I am looking for drawings and sketches concerning
how to make stopping knots, nocks, linkings for drop rest, loops and such.

I am not interested (for the moment) in making my own bowstring and I believe I know how to make a serving.
My request is mainly for both the specialists

DON G & BOSS KONGONI
who as we use to say in French are boring my ass no end. In English : who are making me gaping. BTW if you have a knot to tighten my falling chin.

Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by jbderunz:
My request is mainly for both the specialists

DON G & BOSS KONGONI
who as we use to say in French are boring my ass no end. In English : who are making me gaping. BTW if you have a knot to tighten my falling chin.

Thanks

Jean, I'm hoping that your phrase has lost or gained something unintended in the translation!



If you like knots you should get "The Ashley Book of Knots", it has over 2500 knots in it, and many are useful. The Ashley Book of Knots

Drop rest: I put a 1/2 inch (12 cm) serving on the main down cable six inches (150 cm) below the level of the rest. I then use a portable bow press ( Bowmaster) to loosen the main down cable so that I can insert the operating cord from the rest between the two halves of the down cable below the serving. Remove the bow press. The serving on the down cable simply keeps the rest cord from rising to a higher location on the down cable as I draw the bow and let it down gently. The clamping action of the tight down cable lets the rest cord set it's own operating length. I then seize (or serve) over the dangling end of the rest string to keep it from moving (but I've never had it move even if I don't seize it.)


The string loop (or nock loop) is simply two cow hitches tied on opposite sides of the nock position. You must use good cord for this. The end of the cord must be melted, then mashed flat while hot with a wet finger or tool. This mushroom end keeps the knot from working loose. You must not burn the cord behind this mushroom or it will weaken the cord and the mushroom will break off. You also must not burn the bowstring! http://www.angelfire.com/sports/huntfishmaui/stringloop.html (I tie mine on alternating sides, but it may not matter...)

quote:

DON G & BOSS KONGONI
who as we use to say in French are boring my ass no end. In English : who are making me gaping. BTW if you have a knot to tighten my falling chin.

Don - Don't bore the man with usefull information

Dear friends

Sorry, too often I have to speak either English or German. This explains why I misused the verb bore (in German bohren means to pierce);
The French vulgar expression is “cela me troue le cul » which is meaning :
“This is piercing my arseâ€. In English one says “this is flabbergastingâ€.
No arse-licking intended.
Don’t tell my mother, I don’t wish to eat soap again.

2500 knots could be too many. My English and French books are providing about 400 knots and it’s far too much for my poor brain. Thanks for the tip, I’ll order it just for the fun of it.

Your method for linking a drop rest is excellent. I have used the one Trophy Ridge recommends : something like a string loop with 2 cow hitches, but threading the cord twince in the string. Your method is spotless, idiotproof.

Concerning the string loop, please forgive my poor English. I am looking for an alternative for nok set. I think a knot will be better than a metal and rubber ring.

Jean,

Do you use a mechanical release?

Does it clamp on the string? Or around the string?

Or do you use fingers?

If I knew these details I might give a better answer.

Dear Don

Thanks for your solicitude, I hope I don’t waste Your time.
Please, forgive my broken English.

We are talking about my LX. 70-75# 30â€. (My conquest light is for snap or instinctive shooting, with the fingers only).

I am using a release (Tru Ball short N sweet or Tru Ball Hunter glove) and clamping on the loop not on the string. The pain in the …..neck is the loop is tending to pinch the arrow neck. I was tempted by a tru nok, a tru fire 5 stars nok or an ultra nok (all plastic loops) but I fear they are adding more load to the string, slowing down arrows or causing noise.



Just a question (the same for Boss Kongoni) : are You in the archery biz? You are awfully competent.

Don, we are rowing in the same boat (another French colloquialism). I cannot any longer not hunting and bowhunting in Africa every year(still 14 weeks). My LX is fine but I want more Oomph power.
I am close to buy a Mathews Safari, the one You have. What a task to find one. If You know another gentleman selling one, please tell me.

