I like the drop free model from NAP. I have not got one yet my Quick tune rest is still working well. Scott is hands down the best release hunting release I have every used. I have had for 8 years three bows and was left in the yard for the winter (long story). Still kicks A$$.Yes loop all the way. I was talked into one. Wont be with out one. Kisser button if you do not want a peep. Thumb or what ever as long as your rear anchor point is the same everytime it should not matter. Line the string up with the pin or just off to the side. Same as you do it now. I use both a very large peep and a kisser. A loop and a release will decrease the length you pull your bow about an inch. So bow bow that fits now will be way to long and will need to be shortened.

I'll volunteer to be shitstirrer here.

I think you make folly, going to a release, loop, and dropaway all in one move.

3 items new to you all at once? you, who is already set in habits?

surely you jest.

If you are not careful, you will be pissed about all the wasted money and associated crap and turned off to the idea. boman can save you $$$, time, frustration, AND make it work. I am an old timer that converted from the glove to release. I know.

Drop aways are a marketing fad and not needed. You can take a regular tmhunter, the real GKF kind for about 17 bucks and do fine.

string loop, unneeded crap on your bowstring to make noise, slow the arrow, screw up your draw length, and take excess time(and eyes) to hook up on correctly.

release. this is the key component and actually puts your skills to the table.

boman's advice to the finger shooter/convert.

first and foremost, find a gatorjaws release. You can hook up in complete darkness and it negates any advantage of a loop. We have eliminated one of the distractions.

second, I am game for anyone to keep me from shooting their arrows to pieces at 20yards while I use a plain tmhunter rest. nuff said.

third, oh we eliminated that one.

shooting a release will seem odd at first but determine your mind to touch instead of roll and it will happen very consistantly. If you don't give it up too soon, you will look at one of the other bows with ideas.

oh, you do not need a peep to shoot very accurately at moderate ranges and less.

I wish you well in the transition as I know you will shoot like never before once you master it.

NCboman, I have a reason to go to the drop away rest. I will not have to refletch or renock arrows that I use on other bows too. I can use the same setup I use for fingers. The string loop is also easier on strings as I will be back to over 80# and I don't like that single, tiny force on my string.
I am a seasoned archer and can tune a bow for ANY broadhead in 10 minutes. Years ago I figured out how to tune broadheads that nobody except those I gave the info to knows about. A friend at NAP was one of them and they put a version in thier instruction sheets. I can shoot three different arrow sizes from all of my bows and three different weight broadheads. Takes me 2 minutes to switch from one to the other. I have already used a version of a drop away cushion plunger and it shot great with fingers. Trouble was it did not hold up and would break very quickly.
I also designed the lighted sight pins but never had money to patent it. It was stolen from me before I could gather finances.
I can handle 5 or 6 changes all at once because I know how to adjust everything. I just don't want to make the wrong selections on what I buy because I want quality from the start. Finances are still a problem. I don't care what I spend to start, just don't want to do it twice.
I also make my own arrows, strings, cushion plungers and flipper rests. Last one is made from titanium.
No I don't jest!
Give me a raw bow, a pile of arrows and any broadhead you can think of and in a short time I will have broadheads flying like bullets to any distance they will go. I will even give you a challenge. Take one of my arrows and make the broadhead as crooked as you can get it, even if you want to use a smaller insert so you can really turn it sideways. I will put it in the bullseye and it will fly straight. There is no such thing as windplaning broadheads since the old Pearson deadhead went the way of the dodo. That one looked like an airplane wing. I could only get it to fly straight for about 100 yds. then it would turn because the fletch could no longer spin it. THAT was windplaning. What makes a broadhead fly crooked is the direction the end of the arrow is pointing after it leaves the bow because the bow is out of tune. The rest of the shaft will follow it of course.
When my muscles were in shape, I could shoot broadheads and field points into the same holes. Then switch to a different shaft, make a quick adjustment and put that in the same hole. Then take a lighter or heavier broadhead, adjust and put those in the same holes.
I guess what I am saying is I appreciate your comments and ideas and will give them consideration. But don't worry about me making anything work. I am in no hurry and will listen to all advice before I decide. I have to learn about stress on the string from different releases and nocking points, etc. and you fellas know from using these tools. So don't take me wrong and please, everyone else step in here too. Never know, you might just change my ideas. Excuse me, have to go look up the gator jaws! Thanks guys. Damn, I hate gettin old!

