Single rail, dual dovetails, picanny rail ...
which is the most solid way of mounting a scope so it doesn't move?

Other than having it machined as part of the receiver or pinned, get a picatinny rail and epoxy it to the receiver. Make sure it meets the Mil 1913 specs or don't buy it.

Almost any well-made steel base/ring system, when properly installed, will hold a scope in place so solidly that an external blow will damage the scope before it moves the mount. I'm yet to see a properly mounted scope move under recoil (the exception being on a spring-powered air gun, which exerts a devilish combination of accelerations on a scope.)

I, too, have contemplated this issue and over the years I have decided that 1 piece mounting systems (bases and rings as one) seem to be the strongest due to the reduced components.

With that said, I like Burris Tactical Picatinny bases and Burris Signature Zee rings with appropriate inserts. Base screws are Purple Loctite glued down.

Having straight ring alignment and lapped rings will likely reduce any issues with scopes moving. Cheap scopes won't likely hold zero regardless of your mounts.

Titanium Gunworks mount made from Titanium...

http://www.titanium-gunworks.c...um-scope-mounts.html

No offence intended, but with those mounts the scope lies quite high over the barrel.

quote:

Originally posted by wildboar:
No offence intended, but with those mounts the scope lies quite high over the barrel.

no problem - not higher then any other european pivot mount like eaw. ali kilic is much higher at all...

There are many more options for Picatinny type mounts, and some Hell for Stout rings for them...look at Smith, Badger Ordinace, Ken Farrel for example. I have seen scopes move in rings several times, and interestingly most of these were in rings that had been lapped, at least two sets which were lapped by a reputable local smith.....I think unless there is a serious misalignment, lapping rings is almost always unnecessary.

I love Talley's and they have a shoulder for the ring to abut against in their bases, and they handle incredible recoil easily, they are vertically split, and I've never seen a set that needed lapping--probably due in part to Talley's vast selection of well done bases for specific rifles. They make lever and screw release QD's rings as well as 'permanent' screw lock rings, and their QD's return to zero very well IME

Good shooting

quote:

Originally posted by Fish30114:
There are many more options for Picatinny type mounts, and some Hell for Stout rings for them...look at Smith, Badger Ordinace, Ken Farrel for example. I have seen scopes move in rings several times, and interestingly most of these were in rings that had been lapped, at least two sets which were lapped by a reputable local smith.....I think unless there is a serious misalignment, lapping rings is almost always unnecessary.

I love Talley's and they have a shoulder for the ring to abut against in their bases, and they handle incredible recoil easily, they are vertically split, and I've never seen a set that needed lapping--probably due in part to Talley's vast selection of well done bases for specific rifles. They make lever and screw release QD's rings as well as 'permanent' screw lock rings, and their QD's return to zero very well IME

Good shooting

I had a scope move in Talley rings. The vertical split just makes it more of a pain to mount. I have a Pic base from Farrel and it is nice, but Badger makes the best I have seen. I love mine. They also have great rings, although I don't own them. The next set I buy for higher recoil rifle will be their max 50 rings. See link and scroll down.
http://www.badgerordinance.com...ctgroup.php?id=rings

I've found the Burris Signature rings are really good. These are the kind with the elliptical inserts that allow adjustment to better get the scope aligned in the rings. The inserts disallow the scope to move because they grip the entire surface of the scope under the rings. In my opinion, the best split-ring system you can buy. Cost is $75-80, plus any applicable tax...

quote:

Originally posted by 338zmag: The vertical split just makes it more of a pain to mount.

That is true. I have never seen a sope move in Talley's if it was installed properly, I've seen a set that a bozo lapped, and tightened the screw improperly that the scope moved in, new rings fixed it instantly.

quote:

Originally posted by Fish30114:
There are many more options for Picatinny type mounts, and some Hell for Stout rings for them...look at Smith, Badger Ordinace, Ken Farrel for example. I have seen scopes move in rings several times, and interestingly most of these were in rings that had been lapped, at least two sets which were lapped by a reputable local smith.....I think unless there is a serious misalignment, lapping rings is almost always unnecessary.

I love Talley's and they have a shoulder for the ring to abut against in their bases, and they handle incredible recoil easily, they are vertically split, and I've never seen a set that needed lapping--probably due in part to Talley's vast selection of well done bases for specific rifles. They make lever and screw release QD's rings as well as 'permanent' screw lock rings, and their QD's return to zero very well IME

Good shooting

I also love Talley's. I use a lot of the one piece aluminum and they are well served by light lapping. I have them on 300RUM and 338RUM and they have yet to budge. Even though my McMillian Adj. cheekpiece ratlted loose and needed to be sent back for re-epoxy job.

