Guys,

Sorry for what may be a really silly question ... but in 40+ years of shooting I've never had to find the center of the adjustment range for a scope.

Have 1.8-5.5 Zeiss Conquest and a 1.5-5 Leupold IR scopes that I'd like to put in the center of the adjustment range to find out how much adjustment is left when the scopes are sighted in on custom bases that I made from bar stock.

Can I simply move the adjustment until it stops (gently) and then count the turns available the other way until it stops and move it back half way?

Any problems with adjusting a scope to the end of its travel? (I'd hate to munch a scope to answer a curiosity.)

Thanks,

You got it! Atleast that's how Leupold says to do it.

til later

That's the only way I know how to do it. It's worked for me everytime.

Ken....

Yes, that's it...

Mike,

You've figured it out.

IME the "Gently does it" routine works best, too.

Depending on the scope the "clicks" may get a bit "fuzzy", suddenly stop or go to contiuous at the limits of the dial movement. You'll know when you've arrived. Trying to get more out of the limit of travel won't help, either.

Most likely one or two clicks at the end of the range aren't gonna make a huge difference in "Top Dead Center".

You can either count each individual click or insert a coin in the slot, or note the position of the dial and count the complete revolutions including the the half & quarter turns of the dial and use half the value as the middle.

The scope will not be doing it's best work at the VERY limits of movement, either. If you end of there; attempting to gain some increased adjustment range with the rings or mounts will often get you a better "purchase" or a few aditional clicks to play with.

Good Luck.

You can also cut a couple of V-notches in a shoe box and set the scope in it, aim a a point on the wall and rotate. Adjust the crosshairs until they don't move off the aiming point.

Also it is supposed to be possible to set the objective end against a mirror and adjust the crosshairs until the shadow image disappears. I haven't tried that but it would seem to me to be a problem to get enough light in there to see the reticle.

Hi Mike,

that´s the way how to do it...!
Good luck!

Klaus