Amos, I live clear over by Harpers Ferry WV. We do have a few shops where I can try some. I will get to one in the near future. But you guys are a source of information I can't overlook. I have more then 55 yrs with bows but will listen to all of you before I change anything.
This reminds me of the first cushion plunger. I think I bought the first one made. Everyone said it would not work. We only had recurves back then so there were no bow adjustments or full center shot risers. It was called the panic button and had more adjustments then you can shake a stick at. It was very complicated with very fine threads. It took me weeks, but I made it work. THAT was hard. The amazing thing was that I could shoot a bare shaft 60 yds and hit the spot. I also shot a broadhead with no vanes and hit the target at 40 yds. TRY THAY ONE GUYS! Make sure there are no houses for 500 yds in every direction though. Without vanes, they can go and go and go and go some more. Then the Allen and Jennings compounds came out. AMAZING things. But the Jennings bows were always breaking. He would replace the limbs free. He sent my friend new ones and my friend turned them in the same amount of turns as the old ones. The max on the bow was 70#. We could not tune it. We shot over 12 hours taking turns and adjusting everything. I told him to buy a scale which he did on the way home. He called me that night to inform me we were shooting the thing at 92#. Why we didn't break it, I'll never know. Those were fun times!

I used a NAP 4000 drop away rest this year from about July thru early December. I liked the forgiveness of the rest, but I always had issues with the cable causing interference with the fletchings, no matter how I nocked. I tried the "twist the cable" trick, and the "bend the cable" trick, and I still had problems. I also had the arrow pop out of the little rubber holder that mounts on the shelf a couple times while lifting the bow off the hanger in my stand. It never spooked the deer or cost me a shot, but it did make me worry that it might at some point in time.

For an early Christmas present, I bought myself a Muzzy Zero Effect rest and haven't looked back. Had it installed in about 15 minutes, and by the third shot I had it tuned and shooting bullet holes. It is an awesome rest, and functions perfectly with absolutely no fletching contact. It also does a MUCH better job of arrow capture than any drop away I've seen. I love it, and wouldn't think of using any other drop away rest. JMO, but I would take a look at the MZE.

Joe

jfk, thank you, those are the things I want to hear. I have another problem I didn't consider. My cable guard rod is below the grip so I can't use the NAP or Muzzy. I will have to use the Trapdoor rest. This has no connection to the cables, no strings, slides or cables.
Does anyone have any comments on these or the Golden Key rests?

bfrshooter,

I am reasonably sure (how's that for waffling ) that Muzzy makes an adapter for low cable guard rods. Should be just the ticket. Not sure but is the Trapdoor one of the magnetic "drop on shock" type releases? I don't trust those. Also, almost any of the drop away rests that use cables/cord could be served directly into your cables...just another set of options.

Joe

A drop away rest is just that. It will begin to fall as soon as the cables move forward. No rest interference no problems there. A straight properly spined arrow is all that will be needed. A string loop is stiff when pulled tight after a few draws. My Scott has jaws I have had no problem what so ever hooking to the string. I was leary of them at first (that being one of the reasons, busting myself in the face the other). If the glance down to hook your release costs you the deer, well you were not gonna get it any way. I glance down to make sure the arrow is on the rest before I draw. I hook my release as soon as I pick up the bow. As far as slowing the string down I doubt if it would be measurable a foot or two per second if that. Way less wear and tear on the string and knocks. The only sound would be made by the release closing. More niose would be made hitting the brass nock sets. If a change is made from fingers to a release the rest will have to change. Fingers put side pressure on the arrow against the riser. Release puts downward pressure. So why not go with a fall away if that is what YOU want. I use a NAP TM hunter style that works great and had to switch out when I went to a release. I feel you can handle a higher weight easier, due to you using your whole back not just the rear of your shoulder and the weight is held by your wrist not your finger tips. Drop the wieght to start but I think you will get less fatigued during range sessions. If you can not find a fall away that works with your bow, look at a whisker biscut. You can switch from release to fingers with that one. Just a suggestion. Carbon arrows would be a way to pick up the speed lost by the string loop. I picked up 47 feet per second by making the switch. Both arrows are the correct and reccomended one for the bow by Easton. I am about 45 minutes from Hapers Ferry near Gettysburg. There are some great shops up this way. I can get you phone numbers and direction if you like. There is a great shop that is just off of I81 in State Line PA. Try FS discount arrows. They have archery gear cheap, do a search. They have about the best prices I have found.

