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Leupold & .458 Win. Mag.?
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I have a new Winchester Classic Safari in .458 Win. Mag. that needs to be scoped! I'm thinking about Leupold's new VX-lll 1.5-5x20mm Iluminated German#4 dot, with the 30mm tube. In Talley rings. I think the number is 54904, this combination will I believe put the objective lens either directly under or very close to the front ring. Anybody ever have any problems with the lens cracking or breaking? Is there a better option in a scope? I don't like the looks of extension rings or bases that overhang the ejection port

Phil
 
Posts: 1468 | Location: Southern California | Registered: 04 February 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Greyghost:
I have a new Winchester Classic Safari in .458 Win. Mag. that needs to be scoped! I'm thinking about Leupold's new VX-lll 1.5-5x20mm Iluminated German#4 dot, with the 30mm tube. In Talley rings. I think the number is 54904, this combination will I believe put the objective lens either directly under or very close to the front ring. Anybody ever have any problems with the lens cracking or breaking? Is there a better option in a scope? I don't like the looks of extension rings or bases that overhang the ejection port

Phil


I had the same concernes with 2 vz24s 1-458 & 1-376 Steyr. The 376 has a 1.5 x 5 x 20 vxIII the ft. ring is clamped just behind the gold ring no problem w/500+/-rounds? The 458wm has a vxII 1 X 4 X 20 set up the same 400+/- rds no problems. While shooting 500g 458rds I did shear off the #6 base screws. They are now #8's cheers
 
Posts: 2361 | Location: KENAI, ALASKA | Registered: 10 November 2001Reply With Quote
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This problem comes up regularly in the big bore and or Africa hunting sections, and many (I think the last one was a character called RIP)
advise using something like a smear of Silastic inside the front rings and then not excessivly tightening the rings.
No slip and no cracking.
 
Posts: 2355 | Location: Australia | Registered: 14 November 2004Reply With Quote
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It can be problematic to clamp the front ring directly over the front lens. If the rings are a good fit and perfectly round, AND the installer knows what he's doing, then you can get away with it. But it often results in a lens cracking, or loosening from its cement. Use a different combination of rings (offsets) to avoid the problem.
 
Posts: 13248 | Location: Henly, TX, USA | Registered: 04 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I bought the $24 lap kit from Midways (it's as simple as it gets) and then use a very thin coat of rubber cement (the kind with the brush) on the inside of the rings.....grips like a dropped cat.

Gary
 
Posts: 1970 | Location: NE Georgia, USA | Registered: 21 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Sorry...forgot to say that the scope is a VX III 1.5 x 5 and the front ring is right at the gold ring...rifle is a Ruger RSM in 375.

Gary
 
Posts: 1970 | Location: NE Georgia, USA | Registered: 21 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Hello,
It is my understanding that in the directions from Leupold regarding mounting the scope you mention it will state just how and how much torque to apply to the front ring to avoid damaging the front lens. As for the 30mm version Leupold tech rep will tell you that only the body of the 30mm version is larger, not the lens and believe the light gathering, field of view is actually less than the 1" version. Might want to double check with the mfg. on these points, but believe them to be factual based on conversation from individual with knowledge of Leupold. If you do check w/ Leupold, would be good to hear what they tell you. Good Luck
 
Posts: 577 | Registered: 19 February 2006Reply With Quote
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Driver going by Leupold's specs. The 30mm Illuminated version has 10" less adjustment at 100 yards (65 inches verses 75 inches on the 1" tubed version). Light gathering should be the same While the illuminated does have a larger dia. tube, the specs. show it as having a 1" objective dia., and a 1.6" dia. eyepiece. This would suggest to me that the lens and objective cap is the same on both models. Weight difference is quite a bit (9.7 oz. verses 14 oz. on the Illuminated version). My main reason for considering the illuminated version (as both are available with the German 4a)is that the illuminated version while a shorter scope, actually has more maxium ring spacing (5.8 inches on the 30mm Illuminated version verses 5.6 inches on the 1" model).

Originally I had purchased a 1.5-6x42 Nikon Monarch Gold with a 4a reticle for the rifle. It's a 30mm tube also, but it has even less maxium ring spacing at just under 5 inches.

Then again I might just save my money, wait a little longer and get a Schmidt & Bender!

Phil
 
Posts: 1468 | Location: Southern California | Registered: 04 February 2001Reply With Quote
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I just purchased yesterday a Leupold VX II in 1.75 - 6x 32mm. I looked at the 1.5 - 6x 20mm which would provide some size reduction, less weight, and also the reticle you want.

20mm 1.5x provides a wider field of view too, about 65.7 ft. as compared to 51 on the 1.75x.

I opted for the larger objective because we hunt Roosevelt Elk here on the Coast Range in dense woods, often overcast, and we need the light.

Mounted on a 45/70 Ruger Number 1, which I realize is not a 458 magnum.

Anyway -- Leupold has a lifetime, fully transferable warranty. The scope is designed and intended to mount on rifles and shoot. If it doesn't do that, Leupold will replace it or otherwise make it right. That's their policy.
 
Posts: 825 | Registered: 03 October 2006Reply With Quote
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I've had a Leupold VariX-III 1.5 x 5 (1" dia. tube) on a Win M70 416rem for about 10 yrs. The rings/bases are Leupold. It's been shot quite a bit. No problems.

You don't need to tighten the scope rings down real hard. That's what cracks the lens on these straight tube scopes. If you put a little powdered rosin on the inside of the rings the scope will stay put.
 
Posts: 106 | Location: Florida | Registered: 02 February 2005Reply With Quote
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