Gentlemen

I have been thinking about picking up bow hunting since it seems to quite fun and exciting.

Now, the bad this is that bow hunting is forbidden in Sweden, soo it will take place in USA and other places.

What bow shall I get, maker?

What other much needed stuff would you advice?

Type of arrows, heads etc.

are there any good well stocked dealers in USA? Who is the best to deal with

I'm completly green on this, soo bring it on, don't be shy

/ JOHAN

[ 05-16-2003, 13:46: Message edited by: JOHAN ]

First we need to know your interest. Would you rather shoo [/LIST] t a traditonal bow (longbow or recurve) or a compound bow? Both have taken all huntable game on this planet.

Boss
Sorry,
I have been thinking of getting a compound bow.

/JOHAN

I have a Hoyt SportMT and am getting a Havoc. I've heard great reviews about other brands: PSE, Matthews (spellng??), etc.

If this will be your first bow, I would suggest something not too fast also keeping the tension low (40-50 pounds). This will enable your brain to aclimatize to the shock of the arrow's launch (like it or not, your subconscient does this . This will also get you accustommed to hold your handle correctly, to group consistently. If the tension is high, the bow will feel as if it wants to jump out of your hand, and your reflex will be to catch it, by jerking your wrist... the best way not to touch the target!

Another problem with high-tension is that when you will actually be in a hunting situation (IE tracking moose for 3 hours, calling him, stalk, etc) when he will be within strinking range, will you still be able to cock your bow? ... I know I couldn't the first time on a deer, and I looked kind of silly! My pulling arm was shaking, my shoulders were aching, I was embarassed.

You'll see, it's amazing! I started two years ago with the SportMT @ 40 pounds, passed my bow-hunting permit, then crancked it gradually up to 50 pounds, and I've been there ever since. I truely love it!

Start humbly, you'll work your way up.

Good luck,
Guillaume

If you interested in a compound, I agree with keeping the draw wt. low 50# or less. There are always older compounds on E-bay for very resonable prices. Consider an older bow with rounder cams. Also a longer wheel to wheel lenght will be more forgiving.

I had a PSE polaris bow about 10 years ago that was the nicest bow to shoot. The cams were almost round.

Also, don't get carried away with gadgets. A simple fliper rest, a three pin sight, small stablizer and peep sight and your ready.

I'f futrher suggest that you start shooting with your fingers. You can always get a release later.

A few months or so AFTER your shooting is consistant you may what to look at more high tech equip.

Best of luck.

Boss Kongoni

What brands do you recommend. What is important to look for while buying a used bow.

How much would a decent bow cost?

/ JOHAN

As of today there are 318 compound bows on Ebay. One the 1st page one auction has two PSE polaris bows and a nother bow @ $51.

Top of the line new bows by Mathews, Hoytt, PSE can run $500 to $800 U.S.

So, up to $200 for decent used bow is not unreasonable. However, A decent used bow may be found for under $100.

I would plan on having new cables & a string put on. As old strings & cables streach, frey and ware. Most hunters are decent folks ask them for a 2 week inspection period. The biggest concern would be twist in the limbs. Typically, used bows are on the market to make room for new bows.

Johan,

Please allow me to share my opinions with you. I have been bowhunting for 23 years and have killed many deer with many bows. My favorites are the ones made in the 1980s and 90s. These bows have a longer 'valley' at full draw and are easier to handle and more forgiving than many new bows. The new bows don't let off until the very last fraction of an inch of draw, and must be held back against the 'wall' or they will 'grab' you when you don't expect it.

In my area these slightly older bows can be purchased for $100 to $150 and usually come complete with accessories (rest, quiver, sling, counterweights, even arrows). They are great bargains compared with new bows costing $700 to $1000. Two brands I like are Darton and Oneida. These are both made in Michigan and may be a little obscure in other parts of the world. The Oneida bows are rather unusual in design but are extremely smooth shooting and fast. I found a used Darton 'Excel' model a couple weeks ago for $40. I found 2 much older bows at a yard sale tonight for $35. I have a hard time justifying spending megabucks just to have the latest model bow. Just look the used bow over carefully and make sure you shoot it before you buy. I recommend a high performance bow as opposed to a round-wheel bow because you can get high velocity at lighter draw weight with the high performance bow. My 1983 Darton Lightning will shoot over 250 fps at 57 lbs with full length arrows (no overdraw). Buy a good mechanical release to go with your high performance compound bow because it's too hard to be good enough with a finger release. I do not recommend an overdraw for beginners.

