This is the only way I've laid out checkering. I learned this from Bill Knechtel while he was teaching a checkering class at Pete Grisel's Sturgis shop back in '97. Bill could layout and checker a pattern with wraps and ribbons in 8 hours. The method of using rubber cement works great and I've never had it react with the finish. The knife lines through the paper make a very accurate defined line to follow. Most of my patterns are 3-1 so the wrap over the grip has the points line up in the right place. It also makes the top rear point on a wrapped forend pattern not so razor thin.

On the bottom of the grip, Dymo label tape really works well...thickl enough to easily guide your scribe


I use the 3/8" width

I appreciate the detailed pics... this is awesome, thanks!

Just like plowing, if you are not 90 degrees to the headlands there is a tendency to turn in as you get close to the end and next thing you know you have a big hook at the end of your furrow. I like the way you knife in the lines to help keep you headed in the right direction. I've read somewhere of someone doing the same with a pounce wheel. I use a piece of scotch tape, running the tape along my current line and cutting a line with a knife or small scribe on the other side of the tape. Not that my work is even close to being in the same league as yours.

Keep up the great work.

John

Some time back, Phil Pilkington offered a similar technique, but in the form of a decal applied to the wood.

The idea was to just checker throuh the decal. Never tried it myself

James, would you share with us what type stock finish you are using these days ?

Whatever works! I like to use "Stabilo" brand pencil. Something like a grease pencil,. but more robust lead than can be sharpened to a fine point...Shape it like a chisel and the point lasts a lot longer.

Another is a VERY fine tip marking pen.

Using a piece of measuring tape (1/2") to make lines across the pattern much like James' end result.
Tip! line the convex side of the measuring tape with elecrical tape to a void unwanted scratch or mark...also gives a little traction

I THINK I got the idea from Kenndey's book

I’ve used Dymo tape for years now, but it is getting a bit harder to find. I cut my outside borders, then my guidelines, and then put parallel lines throughout the pattern using dymo tape and a extra-fine point Sharpie. The Dymo tape stays straight over the curves, showing me where I have to widen the lines a bit to keep them straight. As always, there’s more than one way to skin a cat.