Please!!! anyone help me. I need broadheads that fly like my field points without breaking me. I only have till oct. 1st to get ready.
Any help would be appreciated. Rod

Any broadhead will fly like a field point and have the same point of impact unless your arrow is a mismatch to the bow.

Why is it that my field points group at 1" at 20 yds. but the broadheads (eastman sabre titaniums) are high and right with one and low and left with the other on the same arrows that just grouped 1"? Is it possible to have purchased bad broadheads? (the third broadhead was broke before I paper tuned my bow...)
just wondering. Rod

No, the broadheads are fine. If the arrows are a good spine match you have to tune the bow more to make the broadheads go to the field points. Start with the arrow directly behind the string, not pointing in or out. Paper tune at 6 feet. LEAVE THE REST ALONE! Use the nocking point and bow weight ONLY. Once you have a perfect paper tune, then sight the bow with field points to about 30 yd's, as perfect as you can.
Put up a 1" piece of paper for a target and shoot a broadhead at it at 20 yd's. If it hits high, raise the nocking point until it is on the same level as the paper. Reverse if it hits low by lowering the nocking point. Do the nocking point FIRST. If it goes right (I assume you are right handed.) Turn down the bow a pound or so at a time until you walk the arrow into the paper. If it hits left, turn the bow up. LEAVE THE REST ALONE!
If your arrows fit the bow, the broadhead should now hit the same place as the field points and use the same sight settings. At longer distance then 30 yd's they might drop a tiny bit lower.
To really fine tune it, do the same thing at 30 yd's.
The first thing you will find is that the field points will group tighter.
When you are out of tune or use the wrong arrow, the broadhead can't recover like the field point and will start to steer the arrow. It is NOT windplane! It is because the spine of the shaft can't jerk it back in line with the intended flight path. This is caused by either putting too much or not enough force on the arrow with the bow weight.
Remember that a broadhead actually makes an arrow LONGER.
I hope that helps. It should not take more then half an hour or less after you have the field points sighted, I have done it in 5 minutes.
By the way, I figured this out 21 years ago, many, many years before Easton came out with it. I was rejected by all the magazines and still think they got it from me indirectly. I still have the copyright but can't prove a thing.
I hope that helps you. Let me know.
Another thing I have had happen is I was so close but could not quite get it. I had some arrow wobble I could not get out. The solution was so easy I could not believe I didn't think of it. All I had to do was crank the weight to throw it out of whack and start the broadhead tune over.

Hey I just read something in your post I didn't like and missed.
DON'T PAPER TUNE WTH A BROADHEAD! You will waste your time.

Thanks, I didn't paper tune with a broadhead, I paper tuned with field points. Thanks for the info, I try it out and let you know what happens, Rod

One more thing I left out, when I said one went high and right I ment 6 inches high and 4 inches right and the one that went left went 2 inches low and 4 inches left, and when I swaped the broadheads with the arrows they did the same thing, they being the broadhead that went right still went right and the broadhead that went left still went left. That is why I was blaming the broadhead, but it probably is partially me...Rod

Did you check the broadheads for runout?
You should also verify the weight of the broadheads

100gr Teken G5's fly identical to my broadheads off my bow.

First of all, throw those Eastman broadheads away!! The go to Slicktrick web site and order some. They are the strongest, most accurate heads that I've ever used in 35 years and are also very reasonable.

quote:

Originally posted by fredrod:
Please!!! anyone help me. I need broadheads that fly like my field points without breaking me. I only have till oct. 1st to get ready.
Any help would be appreciated. Rod

I'm not a compound shooter, but I've done well w/ recurves, longbows and selfbows. None of my tackle shoots center shot as my arrows must shoot around the bow handle. With these bows I find I'm better served tuning the bow/arrow using a broadhead if the end result is hunting big game. I find it a waste of effort setting the bow up for target points then attempting to find broadheads that fly the same if the ultimate goal is to practice and use the bow for hunting. You may get away w/ this to some degree with a modern center shot and I have had a few combinations that worked this way w/ a longbow but I find this to be the exception and not the rule.

