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I have about a million questions on arrow selection. Reading the specs of all of the arrows in the Cabelas Catalog only ads to the confusion  I am convinced the local bow shop will push what they have, possibly not what is best for me.I am using a 70lb bow, 31" draw, advertised at 300 FPS IBO. I will be using it for Deer and Elk. I have been practicing with PSE Dominator 300 arrows that came with the bow. I notice that the different arrows have greatly different weights (gpi) and what I think are different diameters although this is not really stated. Is a slightly heavier (and slower) arrow really going to give better penetration? Then there is the "straightness" factor? I will probably use 100 grain broadhead because I have been practicing with 100 grain field points. Sure will appreciate any help out there, and especially appreciate any other "knowledge" you have to share. | ||
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I would go with the 2317 arrow and 125 gr. heads. Light arrows and speed is not the way to go. Heavy arrows will penetrate and break bone that will stop light arrows right now. A heavy arrow from a longbow will out penetrate and out kill those toothpicks most guys use today. The only reason most guys use light fast arrows is because they can't judge distance and they want flat trajectory to make up for lack of skill. I outshoot 90% of 3D shooters with my fingers and I shoot 2419 shafts with 125 gr heads. This arrow will completely penetrate a deer end to end and no elk will stop it either. | |||
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Can you explain the 2317 | |||
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Quote: Aluminum shafts are graded in a 4# code. A 2317 means that the shaft is .23" in diameter and the wall thickness is .0017" thick. All the arrow manufacturers have a chart or calculator that computes the correct "spine" stiffness that you need for the draw length and weight of your bow- whether it's a recurve or a wheel or cam compound. To give you an example- I can shoot either 2018 or 2117 aluminum arrows out of my 55# recurve or my old style 55#, 50%let-off, wheel type compound at my draw length of 31" There is a completely different numbering system for the carbon shafts. | |||
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CaptJack, thanks for information. I hope someone can enlighten me about the carbon arrows. What are the pros and cons of aluminum and or carbon. Do they still make glass? What about wood?  As can be seen, I am at the bottom of the learning curve..... | |||
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Quote: There are basically 3 grades of aluminum arrows. In the old days Easton was it and the 3 grades were the soft low alloy "Swift"s(bend easy); the "XX-75"s - had a little more nickel &a touch of magnesium in them; &the "X-7"s which has much more magnesium & nickel and are much stiffer and much harder to bend. note the "XX-78"s are really "X-7"s camoed for hunting. Cedar shafts are for the traditional- purists- can be great- but definitely for the long bow, self bow, recurve- will not work with a compound... We use solid fiberglass arrows for bowfishing. they're not the straightest or stiffest arrows in the world  but you can't break them when you shoot them though a 100# gar or 40# carp- and you're only shooting them about 15'- 10yds anyway.Carbon arrows come as either a composite where they have a carbon layer around an alloy layer or they are a pure carbon arrow. The early carbon arrows had a problem in hunting. If the arrow broke or splintered it could leave carbon filaments in the animal which can be very hazardous to you health if you ate the carbon filaments. The newer carbon shafts are supposed to have solved this problem. One thing about a carbon arrow- either it is perfectly straight or it's broken. Every arrow manufacturer has an on-line calculator for their arrows. The EastmanKodak of arrows is Easton- http://www.eastonarchery.com/ look under Products and they have a calculator for target, hunting & legecy arrows | |||
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JBoutfishn, CaptJack has it just about covered. I will add that you want to decide on your broadhead and/or weight of your broadhead early. Then look at the charts and decode on a couple aroows. Buy 3 or 6 of several different sizes and see which YOU like the best. Just because the calcularot says (example) 2314's are the best you might find you like the way 2413's fly better. Remember just like firearms each bow is different and some are picker than others. Make sure you shoot a couple different brands of carbon in the decision making process. Make sure you are using the same weight field points as the broadhead you are thinking about. After a season or so you will have a better understanding of what you like and can experiment more as you learn. Hope this helps! | |||
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ACCs are the highest quality arrows I have ever used. | |||
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JBoutfishn, Contact Perry at Archer's Advantage, Redondo Beach, CA. He produces a software that will enable you to work up the specifications of the ideal arrow for your setup. All it takes is some time to enter the specifics of your bow. Numerous shooting buddies and I have been using it for years. You will enter the data once and be able to tweak the results by specifying different variables, i.e. arrow length, point weight. Nearly all of the current arrow selections are offered. His web site is: www.archersadvantage.com. | |||
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