I ordered a Cz 458 Lott a while back (8 1/2 week wait) with the upgraded wood. I customized it to my liking. Which was to add a forend tip & grip cap, fill the hollow in the bolt handle all with dark walnut. Put a shadow line on the cheek piece, fill the front stud hole, install a barrel band, file of the XXX's on top of barrel, tone down the stampings on receiver & barrel, reblue, & apply a nice satin tung oil finish. I also fabricated a hi-viz front sight out of a shotgun sight. ( for my old eyes!) I smoothed the action & did a trigger job. Now It's ready to go to Africa with a little load development. Pic's below if interested. Regards Mike
Posts: 308 | Location: Central Texas | Registered: 12 September 2003
Mike ..... you did a great job. One question - why didn't you install one or two crossbolts while doing the project ? The reason I'm asking is that I just bought a CZ American 550 in .416 Rigby, and was told by CZ-USA that crossbolts weren't needed with the new American stock, but I'm a little skeptical. What's your thoughts ?
Posts: 1587 | Location: Eleanor, West Virginia (USA) | Registered: 20 April 2002
Quote: Mike ..... you did a great job. One question - why didn't you install one or two crossbolts while doing the project ? The reason I'm asking is that I just bought a CZ American 550 in .416 Rigby, and was told by CZ-USA that crossbolts weren't needed with the new American stock, but I'm a little skeptical. What's your thoughts ?
My gun has 3 recoil lugs & has a very generous clearance around rear of action & trigger guard. I used brownells steel-bed to bed the recoil lugs & feel that it will endure, of course only time will tell. Regards Mike
Posts: 308 | Location: Central Texas | Registered: 12 September 2003
Nice looking, great job! I like the American stock style much better than the hogback.
What is the upgraded wood option? How much? That looks better than the wood I have seen on some high-priced semicustoms.
And BTW, it is still easy to add crossbolts. You would have to re-bed, of course. The B-square jig works great, and Roger Kehr does a very handsome engraving job on them.
Todd
Posts: 1248 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: 14 April 2001
Mike, that was well done! You've turned an ordinary rifle into a work of art. You know that talent like that shouldn't be wasted on only hobbies and maybe you should try it commercially. You make me want to go get a CZ even though I haven't seen a one in a bigbore that I've ever liked.
The only thing that I would consider is cutting off the ugly OEM CZ bolt handle and replacing it with a straight drop Obendorf style handle. That change would give the gun a lot of class.
Posts: 18352 | Location: Salt Lake City, Utah USA | Registered: 20 April 2002
Nice. I have a question that does not relate to your very nice work: I know why a sling stud on the forend is undesirable in a heavy recoiling rifle, and thus know why the barrel band approach is used, but, it seems to me that if one uses the sling while shooting (military style), as I nearly always do, that the barrel stress would effect point of impact. I have contemplated putting the swivel stud on the end of the forend (cap) at about a 45 degree angle, thus getting it out of the way of your hand, but not pulling on the barrel. Your (or anyone's) thoughts on this?
Posts: 747 | Location: Nevada, USA | Registered: 22 May 2003
Quote: Nice. I have a question that does not relate to your very nice work: I know why a sling stud on the forend is undesirable in a heavy recoiling rifle, and thus know why the barrel band approach is used, but, it seems to me that if one uses the sling while shooting (military style), as I nearly always do, that the barrel stress would effect point of impact. I have contemplated putting the swivel stud on the end of the forend (cap) at about a 45 degree angle, thus getting it out of the way of your hand, but not pulling on the barrel. Your (or anyone's) thoughts on this?
Arts,
Check out Brockman's Magnum Sling Swivel Stud for just such an application. Looks classy and isn't that expensive. Don't know how it holds up if there is a forend tip.
Posts: 842 | Location: Anchorage, AK | Registered: 23 January 2004
That's along the lines of what I have in mind. I don't see why a regular stud couldn't be used, just a different location, and a properly attached forend tip should make no difference, as it should be as solid as the original forend.
Posts: 747 | Location: Nevada, USA | Registered: 22 May 2003
Quote: Nice. I have a question that does not relate to your very nice work: I know why a sling stud on the forend is undesirable in a heavy recoiling rifle, and thus know why the barrel band approach is used, but, it seems to me that if one uses the sling while shooting (military style), as I nearly always do, that the barrel stress would effect point of impact. I have contemplated putting the swivel stud on the end of the forend (cap) at about a 45 degree angle, thus getting it out of the way of your hand, but not pulling on the barrel. Your (or anyone's) thoughts on this?
I just like the way the barrel band looks, it looks more like a african rifle with the band, plus it hangs lower on your shoulder & makes it easier to navigate through brush & trees. I am not going to scope this rifle, it is going to be for up close & personal work. So what ever difference the strap hanging down makes on accuracy will be minimal for its intended use.
Regards Mike
Posts: 308 | Location: Central Texas | Registered: 12 September 2003
Quote: Nice looking, great job! I like the American stock style much better than the hogback.
What is the upgraded wood option? How much? That looks better than the wood I have seen on some high-priced semicustoms.
And BTW, it is still easy to add crossbolts. You would have to re-bed, of course. The B-square jig works great, and Roger Kehr does a very handsome engraving job on them.
Todd
The wood upgrade cost approx. $400 extra. Regards Mike
Posts: 308 | Location: Central Texas | Registered: 12 September 2003
