I've got my Springfield Amory M1A in 308 in its 10 day waiting period.

I'm thinking about using it for deer and pigs here in CA. Any thoughts on powder choice for 150 gr bullets so that it cycles and shoots well?

Most of the 308/7.62 M1a shooters that I talk with are using IMR 4064, 168 grain, Winchester primers Federal, Winchester brass.
These guys are shooting at paper.
I use the same basic component list for my AR10t.

Jim

The load suggested by earlier poster worked well in my M1A for several years. Mostly on paper, but did take a large boar with the load and caught him in the shoulder quartering away and dropped him straight down without a quiver.
Destroyed the heart toally. These bullets are not suggested for hunting purposes, but they do a lot of damage. Only found fragments of the bullet and we figured it just exploded upon resistance by body mass. If it had hit bone, would not have been so fortunate I fear. In short, would not suggest their use for hunting purposes.

Unless you're measuring groups down to the last thousandth, the 165 Sierra boat tail hunting bullets will shoot just as good as the MK's with the same load and perform much better on game.

308 isn't fussy on powders choices. H335, 4985, 3031 etc. i'll nosler partitions on game, but 150 gr ballistic tips for everything else

With 150gr bullets try 42gr of IMR 3031.

With 165/168gr bullets try 39.5gr of IMR 3031.

quote:

Originally posted by butchloc:
308 isn't fussy on powders choices. H335, 4985, 3031 etc. i'll nosler partitions on game, but 150 gr ballistic tips for everything else

While this may be true in a bolt action .308, you have to be careful with the M1 Garand / M14 / M1A family of rifles. If you use the wrong powder or bullet weight you can damage or destroy the op-rod. Also, bullets with exposed lead tips should not be used as it is possible the lead can be shaved off while feeding the rounds and get caught up in the action and cause a misfire or failure to feed. These things are not usually problems if you are aware of them and load correctly for the rifle with appropriate components.

I agree with NE 450 No2, regarding the 39.5gr of IMR3031 and the 165gr bullet, although my M1A likes 42.5gr of IMR4064 with the 165 gr better.

My advice:

Small base size your cases.

Do not attempt to small base size cases with spray on lubes. You will get a stuck case. I use RCBS water soluble or Imperial Sizing wax.

Set up your sizing dies with a Wilson type cartridge headspace gage. Size to gage minimum. You do not want any delay to bolt closure due to over long cases. This and primer sensitivity are very, very, important safety considerations.





Trim your cases to 2.000” (or less, but two inches is easy to remember) after sizing. I always trim my cases between each firing, but I have a Gracey trimmer. Takes less time to trim than to measure the cases.

I highly recommend reaming your pockets to depth. Prime your brass with a hand held tool and always check to see that the primer is below the case head. No high primers! This is a safety issue in semi auto’s.

I recommend CCI #34 primers. They are the least sensitive primers out there. You do not want to use any primer that is “more sensitive”. Do not use Federals. When friends have discussed their slamfires, and mine (!) federals were the primers involved in all of our slamfires in M1 Garands or M1a’s.

The M14 was designed with IMR 4895 as the propellant. I recommend IMR 4895, AA2495, or H4895. These powders shoot exceptionally well and give appropriate port pressures. If you have to have a ball powder, AA2520 used to be very popular with M1a match shooters.

I seat all bullets to less than 2.800”. Currently I am seating all my 168’s to 2.75”. I did load up some 150 FMJ’s, and they shot well at 2.75”. Bullets vary in length, so make sure none are longer than 2.800” or you will have troubles getting some in the magazine.

My match ammo, out to 300 yards is a 168 SMK/Nosler/Hornady Match, 41.0 grains IMR 4895/AA2494/H4895 LC cases CCI#34. OAL LT 2.800"

At long range I will bump up the charge to 41.5 grains with a 168.

Maybe some super duper shooter can tell the difference on target between a Sierra Match king, a Nosler Match, or a Hornady match, but in my hands and my rifles, they all shoot very well. I buy what is cheapest.

I have no doubt a good 165 grain bullet is a better hunting bullet than any match bullet.

For 150 grain bullets, keep your velocities just at 2700 fps. Do not try to load bullets to 2800 or 2900 fps. That will be too hot for your M1a.

I found that 43-43.5 grains AA2520 with a 150 Hornady FMJ to give good accuracy and acceptable velocities.

41.5 IMR 4895, std. rifle primer, 165 Sierra JHP. Keep the cases properly trimmed and definitely use the small base die.

Well, I got my rifle and am starting to have some fun with it.

I bought a 200 round case of Winchester's USA brand 7.62 with the 147 gr FMJ. It has a WCC and 08 headstamp.

I've heard folks talk about using 'military' brass and how its thicker and caution should be used. So is this what I have?

I have generated 40 or so rounds of this brass and lubed some with sizing wax and had a HELL of a time sizing them in my Hornady 308 dies. After sizing they needed some serious trimming. The Federal 210M primers didn't quite go in very smoothly either.

Thanks for any help.

CH

Put a magnet to those bullets and see if they have "steel" jackets.

I have a PDF file thats quite long on loading for the match M1A1, what powders to use and why. can't figure out how to attach it but if you PM me with an e-mail address I'ld be more than happy to send it to you

quote:

Originally posted by N E 450 No2:
CH

Put a magnet to those bullets and see if they have "steel" jackets.

Yep, a magnet sticks to these projectiles. So this is military ammo made by Winchester? Is this brass really worth messing with, or just plinking and tossing?

I don't plan on being a high volume shooter with this. Just want to shoot deer and pigs here in CA and sometimes put the hurt on the jack rabbits for laughs.

I really enjoy reloading and would like ti see if this rifle will shoot tight groups.

CH

Nothing wrong with the brass or the loads from Winchester.

Nothing wrong with the steel jacketed bullets, they have been used in M80 ammo for the M14 since at least 1968.

On another thread on this forum the existance of steel jacketed M80 ammo was questioned.

Some might say I ruined my rifle, but I mounted a scope on it the other day.

Had the first brief session yesterday. At 50 yds, the factory ammo shoots about 4". 43 grains of IMR 4064 and 150 balistic tip shot about 1.5".

I think we're getting somewhere.

CH

What scope did you put on it?
What mount did you use?

Most of the M14's currently in use in the Sandbox have scopes on them...

Heck, I even scope a Double Rifle...

I bought a base from Midway USA that's called a Pro Mag. A pretty basic aftermarket thing that is parkerized of decent quality. Cost about $90. I'm a big Burris guy from way back so when the Cabelas bargain cave was offering a fullfield II in 3x9x40 for $179 it was a no brainer for me. Lifetime warranty and a nice looking piece.

I've got quite a few burris products on things from 7mm-08 to .375 H&H.

Probably gonna try Varget next.

Nothing faster then 4895
nothing slower than 4064

Look up an article or two on the internet that talks about port pressure.

lawndart
Good advice, However, see my post above about IMR 3031 loads. Give them a try.

I have shot a "few" thousand of them...

I've found Win. 748 to be ideal in mine with bulloets from 147 to 168 grns. My favorite load with 147/150 grn. bullets is 46.8 grns., standard primer, mil. cases. Being a ball powder, it also meters so much better.

Best of luck with your new M1A!

George