Anyhow I have decided to buy a Bowtech Allegiance . I am “ boxing in the same category†(another French colloquialism)as You , 70-75#. So I think I’ll buy a 90# beefed down 80 or even 75# if that’s possible. What’s Your opinion for You have one.

What’s killing me is paying 850$ this bow when one can get it for 650$ in the land of free.

More congratulations for your splendid elk.

Jean,

I'm just an amateur, but I tend to go overboard when I start something.

I used an Ultra-Nok before I switched to a string loop. I liked it. It is aluminum or magnesium, not plastic. I like the string loop better only because it cannot make a clicking noise against my release when I am shaking with excitement. I still keep an Ultra-Nok in my kit for fast field replacement.

If you like the loop then these eliminator buttons put inside the loop (one on each side of the nock) will eliminate the pinch. I find that I used them until the loop knot gets pulled tight by shooting. Then the spacing is set and the loop will no longer pinch the nock -- then I cut the buttons off.

But I no longer need to use the buttons at all. I tie the loop around a big nock on an old 2513 aluminum arrow. Then I remove the arrow and put the nose of some needle-nose pliers in the loop to the point that the tapered nose is a little wider than my nock. Open the pliers as hard as possible with both hands, pulling the cow hitches on the string loop very tight. The knots will never move closer to each other, and will no longer pinch the nock.

The Bowtech bows can only be backed off by about ten pounds. I get 98 ft-lbs of energy from my 80# bow. If I had it to do over again I might have gotten the 90# Allegiance rather than the 80# as I rapidly got to full power on the 80# bow. (I was afraid the 90# would be too much for my old shoulders.)

If you are going for elephant and need the Safari I could possibly be talked into selling it to you. I don't know shipping and import/export laws, though, and don't want to break any!

The Safari, like the Allegiance, has draw-length specific cams. Mine is 30".

I think the 90# Allegiance will out do the 100# Safari, though. My 80# Allegiance beats the Safari at 90# which is the strongest I can still draw it.

If it happens that You want to tell us what You know about Archery, it’ll save plenty of time just explaining us what You ignore, if ever.

Thanks for the tips concerning sparing the drawbacks of noks or buttons. Wouldn’t it from You, I’d have trouble to believe it. Be sure I’ll try it.
I hate adding devices on my string. For example, I don’t use a peep sight but the wonderful NO PEEP (BTW, my LX has 2 Nopeeps, one for me and the second regulated for my son who is sometimes just playing with the Bow.

Yesterday evening a good archer friend advised me against the Mathews Safari. He is thinking this bow will break me. I am under 150#, short-legged 5'10â€, my draw-length 30â€.

I fear You have sawed the branch off which You are sitting on (more colloquialisms). You are too generous and to honest (your wife might be like mine, ranting because I would be richer should I think more to my family than to give friends a hand). Now You have given me all your data. Consequently I’ll buy a 90# Allegiance and I not sure to be interested in the Safari.

There is no shipping and law problems concerning sending a Bow (or even a rifle in France). The shit might come later when using a not customs-cleared rifle (and worst a not-benchchecked barrel) but very little to be taken blood-handed.

I am now searching how I can smuggle a Bowtech Allegiance in France. I am not content paying 20% VAT when currently, 70% of my earnings go to the taxman. There is a wide opportunity when attending the ATA in Atlanta but it’s not now but in January. I am due to fly to in the CAR the 6th January.
I have so many items to be ordered at Cabelas…………

Thanks Don, your advises are uvaluable.

Don

Somebody is looking for a Mathews Safari on Ebay.

jb

Jean,

Thanks for the pointer to ebay, but I'm not trying to sell the Safari right now. I got it at a very reasonable price, and will keep it until I'm sure that neither I nor my brothers need it. I hear that some countries set the requirements by draw weight rather than kinetic energy, so I might have to use it some day.

quote:

Just a question (the same for Boss Kongoni) : are You in the archery biz? You are awfully competent.

