Posted April 13, 2009 8:13 PM
El tusks from
Dec Zim hunt due in New York anytime.
I need recomendations for some one to put thes on wood bases. Eastern 2/3 of USA.
I haven't had any w3ork done in USA since '80

Thanks,

Have a look at the bronze bases here:
http://www.scottlennard.com/

Thanks, but not my cup of tea

I know that your looking for the eastern 2/3rds, but Atcheson Taxidermy in Bozeman (/) Montana made a nice set of teak bases for me.

If you want more info, shoot me a PM.

JPK

True-Life Taxidermy / www.truelifetaxidermy.com
Middletown, NY
845-733-1313

JPK

Butte for Atcheson's Taxidermy. They do my work and did a set of metal bases for me. $600 all in.

Look at the guys at The Wildlife Gallert in MI.
Great folks, super turnaround, and they are happy to email pic's of various mounting styles for your ivory.
www.TheWildlifeGallery.com
or call Dan at 989-561-5369

quote:

Originally posted by Dave Fulson:
Look at the guys at The Wildlife Gallert in MI.
Great folks, super turnaround, and they are happy to email pic's of various mounting styles for your ivory.
www.TheWildlifeGallery.com
or call Dan at 989-561-5369

Nice looking teak(?) bases under bases and mounts on their website.

JPK

Check out Wess Good
http://www.wildlifestudios.com/

the site is under construction but call Wess as he does great wrok

Thanks guys, but I guess most of them have too much work to answer an email. Only two took the time.

Thanks again

I've tried to post a few photos of showing steps to build some walnut bases. Had no problem posting photos the past time I tried but somethings sure not working now. ???

If someone can tell me what I'm doing wrong, or volunteer to post the pictures, these might give you an idea.

Thanks,
Emory

Well, guess you have to hit post then see them on the receiving end... Here are a couple of progress pictures:

These are cobbled up pieces of walnut. Bases 2 and 3 pieces and both uprights 3 each. All the internal dowling done to hopefully not surface.

Getting closer to shape on the uprights.

Bottom view of the solid base. Recessed plate allows fitting over a bolt in the floor to minimize tipping. It hides a 10" lage bolt that ties into the up right.

Fit is such that that the nerve cavity slides down easily enough yet won't turn. I reinforced the inside of the edge with glass tape and epoxy. Balence is good enough with the heavy bases., I haven't worried about the anchor bolt in a low traffic area.

quote:

Originally posted by AfricanHunter:
Thanks guys, but I guess most of them have too much work to answer an email. Only two took the time. Thanks again

Leroy, I was talking to Wes Good today coordinating a deliver of a few mounts, and he said he replied ASAP. He does outstanding work, as do the craftsmen that do his woodworking. I'll email you a few pict's of the ones he mounted per my specific requests. Regards, Bill

Emory - they look great!

Emory,
I really like that idea. That is terrific work, way beyond my skill level or patience.

People don't realize how awkward, heavy and relatively fragile tusks are to work with.

I've posted this several times but this is what I did with mine.




I've done a little work on them since the photos. The drawer in the table still works and the table design keeps them safe from tipping over in a child attack or earthquake.

Kyler

Kyler,

I actually thought about your table idea - that makes real good use of space and your tusks look great aginst that dark wood! In the interest of time (a couple of weekends from the time I picked the tusks up) went with the solid bases. You make a real good point about how fragile the tusks are, especially the thin edges. I fit mine close, but loose enough to not worry about wood swelling and cracking the tusks. The loads are basically picked up by the reinforced rim of each edge. Makes them easier to slip off and move also.

Emory

Emory

Emory and Kyler, Very nice work.