I don't know if the trapdoor is magnetic. I haven't been to the shop yet. I also thought of attaching the NAP right to a cable. I E-mailed NAP but have no answer yet.
Hornet, I will check out FS arrows, thanks. Too bad Bowhunters closed up. I used to get all my stuff from them.
I don't think a string loop will cost more the a fps so that is not a worry. The woman at the shop told me, when I called, that the loops can break. Not sure about that yet either.
I am going to make a batch of beer tomorrow, then go take down a treestand I found. The stand looks in good shape yet, but the chain holding it is grown into the tree. I might have to cut it. There was also a huge birds nest on it. The screw in steps can't be recovered because they are grown in over an inch. The landowner has no idea who it belonged to.
I should get to the store later this week to look things over.

BF I was in the same situation as you were inthe begining of this season. After shooting fingers for 35 years I decided I was in need of a change. I was just shooting ass consistent as I used to. I went hog wild and bought a new shorter bow and went to a release. I also droped down to shooting 63 lbs. I have never been happier. I am mainly a hunter and hve taken two nice deer this season both with acceptable results. I went with a new Hoyt Cybertec. True fire claw type release and I do shoot a loop. After many discussions with top notch shooters I would never put my release directly to the string. Rest was another delima. I tried several then settled on the Whisker Bisket. What a great invention. I can not she myself ever going to another rest. Nice thing is it don't matter how your current arrows are fletched. they all work. I used the model for aluminum arrows but shoot carbon from it. This way I can move back to AL if I want to. I get consistent arrow flight from this rest and an get 2" groups at 30 yards which all then I can exepect from my eyes these days. Hope this helps. By the way I had some of the same responses form people wondering why after all trhese years I was going to switch. Well I went with the chang and can't be happier. I am not confident I have at least another 10 years of bow hunting left in me.

You could try using a Timberline No peep instead of a peep. They bolt onto the front sight & line your eye up the same every time. Though if you're already shooting well enough without a peep you'll probably be OK once you work out a consistent anchor with the release.

I had an NAP 2000 & wasn't impressed. Wasn't easy to set up, I considered it loud & finally a stop pin fell out which launched 3 arrows over the target & into the weeds before I figured out what was wrong. Replaced it with a Trapdoor which I'm happy with. I have heard these don't drop fast enough to get clearance over 260fps. My rig is dead on 260.

You might have to shorten the draw an inch or two when you switch to release. I had to.

OK, guys, I went to the store and bought the Trapdoor rest and a T.R.U. Ball Stinger release. I installed the rest and got it on center and level with the old cushion plunger hole. I took an arrow and went to my target. I shot 6 shots. No peep or kisser button, just put my hand against my ear. I just wanted to see what would happen. It's cold out and I didn't make any attempt to tune. I didn't change anything on the bow, draw length, nocking point or weight. Arrows are regular fletch with Arizona vanes. (best there is) I hit high because of the change in anchor. All shots were in less then an inch at 10 yds. The arrow went in dead straight. They were also exactly verticle with the spot I was aiming at, no lefts or rights. I can't wait until it is warm enough to stand outside for a while. This is going to be real easy to tune.

The Trapdoor is mechanical, no magnets, and works like a charm. Thanks for telling me about it!

All I have to do is to establish a good anchor with practice. I don't think I need any kisser or peep.

I also got a length of string for a loop to try but will have to change draw length. I will try it after I shoot for a while. Not sure which way to go yet.

