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Best scope for hunting leopard from a blind - be specific
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tendrams, you might be surprised about that weight difference.

Take a look at the Zeiss Victory HT 2.5-10x50 illuminated reticle scope which is one of my favourites - http://sportsoptics.zeiss.com/...ht.html#inpagetabs-3

Then compare it with the Leupold VX-R 3-90x50 - http://leupold.com/hunting-sho...0mm-includes-metric/

The weight difference between these two is precisely 69 grams or 2.4 ounces which by no stretch of the imagination makes the Zeiss "ridiculously unwieldy and heavy European glass". It is more expensive. A lot more expensive, so there's no doubting the Leupold offers better value.

But that's where it stops for me. Optically the Zeiss isn't just a little better, it's in a different league, especially in low-light. It also has a wider zoom range, constant eye relief throughout that range and better finish.

I recently took delivery of a new Leupold VX-R 2-7x33 and was shocked at its performance in low-light situations. It's still in the box unused.

The whole European vs American scope question can be summed up very simply. European scopes are generally far superior optically but you do pay a substantial premium for that. Personally, I'm happy to pay that price.
 
Posts: 242 | Registered: 06 May 2012Reply With Quote
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The biggest variable may be your own eyes. A young person pupils may be able to dialate to 7MM where as some one over 40 may only be able to dialate to 5mm or older 4mm. In essence you eyes cannot accept more light than your pupil opening.
I suspect my eyes may open to 5mm. A 7 mm capable scope is overkill for me. A staight 10X50 would max out what my eyes can receive.
You can take a 1X6X24 and set on on 5X and about achieve a 5MM exit pupil. Within 100 yards on a big animal there is little reason to have more scope.
If you are young and have great eyes and shooting a leopard at 60 yards, get a good quailty scope say 10X50 and put it on 7X or a 10X42 and put it on 6X and you will get as much light as you eyes can receive and if you want an illuminated reticle there are many that offer it. It would be great for other hunting tasks as well.
Glass does make a difference as well..
Basically if you are a little older you are screwed from the get go! Frowner
 
Posts: 3256 | Location: Texas | Registered: 06 January 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Duckear:
quote:
Originally posted by jorge:
quote:
Originally posted by stomper:
sorry to beat a dead horse but I think what he may be asking is which scopes appear brighter in low light. and yes ALL scopes "gather" light. They do so via their aperature. If you build a radar and use it to make pictures you do so via methods of Synthetic Aperature Radar. that's where the velocity of the plane is used as the aperature to make more radiation available for capture. The more radiation the higher quality your image is. this is how israli f16's will fly in Israeli air space and paint pictures of the neighboring countries and then use the SAR to relay coordinates to the onboard jdam in order to deliver the payload to the front door. we put the same design into the UAE's block 70 f'16's that we sent them but those were fixed aperature radar which was a whole new beast. I could get into the f22 stealth raptor radar but that one is really complicated and not up for discussion. If you simplify all this down to a scope the aperature of a scope is its objective diameter. the larger the diameter the more light that gets in. the more light that gets in the brighter your image appears. Saeed is right in that you can't amplify light without night optics but the larger your objective diameter the more light you are able to use which allows you to see better in low light scenes. So if you plan on magnifying the picture you need a lens diameter exponentially increasing with your power magnification. basically the picture in swaros appear brighter because you are able to see at 100 yards with the clarity you can see with your own eyes at 10 yards. Most optics cant focus light well enough to have useful zoom powers due to poor lens structures. So your definition of "light gathering" is what is at question here. However for an optics guy the whole ball game is built around "light gathering" the real trick is to be able to operate at the 3db point which is where your optics are able to pull useful information out of complete noise. Some scientists are getting quite good at this.


WRONG. To "gather" is to actively execute a function and a scope doesn't go out and "gather" light you for example "gather" flowers. Scopes ALLOW (passively) the transmission of light first through their objective lenses, through the tube, ocular lens through your pupil, optic nerve, brain etc. No gathering involved, just transmission.



Quick, call Zeiss!!!!!

http://www.zeiss.com/de/bino/g...9/Index/?ReadForm&71


quote:
Geometric light gathering power
Geometric light gathering power is a measure of the image brightness provided. It is calculated as the "square of the exit pupil". For instance, a 10x40 binocular has a geometric light gathering power of 16 - the minimum figure for sufficient image brightness in twilight - and a 8x56 binocular a figure of 49. A comparison: An 8x30 binocular has a geometric light gathering power of 14.1 and thus is less suitable for viewing in twilight.
Note: The geometric light gathering power is only one parameter among many, it does not say anything about the image quality which is a determining factor in image brightness!



Zeiss is wrong as well or at least their capture of english and terminology. Gathering is not a passive word.


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Posts: 7151 | Location: Orange Park, Florida. USA | Registered: 22 March 2001Reply With Quote
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