After you have a few years experience with your compound and have taken a few animals, then you may want to try a real bow - a longbow or recurve. I switched to hunting with a longbow 2 years ago and it really gives me great satisfaction. I have killed several nice deer with my 70 inch 60 pound longbow, including a couple nice bucks. I want you to know that it takes a lot of practice to become proficient enough to ethically hunt with a longbow. Regardless of what type bow you use, you must be willing to accept and hunt within your limitations. Personally, I do not shoot at deer past 15 or 16 yards with my longbow, and I think 20 yards should be the maximum with any bow regardless of how good the hunter thinks he is or how fast his arrows fly. The buck I killed last October was sniffing the base of the tree I was standing in 15 feet above him. My arrow penetrated the ribcage right next to the spine and continued through the lungs and heart. The deer stumbled 30 yards and dropped dead. It took about 5 seconds. What a rush! There's nothing like it. In the final analysis, your skill with your bow is way more important than which bow you choose.

Sorry for the long post. I am very passionate about bowhunting. Remember, practice a lot and shoot within your sure limitations.

Live well

Johan,
Used bows are like used cars. Your never sure of what the last owner did to it.I would buy a "cheap" bow to start with about $300-$400 with the Carbon arrows,arrow rest,quiver,peep,release,and sight.Buy quality accessories that way if you like hunting this way you can buy the more expensive bow later and use them on it.PSE or High Country are both good in this price range.I'm not sure how you would acquire this bow since you are in Sweden but stay away from the package deals since most of the time they come with cheap junk for a sight.I would only get a 3 pin sight or remove 2 pins to start with since they can confuse a new shooter.Most shots are in the 0-30 yd range so do LOTS OF Practice in the postion you plan to hunt from. If you can,go to a Pro shop and have them fit you and shoot the bow before you buy.Good Luck.

Here is what I have....

www.parkerbows.com

Nice bows for a good price. LIfetime warranty.

Any of your name brand makers market decent bows. Most have a broad range of models and prices to serve every taste and billfold.

I have also shot Hoyt bows and they are very nice as well.

P.S. I am a big fan of the "whisker biscuit" arrowrest. Everyone has their favorite equipment. That is half the fun.

BB - Thanks.

I found when working with new shooters the MOST important thing is to keep things simple to help insure success.

Gentlemen

What does one cam means ?

I have been starting to look around for a used bow and needs to know what damages there can be on them and what I need to look for?

Cheers
/ JOHAN

Johan,

One cam means that the wheel on the upper limb is round with a concentric axle, while the cam on the bottom limb is contoured. The bottom cam does the work of shaping the force-draw curve and facilitating the letoff. Early one-cam bows had no wheel on the top limb. One-cam bows require no synchronization of top and bottom limbs like is required with two-cam bows. One-cam bows seem to be the most popular design today according to my readings. I believe the top selling one-cam bow in the US today is the Matthews brand. One negative trait of one-cam bows is that as the string stretches, the string nocking point moves in relationship to the arrowrest, requiring regular maintenance to maintain perfect adjustment. Many archers simply do not concern themselves greatly with this aspect and just shoot the bow. It's analagous to the rifleman that regularly shoots his hunting rifle to maintain precise zero and MOA grouping versus the guy who sighted in his gun in 1932, has not touched it since, and shoots one or two rounds a year.

When shopping for a used bow, look for twisted limbs, worn cam bearings or axles (canted or sloppy cams/wheels), cracked limbs, uneven limb loading (one bent more than other), limbs sitting crooked in the pocket, badly worn string, cables, or serving (replace before shooting), damage in the string grooves on the cams/wheels, refinishing (covering faults), and modifications to the bow. Compare it with a new one of the same model if possible. Look for quality accessories included in the price. Many used bows are completely setup and ready to shoot/hunt because the previous owner simply must trade in his perfectly good bow for a new bow every year to keep up with the latest technology. Also, shoot the bow and see if you like it. Sometimes a bow just doesn't feel right to me. I only buy bows that feel right.

Live well

Big Redhead

Thanks for the advice. I have been looking around a bit.I think, I will go for a one cam bow since I want a fast bow.

Is there anyone who has a bow for sale on the forum? I want one from the well know makers like high country, Mathews, PSE in good condition.

/ JOHAN

Johan - I know all that speed is tempting. Your're going to learn good form faster on a slower bow (200fps range) than a tempermental speed bow.

And trust me on this, you'll buy a second bow within two years ANYWAY.