I've got to the point in life were I need a rife with a scope. I had a car wreck a few years ago and lost my left eye. For most of my life I have hunted with a muzzleloader or a old open sighted Marlin 30/30. Before I moved to Wyoming, all the states I lived in had special season for muzzleloaders. So, it seemed I always used open sighted rifles. Anyway, I found a old Ruger 77 with the tang safety for $350.00 and I now need a scope. The rifle has the rings but, I was wanting to know which scope to get for it. Given the cost of the gun and me not knowing alot about scopes. Would a Leupold VX-II be a good start? The gun is in 7 REM mag. I also need to know how to sight it in? How do you sight in a scoped rifle and at what ranges? If at 100 yards one "click" is a 1/4 inch what is it at 25 yards?Any help on scopes or sighting in would be great than you

sorry to here about you accident. I will give some of the info that I have worked out over a few years. Like yourself I cut my teeth on open sights and this will be somewhat of an adjustment, but it sounds like you are unfortunatly used to "adjusting". Your first thought of a Leupy is a good one, there are cheaper and more expensive options out there, but that is a tried and true option. Second will be power, I would stick to a 2x7 with the smaller front (objective) lens. The lower power and lower mount will be closer to what you are used to with irons.
To put it on the gun (with the bolt removed and the gun in a sturdy paded vise), mount the rings on the gun without the scope remove the top of the rings, and then place the scope in the rings with the tops just finger tight. Look through the socpe and make sure it is not canted one way or the other. Now take it out of the vise and hold the gun to your shoulder and look thought the scope. You should NOT have a black ring around the picture. If you do move the scope backwards until it goes away. then back to the vise to finish tightening the rings. Tight is good, death grip is unnessary.
Now we have it mounted and we need to get it close. remove the caps on the adjustment screws and look down the bore. Pick a point on the wall and make the picture in the bore and the picture in the scope the same. this is where you find out how to adjust the scope to make it hit where you want. as you turn the screws it will move the crosshairs to the point of impact you want. So if the cross hairs are above the point you see through the bore adjust the crosshairs down to hit it.

Sight in proceedure is proably even longer than what I have expained above. There are many different proceedures, but now that you have mounted it, and bore sighted it, the proceedure for moving the crosshairs is the same. The nice thing about bore (above)sighting it is you can see your results without any other things involved. So use the same proceedure to sight in at the range that you used to bore sight, and you will be good. Most people use a 3 shot group and adjust to the midle of that group. Once you get to the point that you are happy with the group, check back with us and we will give you some more pointers (point blank range, using a 20 power scope for elephant ,etc.)
As to your question about click adjustments they are multiples in direction, 1/4" click at 100 is 1" at 400(.25"*4) and .0625" at 25(.25/4). Good luck, and if this takes you as long as it did me to learn that ruger will be your best friend by the time you are done and that is half the fun.

The only thing i can add to this is that when you are bore sighting, you fix the barrel on a target and move the reticle to the target. So if the reticle is too far right then you need to click the windage right. It makes sense i promise.

At the range you are fixing the reticle on target and although you still move the reticle, it looks like you move the impact point, so if you are shooting right, you click the windage left. Again, this does make sense, i promise.

I always go the wrong way at first when bore sighting. My reply may save you 20 seconds at best, but at least you'll know what's going on.