For those of you who have full mounts or mounts where you can measure, what is the measurement from the top of the head(not the horns) to the top of the shoulder (in the perpendicular to the vital area) and/or measurement from the top of the back to the vital area (shoulder or upper heart shot) on the following:

Red Hartebeest
Gemsbok
Springbok
Kudu
Black Wildebeest
Blesbok

I forgot to take any measurements last summer. I hit low on the leg of a hartebeest the first shot and required a follow up shot, he was a long way out and I missed a few times before we could close the gap. Am reloading lighter bullets for my 338 UM, to help with bullet drop and reduce recoil some. Your input would be appreciated. I prefer shooting things close, but things happen in the field that need "sorted out" from time to time.

Try using the search function. I seem to recall a similar question on animal depths about 1 year ago.

While I am sure that this method will give you an indicator for long range shooting at these animals, here is another suggestion:

1. Buy the perfect shot or mini-edition for african animals

2. Practice under field conditions and shoot within your limitations

3. Use a laser rangefinder. By using one and knowing your approximate drop from tables that you'd develop for your handloads, you won't need to know how deep an animal is- though springbok and blesbok are a small target, you can compensate by holding higher 'on hair' on the other animals listed out to ranges of 400+ yards or so. If much further than 500 yards, you'd need to click-in to hit right on as you'd be holding over too much air which increases probability of missing or wounding. The probability of you needing to shoot over 500 yards anywhere in africa, is almost non-existant- unless you want to, on purpose. You'll be able to get within 300 yards of 95% of the game in RSA. Even then, most shots are under 200 yards. Get closer - it also helps to better judge trophy quality from herds of similar looking animals.

4. From point 2, Develop a drop chart for your particular handloads by actually shooting longer ranges under various conditions (hunting, atmospheric, weather). At the very least, the practice under field conditions will make you a better shot and less likely to have the incident that happened to you last summer.

5. Do not drop to a lighter bullet than 225gr. for two reasons-
A. You'll lose b.c. intended to help with truly long range hunting/shooting (400+ yards)
B. You'll lose sectional density often needed on larger plains game at non-ideal angles

6. The .338RUM does have a kick to it, especially in rifles of the non Sendero configuration. Since recoil seems be a factor in your decision, before lowering bullet weights, I would look at:
A. Increasing your rifle weight (barrel, stock change or mercury reducer addition)
B. Swapping out to a better quality recoil pad C. Lowering your powder charge
You'll shoot more accurately with less recoil and even if you lose a few fps, you'll compensate with increased accuracy and/or rangefinder for those truly long shots.

CL

Kurick1,

I would stay with the 225 in a premium bullet...The ultra velocity is not necessary in my opinion...A pachmayr decelerator pad will do wonders and no pain or brusing to you..
I am a ground hog hunter from Pa. and I aim only for heads..Aim small miss small...My plains game rifle was sighted for 3inches high at 100 and it reached way out in a 338, no rum..
I always try to hit just below midline of
animal directly up the leg..The first 300yds are not hard to guess but at 300plus yarda you have time and yes a range finder is a workable tool...But I do not find it necessary 200yd shots...

Mike

Kurick1,
Regarding you inquiry, the distance from the head to back is dependent upon the position of the head. My Smither's gives the following measurements:

gemsbok at the shoulder 1.25 meters, or about four feet.

kudu at the shoulder 1.4 meters, or almost 6 feet

springbok at the shoulder 70cm, or about 30"

Red hartebeest at the shoulder 1.3m or about 4'

black wildebeest at the should 1.2m or just under 4'

Blesbok at the shoulder 95cm or about 36"

The body on most of these animals constitutes half of the height at the shoulders.

You can get wound around the axle on these measurements. By and large, a ph will tell you to shoot 1/3 from the bottom or 2/3 from the top on these animals. Hartebeest and kudu vary slightly because of the body structure.

What you must determine is where the bullet is at a given range relative to your line of sight. I'd agree with sticking with a heavy bullet because the retain their energy better. Get out at shoot somewhere at 300, 350 and 400 yds. It is informative. Kudude

Thanks for the info, I actually did put a Limbsaver pad on my rifle. I haven't tried the mercury recoil reducers yet. It's funny, the recoil on my 375 H&H doesn't bother me at all. But it pushes instead of smacks. Practicing at long range is darn near impossible for me. My gun club, like most clubs in the area has only a 100 yard range and there are very few places in my area of Michigan where I can take long shots to practice. The one mistake I made last summer was not running up to the shooting sticks and trying to shoot with an accellerated heart beat. I've got over 500 rounds through my 338, in various hunting positions and at animal paper targets, but I never accelerated my heart beat before the shots. Running after animals full tilt (my full tilt anyway) and having to shoot was a wake up call.

The BC issue, and this is just a question. The BC on a 300 Win mag 180 gr. bullet is I believe higher than the 338 in a heavier bullet. But most would agree that the 338 is a hard hitter. How much difference would a 40 grain lighter bullet make on the 338 assuming it was at least 185 grains? It makes a difference on bullet drop, but it still has a great deal of energy at ranges to 300-400 yards. I don't want to think that hitting something with some of the premium bullets is like shooting something with a death ray gun, but they do perform better than some of the older designed bullets don't they?

Am trying to decide about booking a buffalo hunt for 2007 or 2008 and also plan on using Barnes bullets, not sure if it would be okay to use a 270 grain X and solid or if the extra 30 grains would benifit in a 300 gr bullet.