Ray

Quote:

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A steel insert in the base will serve no purpose

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I was not planning to do this
550 grn at 2300 fps should do the trick on most game

I do not want to make an copy of GS bullets or North Fork.
North Fork Bullets are not made for the 510 cal.
And my bullets have one great advantage they are free
And making/designing then are way too much fun.
I can also use the best material available without thinking about cost production. That is one major advantage.
It also takes extra time to do the Square hole on the expanding bullet. But since I am not making a thousand it is ok.

I do think that you are right about the cup and I will make it 8-9 mm in diameter. The first design is 6,3 mm.

Just how deep should the cup be ? I have never seen a cup point solid before just heard about here on AR.

I did take some advise from Gerard regarding the Grooves.
The bullet does not have drivebands like GS custom bullets have.
They have Grooves like the impala bullet.

The front part of the Cup point solid ( from last groove to tip) are .05 mm more then bore diameter 12,75 mm and the Grooves are 12,90. This is hard to spot with the eye

Cheers,

Andr�

Jeffery,
Thats some really pretty stuff you putting out...I will try to photograph some cup points and send them to you via email, as I cannot post pics on AR...

Dear Ray

Thank you very much for the pictures and the kind words about the bullets.
They are a great help I now know what qualities the bullet should process.

These are the North Fork cup point solids pictures that Ray sent me.





Cheers,

Andr�

Gentlemen

I am working on making a Cop Point Solid for my .500 Jeffery.
This is my first run.
What do you think any input is more then welcome.

These bullets have a boat tail the next design will not.
Might ad one or two more grooves.
Weight is more then 500 grn sorry I only have a 505 from RCBS I would think 540 or 550 grn.
Should I make the cup bigger in diameter ? Or deeper ?shallower ?



Cheers,

Andr�

Ray

I would very much like to see the NF bullets and I have asked members to post a picture of them but no luck.
NF do not have a picture of the Cup point bullet on their site.

I based the grooves on info from Gerard from GS.
This is what he wrote:

Quote:

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Grooved bullet - A normal profile bullet with grooves cut into the shank. The ogive meets the shank at a diameter equal to the groove diameter of the barrel. Grooves in the bullet shaft are cut to a depth that that bears no relationship to the bore diameter of the barrel. The total grooved area is less than the total remaining shaft area.

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My grooves have a Diameter of 12,00 mm and more then 50% are cut away.

You are probably right about the cup and I will change them on the next bullet. I only made 2 solids I will shoot one and save the other.

The square hole I am talking about are on my Expanding bullets (I hope that they will expand )

They look like this.


The NO 3 design of the Expanding bullet is second from the right.


I really appreciate that you are giving me input that is why I post.

Most pro bullet smiths are not so helpful they probably think that I will produce.

Gerard from GC custom have been very helpful and kind.

I would just like to make my own bullet and give it a cool name.

Cheers,

Andr�

Andre,
didn't mean for you to buy Northforks, you need one to see how they are made, save you a world of testing...they have a round hole, the depth and width and angle of that hole is critical to performance...the bullet you display will hardly expand at all IMO, more likely just shear off the front portion...The hole is not square, it round BTW....and the bands you have look like the wrong depth and width to me...Maybe you should discuss this with Mike at North Fork.

Hey man.....I'm impressed.....now do the following:
1. make them 400 grains in .423 diameter for us .404 Jeffery fans

2. Hollow the back end and loktite in a .350 Diameter hardened steel insert that is pointed intended to penetrate after the copper jacket has peeled back

3. The back end of the jacket needs to be crimped over the rear of the insert so none of it is exposed and will not be allowed to separate from the jacket.

hey....just trying to be helpful.

What bases have you made your ogive on? I would start with an elipsis of 1/2 calibers in length. The "cup" should'nt approach 180deg with the axis and should be 75-85% in diameter of the bullets major diameter.

Vopadog Wink and smallfry

Sorry no .416 or 404 Jeffery yet.

I might make some in .375 if they work well since I have a rifle that cal.

Thank you for all the great advise.

Cheers,

Andr�

The nose needs to be truncated not round and the cup needs to be much wider and a bit deeper...A steel incert in the base will serve no purpose...Keep in mind that it will only expand to the end of the cup point hole..

Save yourself a lot of experimentation and buy a box of GS Customs flat nose bullets and cut the hollow point in them, or use them as a pattern..Or get a cup point bullet from North Fork and copy it....

Of more importance is the depth and width of the driving bands...