Thank you.

No, I'm just a Tradional Bowhunter. I try to help if I can.

I use the Ultra Rest on one bow and found the plastic cable anchor would damage the cables. I took some nylon cord, a little larger then 1/16" in diameter and fastened it to the cable with the same type knot used on a string loop. It is very small and is working perfectly without doing any damage. It has found it's own center and has not moved.

bfr,

I put that clamp in my tack box, but I don't think I'll ever use it. I think they just include it for people that are knot impaired!

Don_G


I bought my LX on Ebay in the USA……..for 2 reasons. It’s cheaper and above all it’s a little worn out. As it’s not shipshape the wife doesn’t note I have a new bow.

I am really sorry. Without your advices I would have bought a Allegiance 80#. Thanks to You I’ll buy a Allegiance 90#, no luck for You. Would You have been dishonest, I would have been pleased with your Allegiance 80#. If I can help You sell it in France?
I think I’ll buy mine in France, it’s more expensive but this way I’ll have nothing to fear when crossing boundaries.

Quoting You : “I hear that some countries set the requirements by draw weight rather than kinetic energy, so I might have to use it some dayâ€
I think the minimum requirement in RSA and Zim is 90#, not 100.

Anyhow I cannot imagine how the draw weight can be checked in an Airport. Most of the guys there are really non competent. I imagine the few who try, totted the bows the wrong way and threw themselves an arrow in the shoulder.
This year in Bangui when arriving the customs really sucked. Suddenly one of the customs officer let inadvertently out a burst of Kalashnikov. They were so ashamed that in no time we were cleared. When leaving 12 controls and 2 times 20 euros for lubricating our exfiltration. Lucky the Foreign Legion helped a little

quote:

Originally posted by Boss Kongoni:

quote:

Just a question (the same for Boss Kongoni) : are You in the archery biz? You are awfully competent.

Thank you.

No, I'm just a Tradional Bowhunter. I try to help if I can.

Thanks Boss.

What's puzzling me is your using signt on a recurve. It's definitely not fashion in France ; the recurve is widely used and always without sight : that's for instinctive shooting, and the recurve shooters are admired as traditionnal bowhunters.
I am sometimes using a recurve. However, I can shoot well only if I am training. As soon as I quit training my shooting (on targets, damn not on games) becomes ludicrous.

Jean,

I'll just keep the 80#, I think it is sufficient for all but elephant - and I have no plans for elephant.

It is amazing how fast 80# seems normal, after shooting 65# for many years.

I always was too honest. I'm the guy that corrects the clerk when she gives me too much change.... but I sleep well at night.

I used your methods also. My (now) ex-wife never noticed when I got a newer used motorcycle. It's amazing that my 1985 Honda never wore out.

Enjoy!

quote:

Originally posted by jbderunz:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Boss Kongoni:
[QUOTE]

What's puzzling me is your using signt on a recurve. It's definitely not fashion in France ; the recurve is widely used and always without sight : that's for instinctive shooting, and the recurve shooters are admired as traditionnal bowhunters.
I am sometimes using a recurve. However, I can shoot well only if I am training. As soon as I quit training my shooting (on targets, damn not on games) becomes ludicrous.

You must be confussing me with another AR member. I only shoot instinctive(No Sight)

IMHO - One can not serve two masters. Many can alternate from Compound to Trad, few are truely exceptional with both.

Once one is proficant with a recurve, a little quality shooting once a week will keep your form & eye strong.

I'm a month away from our Whitetail Rut. My equipment is set. I shoot ONE arrow each morning prior to work, differant range each daym differant angles, NO warm-up, just like a hunt.

I then reflect on that arrow that day. I feel it helps one prepare mentally for the hunt.