You sure you wouldn't rather experiment with .416 diameter bullet? There are a few of us who would gladly take free samples to try out and tell you of the results.

Gentlemen

This is not what W.J. Jeffery & CO. LTD
had in mind back in August 21 1928

Note the death crimp This is possible due to the angel of the grooves.






The steel plate infront of the tips is a anti recoil spring contraption so that the tips do not get deformations under recoil.


Cheers,

Andr�

Andr'e,

If we could just get 23 to 24 hundred fps, keep the long bullet stabalized, it would be fun.

Roger QSL

I like them. I looked at them and thought I would like to have some for the .375. Does anyone make something like this in the .375? Hmmmmmmm, wonder what I could do with Barnes Solids and a drill press. Seriously those bullets look good.

Tried the drill press method on .375 and had stability problem due to ensuring perfectly centered cavities. Next tried a mini-lathe with the bullet spinning and the bit held stationary. Worked better. Now need to try them on game. If you could set this same system up with a drill press, and ensure no collet marks on the bullet, it should work. Just my dumb experiences.
Max

Du er vel nok en dygtig dreng!!!!

Aller kanerne er vilde med dit lir og vil eje det.....

Du ender som v�beneksport�r.....

Philip!!

Jeffery,



I think the idea behind a "Cup Point" is that the HP should not be any deeper than to allow the expanded bullet to expand just past the diameter of the driving bands.



The more RN a configuration you have, the deeper the HP must be to accomplish this.



If you have a very flat meplat like the very early CP of Mikes, than you can actually have no more than a shallow concave HP that is not really even a HP, just a dish shaped depression in the meplat.



What Mike Brady can an does offer customers is a thoroughly tested bullet. I am particularily impressed by how he seals the gas from escaping past the bullet as it enters the "forcing cone" of the barrels throat. I am not too sure your bullet will seal the gas as it enters the throat. You may want to measure the length of your throat and place at least one "driving band" so it will engage this area while the base of the bullet is still in the neck of the cartrige case.



Jeffery, your photographs are beautiful!



Andy

Andr'e,

The picture with the 6 slugs should be framed and signed in the corner by the artist.
If they don't shoot worth a crap, you can always sell the picture at an art show.
How about a 400 grain in 375.

Roger QSL

JefferyDenmark, I had just a couple of email exchanges with the man in Montana, Bridger I believe, about making .429 bullets just as you picture them in your first post. What I was going for was just as pictured in the photos of the expanded cup points later. My plan in this was for a lighter (260 gr or so) bullet that would be used on American game, with expansion from a mono bullet.

I don't think I will ever be able to complete my experiments, hope you do. Step two was to experiment with different metals.

Anyway, good for you, keep it up!

Andre,



For your solids I'd make the front "flat" diameter as large as will feed reliably in your rifle. I'd leave the nose flat for the solids.



If your copper is very soft then machining a cup in the front might get you some expansion - for softs I'd try for a .250 diameter hole that is one third the overall length of the bullet. It will probably open more reliably and penetrate straighter if you cut slight nicks in the top edge of the hollow point in a star or cross pattern to initiate symmetrical tearing of the petals.



I think that you will greatly benefit from having many shallow circumferential grooves on the bearing surface of the bullet. In my experience this dramatically reduces the copper fouling. The grooves should be twice the depth of the rifling, with a 50/50 groove/band pattern. Having each grrove (and each band) be about .060 wide seems to work well in my .416 Rem.



Good luck!

Don_G
The dept of the grooves are 12mm, Bore is 12,7.
My groove is .0595 pretty dam close
I will make the cup as big as possible, I too think that will work best that way.


Roger

Quote:

---

Andr�,

The picture with the 6 slugs should be framed and signed in the corner by the artist.
If they don't shoot worth a crap, you can always sell the picture at an art show.
How about a 400 grain in 375.

---

Thanks
I hope that they will work.
I might do a .375 bullet since I have that calibre myself.
But I do not think that a 400 grn bullet will allow you the room for powder that is needed for a 400 grn bullet to work well.

Cheers,

Andr�

Beauty!

I like the recoil buffer.

Your winters are obviously long and tedious!

Don

Andy

Quote:

---

I think the idea behind a "Cup Point" is that the HP should not be any deeper than to allow the expanded bullet to expand just past the diameter of the driving bands.

---

I agree and would very much like to get just that result.
I want penetration to be deep, through all the way on game < 500 kg.
On buff you never know.
The expansion of the solid cup point should be controled by speed and diameter and pepth of the cup.

I hope that my bullets will seal wellm in the barrel
But I have problems with just that when I use the Impala bullets. When I use N140. So next time I will use N135.
The home-made bullets are loaded with 118 grn N 140

Cheers,

Andr�

Andre,



On sealing: Since you are custom turning these bullets you could make the bottom and top bands just slightly overbore. That would help the seal.



I see you have a taper to make starting the bullets into the case easier. I think a short straight bottom section of bore diameter (bottom edge chamfered), with a square step to groove diameter (maybe .001 over, as above) would work fine and help ensure a seal. Some GS customs I have do that, and it works very well indeed to align the bullet into the case perfectly, and they seal well. Then a slight chamfer of the case mouth allows the square step to slide into the case easily. If the bullet is soft the square band will be pushed forward and out by gas pressure better than the straight taper. To my eye the straight taper would tend to feed the gasses forward - but it probably wouldn't and the other bands are there to seal it anyway.



As you can see, I'm an anal retentive engineer!