Anyone ever had a problem with a razor sharp broadhead not penetrating?If so what brand?Anyother failures of any kinds?I know there was a lot of talk at one time about the cut on impact vs the punch thru type heads but that was before the open on contacts were popular.They did a test were they tried to push by hand the different broadheads thru elk hide.cut on contact like zwicky won hands down easy.Alao are heavy huge broadheads like the biggest you can buy good for treestands at dark super close range shot or do you guys shoot them at long range anytime?With in 20yards does it matter much about drop?will a heavy head actually fly truer in some bows?Thanks in advance

It depends on what type of game you are talking about.

If you are talking whitetail, It doesn't take much to get a passthru as long as you are using a sharp head (mechanical or fixed).

Any thing from 75 grains up will be fine for whitetails.

I use 100 grain expandables because they fly true and the 100 grain gives me a flat trajectory. The heavier 125+ heads do have more of an arch to them.

I've never had a problem w/ the expandables not having enough penetration. I consider passthrus barried in the dirt plenty of penetration. The only time I've had arrows fail to penetrate was when they hit the shoulder point or Back bone ( the Backbone hits are usually drop at the shot kills).

A deers shoulder or Back Bone will stop pretty much any broadhead fixed or expandable. I do believe that fixed blade heads penetrate better but they sacrifice flight and cutting dia. If you hit em' in heavy bones w/ any head, they will fail to penetrate.

The heavier heads may fly better in some bows verses others but, it is going to rely more on arrow spline, the bows ability to be tuned, and speed.

Reloader

Surveys that I have read show that most deer killed with a bow are shot at less than 20 yards. this could be for a couple of reasons. one could be that the farther out they are the more likely you are to miss, but I have killed several deer and my longest shot was 35 yards. I've been shooting archery for most of my life, and have become an avid archer in the last 10 years. I haven't used mechanical heads because I didn't want them to fail and I saw that as just one more thing to go wrong. However, I have used countless fixed heads and for my money muzzy is far and away the best cutting/penetrating head on the market. I use a 75 grain 3 blade and with a bow that is correctly tuned and heads that are properly alined I can get them to stabilize with 3 1/2 inch hand cut fastback feathers at 321 fps and hold groups under 3 inches at 80 yards although I would never take a shot on an animal at that distance.

There are several points to consider in addition to razor sharp. Placement obviously, but also tuning of your arrows. Arrows not flyionmg straight lose enegry(KE) in flight tring to get straight. That energy is not availble for penetration.

Another point is wt. of the arrow and most often forgottten DRAG of the arrow shaft after entry. A big FAT arrow causes more drag than a thin diameter arrow.

Lastly design two blades with allways out penetrate multi-blades due to less drag. Also in hunting they qwill "slide" past ribs vs. cuting into thwem (3 blade)

I've used the WASP HI-Tech Hammer SST 125 gr 3 blade with very good success on deer, elk and antelope. They are very sharp out of the box and fly like darts.

Just my two cents. Tuning and the specific set-up taking aside...... I prefer using Steelforce. Up to the 210g for Dangerous Game, not one has failed me.

Saying this, you decide what you will hunt, so choose the best head for your quarry. Not many bad broadheads on the market at present, although I can name a few I have seen and experienced failing.

Does anyone ever use the snuffer?Are they still made?what ever happened to the owner/inventer Roger Rothair?

I bought about 90 2-bladed snuffers at $2.00 ea. They zip right through and shoot great. I've got enough to last me a while. I havent seen them for sale in a while but magnus makes a three-bladed snuffer

I'd like to get in on a deal like that one. I shoot 125 grain 2 blade heads, if anyone knows where I can buy a whack of them for cheeeep I'd love to know.

the chef

I've also shot archery all of my life. I started in the mid 50s and shot competitive archery up through the compounds into the middle 80s.
In the mid 80s I quit bowhunting with a compound and went back to hunting with a recurve. Since I never take shots over 40yds it didn't make any sense to me whether I used my compound or one of my recurves.
I still shoot competitive target archery with a compound though because we shoot out to 80yds.

For the first 10+ years of my bowhunting experience (the 60s) I shot Bear broadheads with the razor inserts. They're a good broadhead and do a decent job. I did get cut once by an insert that came off inside a hog when I was butchering it. That was when I gave up broadheads that had removable/replaceable razor blades.

I was at a local archery store in 71 when the rep from Zwickey was there doing a demo outside shooting concrete cinder blocks with Zwickey Eskimos. I went in and bought a dozen of the 125grn heads. I still have 10 of that original dozen and they are my go to heads. They have NEVER let me down !!





I have never understood the people who try to hunt with light-weight carbon arrows. They buy them because they are the latest/greatest and they can't be bent but they end up having to add weight behind the tips to have enough mass to kill the animal with.

