Just picked up a new M1A. Can I dry fire her. The manual does not say one way or another.

Thank you all in advance.

Model loaded SS barrel with walnut stalk.

When the M1A was heavily used in High Power/XC matches shooters dry fired them a lot to practice on their off hand shooting; however, the newer SAI M1A's likely do not have true GI parts but rather commercial remakes and they are not a stout as the GI parts, hammer, etc., etc. If by chance you break something while dry firing or live firing replace with genuine GI parts such as hammer, trigger hooks, firing pin, etc. To test the rifles accuracy potential would suggest you buy a box of Federal Gold Medal Match ammo in 168 or 175 bullet and if all is good to go probably will give some 2moa for 5 shot group at 100yds. If it produces smaller groups, good for you.

Thank you Instructor. I can't shoot 2 moa anyway, so I would be proud to get 2 moa.

I am a child of the 3 shot group anyway. I appreciate the advice.

Congrats on your new rifle. I have the SuperMatch and Scout version of the M1A.
Fulton Armory makes a dry fire devise for the M1A.
M1A Dry Fire Devise

Can't beat 12 bucks for peace of mind thank you all. Hopefully, do some shooting this weekend and post targets.

The dry firing "no-no" typically applies to rimfire cartridges. Reason being that the rimfire firing pin is designed to strike the brass backed up by the receiver (or barrel) steel. If you dry fire these, the firing pin will impact the steel and probably damage the end of the firing pin. That doesn't happen with center fire weapons.

Rifles etc that fire center fire cartridges have firing pins that impact the primer, backed up by the brass of the cartridge.
In general, any center fire weapon should be capable of dry firing with no resulting damage.

You can dry fire the heck out of it. I have plenty! I prefer the the .308 over the 5.56, didn't mind the extra weight of the ammo load. The .308 does it two times plus quicker than the 5.56.

No, many centrefire weapons should NOT be dry fired without snap caps.

Usually those, like Webley revolvers, where the "blow" isn't then stopped by the cartridge primer but by the hammer or striker instead hitting part of the frame or action or bolt internals.

Webleys don't like it because the hammer strikes the back of the frame which it would not do if a cartridge or snap cap were inserted.

I also seen the tips of Mauser cocking pieces snap off for the same reason. The nose of it hitting the back of the bolt.

quote:

Originally posted by LHeym500:
Just picked up a new M1A. Can I dry fire her. The manual does not say one way or another.

Thank you all in advance.

Model loaded SS barrel with walnut stalk.

Buy extra firing pins and dry fire all you want. I earned a Regional Gold and my Distinguished Rifleman Badge with an M1a. This was back in the day when leg points were only earned by shooting across the course. The original M1 Garand firing pin had a round cross section but it is evident that slamfires occurred.



Later Garand firing pins were scalloped in the middle to reduce weight. Therefore they are weaker in the mid section. This practice carried on to the M14, the firing pins are thin in the middle. What will happen, in time, is that the firing pin will brake on the tang or in the middle. I have had that happen to me, on Garands. Can't recall it happening to me with my M1a, but I purchased extra firing pins just in case.

Guys, what kind of accuracy can one expect from a regular modern Springfield M1? I'd like to play with one, but never have.

On average the standard will give you 2" to 2.5" groups at 100 yards with quality ammo.
You can improve on this by simply unitizing the gas cylinder and bedding the stock.

Good enough for fun shooting.

M1A's of current mfg. are not of the quality that they were some decade or two ago for they do not use GI parts, components, as they once did. Reason is simply that they are somewhat scarce these days and more expensive which would drive the retail price upwards. If the rifle is just for casual plinking should do fine but if a "go to" rifle either go with Fulton, Bula, or LRB M14SA for they are of quality build and do use mostly GI parts for their builds. BULA is now mfg. various if not all parts to GI original specs and LRB uses GI parts as well as Fulton. Bula and LRB builds their rifles from forged receivers and SAI and Fulton still use an investment casting for their receivers. A Bula build or LRB will be some $1000.00 higher than the SAI basic version but they are of highest quality and durability I might add. SAI has a lifetime warranty but if you have to send the rifle back for issues on a regular basis from new that is some comfort, but for me a rifle should come ready to go out of the box and no issues for a very long time.

for biebs 3" is benchrest quality - usually he keeps them within 3 meters at 50 ft

That's minute of Mossberg :-)