As to fixed broadheads, those w/ vents tend to be less effected by wind planing. I have friends who are regular hunting companions w/ a couple of big name pros and they use mechanical heads that fly pretty close to matched practice tips. Even w/ those, I noticed a difference in flight during one hunt I went on. One of the guys impressed me hitting a cigarette pack during practice before the hunt at a great distance but he was consistently way off of this POI when he used the mechanical head.

I cannot speak for compounds but once I have my bows working well with an arrow/broadhead combo, I always find it fairly easy to get a judo point to fly close to the same POI. I Devcon epoxy the judos and broadheads on practice arrows and shoot the crap out of them. I find using the practice broadheads on 3D targets and using the judos when roving for small game and for stump shooting to be the easiest and quickest way to get and keep me squared away.

GVA

Try the slick trick broadhead. I have had great luck with them and they fly with my field points to 60 yards.

MUZZY

I have never seen the Eastman head so it is possible they could just be bad heads.
However, I have spent my life debunking stuff. One of those is that a broadhead has to be perfectly straight---I debunked that for my satisfaction.
Once my bow was tuned I took a smaller insert and hot glued it in my arrow as far to the side as I could. The broadhead was pointing sideways a LOT. My first shot was scary and I had an idea it would head for parts unknown. Surprise! I hit the 1" paper with it. I spent half a day shooting that abortion and never missed by more then a few inches out to 30 yd's.
If I would have shot a deer with that thing it would have turned in it's body and come out somewhere else. BUT the arrow flew as straight as a broadhead in perfect alignment. So everytime I read about making sure the broadhead is perfect, I chuckle.
Now about the traditional bow, it is very rare that a broadhead and field point can be made to shoot the same. There is no weight adjustment to make it easy so all tuning has to be done with the broadhead itself. A good way to spend a summer! I once had a recurve tuned so good I shot a broadhead into the bull at 40 yd's with NO FLETCHING on the arrow. One day I decided to try it again, hee, hee, The arrow turned left halfway there, tipped up and the last I seen of it was a flicker over the trees about 300 yd's away. Good thing I was out in the boonies.
Another thing I did was when I was hitting to the right while experimenting with my tuning, instead of reducing the weight I decided to make the head lighter thus making the arrow stiffer. How? By removing one blade at a time. When I got 2 blades off, I was in the 1" paper. Don't think it can be done? Believe me, it shot great.

The Eastmans are pretty cheap, I'd chunk them and buy some quality heads.

Even the good heads are duds at times. I've had bad Muzzys and bad Thunderheads. By bad I mean something like one out of a package wouldn't fly true on the right arrows out of tuned bows. If a fixed head has any tiny amount of imperfection, it can plane. Broad heads are rated by straightness just as arrow shafts.

If you want true fieldpoint flight at all distances, expandables are the only way to go. However, there are some nice fixed heads out now. The only problem I see with most of the fixed heads designed for fast arrow flight is the small cutting diameter.

My advice would be to try some better quality heads such as Slick Tricks, G5s, Magnus etc. The Magnus are some of the cheaper heads I've tried that had fieldpoint precision.

If you are just hunting deer, you may want to try a quality expandable. They give a larger wound channel due to the larger CD and fly exactly like field points. NAP shockwave and NAP scorpion are both good expandables with very sharp blades and tough construction.

Good Luck

Reloader

Hey bfrshooter,I e-mailed the eastman company and they are sending a new set of broadheads out,I am going to tune as you told me then see what happens. If all else fails I have a new set of muzzys to try out.Rod

If your bow is tuned properly, you should be able to shoot any broadhead out on the market accurately. Provided it is the same weight as your field points, and all heads are aligned straight on the shafts. I have never had an issue with broadheads not flying true once my bow was tuned. I have tried many brands of broadheads, and never had a problem. My guess is the vast majority of hunters have never taken the time to tune their bows properly. I know that most bowhunters I know don't even know what papertuning is, let alone do it.

Bushman, very true, tune is the secret. I shoot all kinds of heads and can switch from one weight to another with the allen wrench on the bow weight. I have recorded what each head weight needs.
However I would NOT worry about a little head wobble as long as the bow is tuned. That is way overblown. I can't imagine the indians having a dial indicator to get a stone head straight.