I've shot Easton arrows all of my life. I have always shot X7 target arrows for target competition and XX75s for hunting arrows. All of my hunting bows are 55# so I've always used a 2018 arrows but have recently changed to a 2117. All my hunting arrows average around 550-560grains. I consider a 450 grain arrow the minimum to hunt with. (it's just like bullets folks)

Of the 3 alloys that Easton uses to make their aluminum arrows, the XX75 (7075 alloy) is their middle quality and has some magnesium and nickel in the alloy but their X7 target arrows have the highest quantity of mag. & nickel in the alloy (7178 alloy)
A few years ago Easton brought out a camo hunting version of the X7 (7178) target arrow that they call the XX78-SuperSlam. In my opinion it is the finest aluminum hunting arrow ever made!



This year I picked up 4 of the G5-Montec heads. I was intrigued because they are cast one-piece stainless. They hold a good edge and they shoot great but I haven’t shot an animal with one yet so I can’t really report on performance. From another message board I frequent, I have only heard good reports on the head though.



Of the 3 bladed broadheads it’s my understanding that the Wensel Woodsman is the best. For one reason it is Teflon coated. The Magnus Snuffer is the same head it just doesn’t have the Teflon coating.
If I was going to go out and buy new broadheads today it would be 125grn. Wensel Woodsman. This is what they say about the head:

“Wensel Woodsman - A long, lean 3-blade broadhead that's premium grade construction throughout. The 3 to 1 cutting ratio has been proven over the years to give maximum penetration. Teflon coated hard carbon steel. Glue-on. $25.95- 6-packâ€



calgarychef1 - my favorite place to pick up broadheads is off of eBay - easy to get them for .50¢ to .60¢ on the dollar. I picked up some of the one piece G5-Motecs there this year.

Capt Jack, Im withya, heavy bows and HEAVY arrows. No whimpy plastic junk for my hunting. I shoot through every bone in an animal, shoulders, spines and leg bones, nothing stops a good arrow.

Can you tell me what the collars do behind the broadheads? Do they help from losing the arrows in the grass after you miss? By the way I went to Ted Nugent's website and he's selling six packs of his broadheads for cheeeep, I boutght 3 packs and with shipping was around 36 bucks american.

thanks

the chef

calgarychef1:
"Can you tell me what the collars do behind the broadheads? Do they help from losing the arrows in the grass after you miss?

Those "collars are a disc of stainless that E.W.(Earle)Bateman punches out on a punch machine. With the way they come - with the edges not sharpened, they are designed to work with a field point on small game. They work very well. They don't usually penatrate all the way but they definetly stop the animal. I take a small file and sharpen the leading edges and put them behind broadheads to add cutting edges. I've still gotten pass throughs with the sharpened Adders behind a Zwickey Eskimo. I haven't shot anything with them behind the G5 Montec yet but I would think they would work just as well.

Yes, they do help keep the arrows from sliding under the grass, sorta like a Judo point but not as well as the spring wires on the Judos.

Hi Guys:

If anybody is shooting a fast bow.... like say 305 fps IBO.... check out these new COC heads called Wac'em... cutting edge 1 & 1/32 in.

I shoot a Mathews MQ32 at 60# 29in draw.... My Easton ACC arrows weigh 384 grains with 100 grain heads.. thats about 6.4 grains per lb.

After trying Wasp SST's, Muzzy, G5's I finally found a broad head, all SS that shoots actually point of aim with my 100 grain field points. Thay ain't cheap $30.00 for three... but they do fly straight with almost no muss or fuss..

Regards... Jim P.

I found them at Bighorn Outdoors for $29.99 for 4.

Well this thread covers a lot of territory. Broadhead theory is a huge and much misunderstood topic. I've been shooting bows for about 50 years and bowhnting almost as long. I started out shooting traditional bows, since back then, there were no non-traditional bows. I tried compounds for a couple years when they first came out and then went back to the trad stuff, which just works better for me. Ask most guys how they picked out the broadhead they use and they will say, "it was on sale, my buddy uses them or some famous guy endorses them", hmmm. I really don't have any use for broadheads with moveable parts, why? Every amimal on the face of the earth up to and including elephants have been killed with fixed blade heads, so why should I pay a lot more for a head that can't be used on large animals? I only use heads I sharpen myself, lots of hunting areas are dusty and edges take a beating in the quiver, so I want to touch them up everyday. Cut on contact heads will out penetrate punchpoint heads, you can't have to much penetration. Shoulder blades on deer and blackbear really aren't that hard to shoot through with the right gear.
Rodger Rothaar is still around, but retired, he sold the Snuffer rights off years ago. I'll be guiding his som on a waterbuffalo hunt in a few days.

We've been beating on this topic pretty hard on some other boards as well.

These are the 3-bladed cut-on-contact broadheads that garnered the most interest.

The most popular is the Magnus Snuffer. But it and the RazorCap both have a vent behind the point which makes them less strong on impact of something hard like a shoulder bone.
The G5 Montec is monolithic(cast) in stainless and a very well made head but the Wensel Woodsman seems to beat them all in design. It has the 3:1 cutting ration- length to diameter. The head is solid and it's teflon coated. Of the 3-bladed design it has the best penetration - pass-through record- as close to a 2-blade design.

The advantage of the 3-blade is it cuts a hole instead of a slot. You get much more bleeding !! If you get a pass through you really get good bleeding.