The price at my store was the same as Cabellas and the discount arrow place and I didn't have to pay shipping, just tax. No wonder there are so many instant archers these days. This is easier then a gun.

One reason I didn't go to a release long ago was because I didn't like trying to snake vanes through a rest, adjusting nocks and the style of fletch. This Trapdoor lets me grab any arrow and shoot. They say to put the cock feather up, but there is plenty of clearance.

Yeah, I know, the other bows might get the treatment too if this grows on me.

Years ago I was in the Eight Ball archers club in Ohio and we were invited to shoot at the Sportsmans Show. I had a Wing compound. I was having fun by taping ping pong balls to a balloon with another balloon inside of it. I would shoot off the balls one at a time and then break the outer ballon, then the inner one. I was about 15 yds. I happened to turn and look behind me and there were about 200 people standing there watching me. Quite a shock! With a release I might be able to go to aspirin tablets.

I found a Doinker stabilizer at Wally World for $4.50 to replace what I had. My bow is dead quiet. In fact it makes less noise then with my fingers.

Turtle, I just sent for a peep. It is the Vital Gear Master peep and is on the side of the string where I look instead of between strands. Looks big enough for hunting so I will try it first. Strange thing happened when I tried to tune. I have been shooting 2315 shafts out of this bow at 74# and had perfect flight. (fingers) They would not tune. The tear in the paper was vanes down and I had to raise the nocking point a lot to cure it. I was hitting very high at 20 yds too. I didn't see any up or down waving of the arrow. I switched to 2317's and the problem went away. I had to move the nocking point back down and I got bullet holes at 6 feet. They are very accurate at 20 yds but once in a while I hit high because my anchor is not consistant yet. I shortened the draw length a half inch and everything went south. I was all over the target. This really screwed up my anchor point so I put it back.
I have chronograph results with this bow and finger shooting. With the release I only gained 1 fps. Can't figure why the 2315's wont shoot. I don't like them anyway because they are too light for deer so no big loss. Most of them are bent up from arrows hitting together and I only have a few straight ones left. I don't want to buy more.

According to Easton charts your 2315's are underspined & 2317's are just right assuming 100gr head on a 29" arrow.

Not saying that is the problem, just one possible cause.

Turtle, sounds right. I use a 30" arrow with 125 gr. heads. I find that leaving the draw length the same and anchoring back farther, I get better back tension. Back tension is always a problem when shooting fingers and anchoring with a finger in the corner of the mouth. The old under chin anchor of target shooters was always better but not practicle for hunting.
I just never understood how the 2315's flew perfect with my fingers anyway. Broadheads and field points would both hit the bullseye at all distances. I killed a lot of deer with them but always had to be careful to hit the right spot because the arrows are light. I would take this bow when I didn't practice enough to pull the stronger bows. Today I turned up my Midas to 82# and will pull it at least 10 times every day. Have to get back in shape. I also found out I had it on 84#, no wonder I had trouble with it. I usually turn down the limbs 6 turns for storage and staple a paper around the string marked with the turns. I turned it back 6 turns and somehow had it on 84#. Oh well, another sign of age. Never bothered to weigh it.

I had a problem years ago (no, I won't tell how long) with tuning a new bow. This is before I figured out how to do it and we shot all summer to get broadheads to fly right. I went to my friends shop and explained the problem. He took a handful of arrows of every size and laid them on the bench. Some were so lightly spined I thought they would break. He had me stand behind him to watch arrow flight. He shot every size arrow perfectly straight and into the target with my bow. As I scratched my head and asked him HOW, he held out his hand. No glove or tab, just bare fingers! I found the Neet hair tab and do almost as good. This is the best finger tab made and even shoots good wet. It doesn't shrivel up from water like the Can't Pinch did.
The glove never worked and would get grooves in it. Fingers would freeze with it too. Fingers would get sore with a heavy bow. I knew a target archer that used them and he carried about 5 in his back pocket at the shoots. As soon as he started missing, he would toss the glove and put a new one on. Guy had more money then brains I guess.
I have a Neet tab that I have used for 10 years and the hair is worn off. It still shoots good.
I still can't wait to get set up with this release though. I want to shoot now but it is really cold out.