BFR,

Saying every broadhead will shoot straight is sort of misleading IMO.

I know very well how to tune bows and I've had new Muzzys and Thunderheads amoung others plane. Replace them with a different head and back to good flight.

The faster bows bring out broadhead imperfections much more than the older slower bows. I've purchased cheap heads that wouldn't tune no matter what you tried. They were slightly inconcentric.

Reloader

If your bow is in tune, and you have no fletching clearance problems, how about your helical?

Ive seen guys who have straight flethed arrows shoot bullet holes with field points and then be all over the target with broadheads. Make sure you have as much helical as possible on the arrows.

Reloader, any time a broadhead is changed, it must have a tune check to see if the weight of the bow has to be tweaked. The results have to be recorded so you can move back and forth between heads. Some are longer or shorter so it will effect flight. You are not looking at wind plane, only arrow spine.
With my older, slower Brownings, I use 5 different heads without an adjustment unless I change head weight.
If you want to check for wind plane of a head, it must be shot past 100 yd's to see what happens when fletch spin slows.
My arrows can be shot into the air across a field to maximum distance without going off course. If the heads wind plane, you will see the arrow turn someplace downrange.
Don't confuse wind plane with spine and tune. Wind plane does not happen at our hunting ranges.

YES, the broadhead must spin, stay away from straight fletch or tiny vanes.

fredrod,

A few years ago, a guy explained that broadheads are basically non-flexible veins. So you have veins one each end of the arrow trying to stabilize/steer the arrow. When you have planeing or ducking the veins and broadheads are working against each other.

SO, I shoot two different brands of broadheads, bear super razorheads without the bleeder blade, and later started shooting the 4-blade magnus stingers. I shoot the bear's without the bleeder blade.

When I first started shooting bear broadheads, they were all over the target, but one was pretty close. What I was advised to do is take note of how the blades line up with the veins and then turn the blades little and see if the arrow flight improved or worsened. To turn the blade one of my buddies had some little rubber washers that would hold the blade in the desired position, but I used a lighter and melted the insert glue and turned the insert. After a couple of attempts the broadheads were flying just like the field points.

I haven't tried this with a three blade broadhead like the muzzy or thunder heads, but it works well with the bear's and stingers.

I agree that if your bow is tuned and shooting field tips well, you should not have to re-tune the bow, just the broadheads.

Not so, just because field tips are shooting good doesn't mean much. They are very forgiving. If the arrow is out of tune with the broadhead, the broadhead will steer the arrow. What you want to do is have the arrow spine straighten the arrow before the head can take over control of the flight. The arrow is not spinning while still on the string and for a short distance from the bow, this is the critical time to get the head in line with the target.
This is very hard with the light arrows and fast bows made today. Some setups are impossible to tune because some guys think speed counts more then arrow spine and weight. A light but properly spined arrow can be tuned but they are hard to find. When they make skinny, thin walled carbon arrows they sacrifice stiffness. The faster an arrow is launched, the less time there is for the spine to straighten the broadhead flight. Very short arrows and overdraws are crazy to tune too.
Look at all the tiny heads today that should not be used on big game. The mechanical heads need more power and weight behind them for penetration. I tried some and got dismal penetration with 2419 shafts and 82#. I could not imagine using them with 50# and less then 300 gr arrows. The reason for those little 90 and 100 gr heads is because the arrows can't recover with the proper broadheads.
I want 2 holes in my deer every time, that is what kills and leaves blood trails.
I can't understand why guys want to hunt with 3D setups. I had 2 bows and different arrows, one for target and one for hunting. Things have not changed to allow a target bow to be taken in the field in any ethical way.

Of all the broadheads we sold the Slick Tricks got the most comments from customers who liked them for flying just like their target points.

2nd I would say was the Magnus Stingers.

I have a 6 degree right hand helical on my fletching.Rod

bfrshooter, got my new broadheads today,and did as you said,and the first second and third hit the mark within 1/4" of center. Thank you for the info.Rod

Wonderful! It was easy too, wasn't it?

yes, it was, all it takes is a little knowledge.
Thanks again, Rod

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