I believe the split rings you spoke of are only avail in steel and are considered (like Nightforce, Farrel) as non-lap rings. Meaning they are suppose to be machined with very tight tolerances negating the need to lap.

Duct tape works pretty good, too.

quote:

Originally posted by BISCUT:

quote:

Originally posted by Fish30114:
There are many more options for Picatinny type mounts, and some Hell for Stout rings for them...look at Smith, Badger Ordinace, Ken Farrel for example. I have seen scopes move in rings several times, and interestingly most of these were in rings that had been lapped, at least two sets which were lapped by a reputable local smith.....I think unless there is a serious misalignment, lapping rings is almost always unnecessary.

I love Talley's and they have a shoulder for the ring to abut against in their bases, and they handle incredible recoil easily, they are vertically split, and I've never seen a set that needed lapping--probably due in part to Talley's vast selection of well done bases for specific rifles. They make lever and screw release QD's rings as well as 'permanent' screw lock rings, and their QD's return to zero very well IME

Good shooting

I also love Talley's. I use a lot of the one piece aluminum and they are well served by light lapping. I have them on 300RUM and 338RUM and they have yet to budge. Even though my McMillian Adj. cheekpiece ratlted loose and needed to be sent back for re-epoxy job.

I believe the split rings you spoke of are only avail in steel and are considered (like Nightforce, Farrel) as non-lap rings. Meaning they are suppose to be machined with very tight tolerances negating the need to lap.

You are correct sir!

I really like Talley steel on my sporting rifles.

I first got hooked on Talleys via a Leupold catalog, of all things, a few years ago.

In that catalog, over half the rings and bases on the high dollar custom rifles carrying Leopold glass were......Talleys!!!

I like the Burris Signature Dual Dovetail. The Signature Rings with the inserts hold a scope so well it is hard to rotate the scope without the top halves of the rings installed. Also I have never put any mark on a scope tube with the Burris Signatures. I like the double dovetail because there are no screws to work loose holding the rings to the bases. I have witnessed one rifle shearing the windage adjustable screw grooves off a Leupold windage adustable base twice. Installed a double dovetail and so far so good. I think I would like the tactical rail and rings but haven't put that much money in any yet. I usually get the Leupold bases and Burris Signature rings. I think the scalloped Leupold bases are a little more attractive than Burris' bases.
God Bless, Louis

I really like the functionality of the DNZ (deadnutz) ringmount system. I've got them on a couple of Tikka T3's and have never seen another system lock up a scope so solidly with so little torque on the ring screws.
Not nearly as ugly as they appear in stock pics either.

Here's a pic of them on another guy's Tikka. Scroll down a bit to see Scholling's post:

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php?topic=152430.0

quote:

Originally posted by Fish30114:

quote:

Originally posted by 338zmag: The vertical split just makes it more of a pain to mount.

That is true. I have never seen a sope move in Talley's if it was installed properly, I've seen a set that a bozo lapped, and tightened the screw improperly that the scope moved in, new rings fixed it instantly.

I spoke with Talley at the 2009 Shot Show and then again on the phone with them. I got different info from two different people. I mounted them exactly as they said. Which they said the rings did not need to be lapped. I used my Brownells torque handle to tighten the bases and rings to their specs. When I discussed the problem later with them I was told to use silicone on the inside of the rings. I originally asked them about that or other tricks and they told me just mount them and tighten to our specs. I will never use Talley's again. There are much better products out there. They are no comparison to Badger or NightForce.

Dual Dovetail system is extremely solid, and very affordable compared to Picatinny spec rails (the good ones) and quality tactical scope rings. You still might get movement after spending almost $400...

You seem to be asking for an out of the box solution; there really is none. You don't mention what scope you are using. Scope tube could be (not too likely) but could be out of spec. Maybe you oil your scope finish? Lap your rings as a matter of practice? Most won't need it.

Lots of potentials for scope movement. Degrease your ring bearing surfaces and also your scope tube. Might try a layer of paper or electricians tape, applied to the inside surface of your rings. Maybe even paint the inside surface, just about anything to reduce slippage if your gear is a few ten thousandths over or under.

The most accurate way to mount a scope is by using a boresighter with collimator grid. Get your scope set in the middle range of elevation and windage (count all the clicks to move reticle U/D & L/R and divide by 2). With scope set centered, mount your scope in your mount set and look at the collimator to see where you are relative to the centerlines. Then zero with live ammunition and you are set.

Best scope mount I've ever owned is from Near Mfg. Don't really need "The Best" to mount a scope durably and precisely. If you aren't planning to swap scopes, I would go Leupold Dual Dovetail.