I was wondering how had many problems loading solids and softpoints for hunting..Especially to get each to hit the same point of impact... From a bolt action...rifle

How do the Bridger solids pattern also...



Mike

If I can get a 2" group at 100 yards with Softs & Solids its O K to me. What does some one else think?

Its not that hard in most rifles...about 1 to 2 grs reduction in the soft point load will get a solid on POI...

If the gun won't do that, then just use the Bridger flat nose solid as they kill as well as a softpoint...I use only flat nose solids unless I am testing bullets for someone...

but this is something that most Americans just cannot bring themselves to deal with as they were wet nursed and brain washed by gun scribes who never used a solid but verbalized greatly on there use, O'connor being the mother of solid bashing, although he never used them, he preached that only softs are a viable option for shooting big game..

The African hunter has been using them for years with 100% sucess, particularly the old timers....

I love them and they have worked for me 110%

I can get the solids and softs to shoot into pretty much the same hole at 100 yards with my Sako M75 375H&H and my Ruger 416 Rigby. With the Sako, the solids take 1 more grain of the same powder. With the Rigby it is the same load for the softs and solids.

Tim

Boha has taught me that most big bore bullets work best at speeds around 750 m/s and it�s my expirience that this also holds true for precision. I haven�t yet loaded solids but I�d take Atkinson�s advice on that.

I have never experienced much difference in POI, so I have not worried about it, but I would suggest just using the Bridger solids, especially for anything over 400 lbs., then you can just take one type of ammo on your trip. If you take softs and solids, you will always want the type that is not in your rifle at the moment.

I would like a premium 250grain flat nosed solid in 338 Win mag.

I use soft points for all my hunting. The solid is a VERY SPECIALIZED bullet designed for thick skinned / thick skulled animals. Examples for solids are elephant, rhino, hippo. To be more specific, I hunt with solids, only those animals, which it is not legal to hunt with anything but a solid.

Shooting buffalo with solids is why you hear tales of "it taking 11 shots from a 470 NE to bring a buff down". It takes 11 shots from a 243 shooting Nosler partitions to bring down a buffalo too (do they make Nosler partitions for the 243???). It typically only takes 1 or 2 well aimed shots to bring down a buffalo with a big bore, shooting soft points!

Scott

Mike; I've been fortunate with my solid/soft combos. I've used them both in 375 H&H and with my Ruger 416 Rigby. In both cases, they shoot pretty close to POI. The Ruger is particularly accomodating in that it shoots 400gr Swift A Frames 1" high @ 100 and the solids print exactly dead on at 100, giving me an exact 1" group. For Buffalo, I load one soft (A Frame) first, followed by the Hornady solids. With the A Frame, I can easily shoot large plains game comfortably out to 250 and the solids for 100 yards to Up close and personal!" jorge

I couldnt tell the differance on the target between the barnes super solids and barnes x-bullets. the x bullet i put in my buffalo looks like it should be in a barnes add. i think nickudu told me this was the way to go. i can say for my case he was right.

ps as an added benifit I got the x bullets quite a bit cheaper than the solids so thats what i practiced with.

Dean

Have had no problems loading solids/softs to shoot to same point. Have loaded for 9.3x74,375 H&H,416 Rigby and 470NE for years. Would not reccommend solids only unless you are a superb shot. Would use only solid on Elephant, as Buff succumb quite well to softs. Have never shot Rhino or Hippo so can't comment on those two.