Doing a search turned up this forum as the only one that even touched on this subject. I want to upgrade to a Stack-on, Browning, Remington type safe like you see in Gander Mountain, Bass Pro or Cabela's. If nothing else the fire resistance would be nice. My "collection" is mostly just what I use and doesn't justify custom building a room in my house but does justify going above a storage type cabinet (Stack-on, Homark type). All of the big safes seem to offer an electronic lock for just a little more than the manual dial. Between the two which is better? I guess on the manual side I'm afraid it may be easily defeated with a stethyscope but since that's not my line of work I don't know. The electronic one I'm afraid of it's reliability and durability. Maybe it's easily defeated too. I'm thinking of going with a 30-60 gun model for added storage so I don't really want to have to move it again to get the lock fixed.

I know a pro could crack these with ease. I'm taking the calculated risk that a pro is going to a better home than mine. Dirt-bags have come to my friends houses before and may come to mine. I haven't seen them get into a big safe. They do get into the cabinets even though it does slow them down some. I'm hoping this will slow them down enough.

I've had a Ft Knox safe for the last 6 years or so with an electronic lock and have had no trouble at all. It holds 2 9 volt batteries (it only needs 1 but has room for 2 in parallel) and I replaced them for the first time this summer!

I really like the lock, as you can just push some buttons which you can do when your hands are full or it is dark. Also, it takes a fraction of the time so if you screw up you can do try it again right away. Perhaps if I were to have a safe infrequently used, or in a humid environment I'd go with a manual lock but if you use it every day you will really appreciate the convenience of the electronic lock.

I have safes with both types. The electronic is much faster to open but not as durable. If I were buying another safe it would be one made by Champion and it would have the manual lock.

With regards the electronic locks, what happens if the battery goes completely flat or an electronic fault develops? Is there a manual over ride of some sort to get into the safe?

I have no experience with manual combo lock. My Browning gun vault door has a Sargent & Greenleaf model 6120 electronic which uses 2 9V transistor batteries but it will work with just one.

I've never had any problems in 5 years.

Electronic locks have advantages you might not know about: (whether that means anything to you is another thing)

1. You can program a time delay of up to 9 minutes.
2. If four incorrect codes are entered in a row--like a thief trying your birthdate--the lock will shut down for up to 15 minutes.
3. This lock does not have 'audit traiil capabilities...that is, no smart electronics type geek can decode what numbers you've been entering to unlock the safe.

Also, it will automatically relock upon closing the safe door. Along with the master code, up to 8 user codes can be programmed to open the safe. So if you allow someone else entrance, they can be denied entrance just by removing their user code. Might be good if an employee is fired--no need to change the master code or other employee codes.


No gym locker type lock can do that.

A safe technician will be needed for major malfunctions on either type lock.

With regards to the electronic lock...for mine you have to take the dial assembly apart and there is a hole with the crazyest looking key I ever saw.....

A great link if you are buying a new safe:

http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsafes.html

Basically, safes dont have tumblers.
A person who knows how to open a safe will not care whether you have an electronic or manual lock.
The lock is there to slow down experienced crooks and usually stop the amateurs.
If you invest in a more exensive safe, you will get one with what are called "relockers" that are tripped when someone tries to defeat the door lock.

Unless the safe is built into the structure so that the walls and top of the safe are not exposed, only an idiot would attempt to defeat the lock or otherwise go in through the door. Rather, a theif can simply cut (with a 7" circular cut-off saw/grinder) a neat hole in the relatively thin 10 guage (premium) or 12 guage (standard) metal of the safe's skin. You have handily provided a 120VAC outlet, so all the theif has to do is bring his $30 saw from Harbor Freight and tool. Cutting a hole large enough to remove the safe's contents will take even a poorly-skilled operator about two to three minutes, provided he starts with a fresh blade and not one worn down from his last job.

The tumbler lock is slow and much less handy for you to use. If you like to access your guns frequently, as I do, then do yourself a favor and get the electronic pad. The battery access is on the outside, so all you have to do for a dead battery is open the little access plate and replace it. Mine lasted four years before the low battery signal went off.

Just got a new safe, went w/manual lock....guy said he makes $40.00 on each electronic lock but doesn't recommend them. Life time warranty on manuel and a few years on electronic

Swithched back to manual lock after electronic keepad was broken by accident, not very durable......That wasnt cheap!