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I feel like I just received a lot of valuable insight, grattis.

Thank you gents!


Tim


0351 USMC
 
Posts: 1541 | Location: Romance, Missouri | Registered: 04 March 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The stock blank that Duane is using was unusual even for me. Never happened to me before, the wood was hard and dense, other stock makers that have used blanks from the same tree have not experienced such issues, they were all using hand tools when checkering. Perhaps it was the method of checking that he was using?, Perhaps it was the electric checking?, I'm not sure. Duane has worked on a blank from the same tree for a client and didn't have any issues with the checkering.
 
Posts: 67 | Location: Australia | Registered: 07 May 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by JBrown:
quote:
Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):

If anyone has found a sure fire way to nail down that fuzz, sure would like to hear it..




Chic Worthing always recommended super glue for checkering fuzzy wood.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...631068731#8631068731


I wonder if nitrocellulose lacquer used by guitar builders would help? They make thinners for it. If there is a guitar luthier in your area you could probably talk them out of an ounce or two to try it out.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthie...lose-guitar-lacquer/
 
Posts: 529 | Location: Baltimore, MD | Registered: 21 July 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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One thing that has helped for me is switching from the usual file-type hand cutters to the scraper style. Doesn't always work though.

Here's an extremely thin CA glue: https://www.woodcraft.com/prod...ALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I usually put a drop on a scrap piece and then transfer it to whatever I need stuck with a toothpick. If you go direct from bottle to stock you may end up with a WHOLE lot more than you intend.

quote:
Originally posted by Timan:
I've ran into this a few times as well and could not really nail down a cure for it other than to work the fuzz off with a hand tool.

However, in looking at this one thing becomes apparent to me.
The rotary tool is designed to be pulled thru the cut line per line.
This would dictate that the cut starts at the root of the line and the material is pulled to the surface and ejected as cut material.
The problem: not all material is cleanly released leaving what essentially is a burr.
Just like an endmill that rotates off of an edge vs into one.
Basically, conventional milling vs climb milling.
A different approach: Cut the masters and see if there is a propensity for fuzz. You will know in a few lines if it's a fuzzer, in which case push the tool instead of pull the tool. Pushing the tool means the tooth engages the top surface 1st, cutting downward and ejecta is in the root of the cut.
I have not tried this but I'm going to on the next fuzzer I run into.
I've pushed the tool only short distances at times, like when working up to a border.
I'm not so sure about pushing a line the entire length and keep the line straight.
Might be worth a try.


I need to remember this- thanks!


"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
 
Posts: 776 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 05 September 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Had not looked at some of the newer replies...Good stuff! I did the lay out with electric tool, when the problems were evident I went to hand tools. However, the problem NEVER went away, even tried fine rifler.

Later, I made a stock from the same tree. Held my breath, but no problems.
 
Posts: 3703 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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