I am quite frustrated! Having practices with field tips for 5 weeks now (and @ putting them all in the pack of cigs @ up to 60 yards), switched to braodheads this week, and things have gone to shit!



I just can't get them to fly straight (and this is @ 20 yards...)

Looks like the broadheads might be plaining. The other issue that you might be getting into is your arrows being underspined. A little more information would help a great deal. What are you using for broadheads, what wight, Bow setup, poundage on the bow, spine and length of arrows you are using.

Thanks for the feedback

They're Montec CS 100's
Its a Helium @ 70
CE Maxima - Blue Streak Select 350's

Sounds like this is not a spine issue, especially if you were using the same arrow with fp with no problems.
The first thing to do is make sure your bow is tuned perfectly. Even if it was shooting fine with FP a poorly tuned bow with shoot broadheads like the groups in the picture.
Second thing is that your fletching is not stabilizing the arrow with the BH on it. All of my hunting arrows have 4in helical vains. Strait vains can add to planing as well.
Last thing, it all else goes well and you are still shooting poor groups, switch to mechanical. They will act more like the FP and they WORK, just dont use Rage.

Took it to the shop and they're saying its tuned fine.
They says its a torque issue - that I'm applying when I draw back - not with palm perfectly flat to the riser... which is fine indoor, but more problematic with big gloves on during the winter...

Should I just switch to mechanicals? If so, what do you recommend?

quote:

Originally posted by Orvar:
Took it to the shop and they're saying its tuned fine.
They says its a torque issue - that I'm applying when I draw back - not with palm perfectly flat to the riser... which is fine indoor, but more problematic with big gloves on during the winter...

Should I just switch to mechanicals? If so, what do you recommend?

Definitely a a planning issue, I doubt that its you torquing the bow to cause that kind of erratic arrow flight, my buddy experienced a similar problem with fixed heads and the shop said the exact same thing, in the end it was a tuning issue, some shops may be good but the devil is in the details when it comes to getting some fixed broad heads to fly. I myself prefer a mechanical, but my bow will basically shoot anything I feed it, If you are dead set on a fixed broad head try a few other brands, that may solve the problem. Alot of great heads on the market, the new muzzy's have had good flight at extended ranges, but I be slinging rages for most of the year.

If you can get fixed blades to shoot fine stick with them. Today's ultra fast bows compound any issue you may have with using broadheads. I think mechanical more accurately represent the flight of a field point. I use Grimm Reaper razortip-NON whitetail special. I have also used the Rocket Ultimate Steel 100 in the past with good results.

I'm perfectly happy practicing to eliminate an issue - but this is ridiculous.
+ I don't have the knowledge to really tune, better than shop.

Maybe just go to mechanicals?

Couldn't hurt.

Mechanicals are the easy way out. If you REALLY want to get your bow tuned properly, and do not know how to do it, take it to a bow shop and get it tuned.

Also, make certain your broadheads are aligned on the shafts....

I used fixed blade heads for 25 years - NAP thunderheads & Steel Force, but when I switched to my latest bow - a Matthews Drenalin several years back, I could not get the fixed blade heads to fly properly or group well. I suspect it was as others have said, the higher speed made tuning more critical. I had always tuned my own bows, but neither I nor the pro shop could get this one to group well with the fixed blade heads I was using at the time. I switched to expandable heads and have been very pleased. If I use the same weight as my field points, they fly to the same point of impact, & have been devastating on deer.

Mechanicals are not allowed here so I have been using fixed blades also. I went to 100gr Muzzy's with a shorter blade as the 125's blade stuck out a bit more and has a larger surface area, and seemed to affect accuracy more.
I don't know enough about tuning.

Thanks guys!

I did take it to the shop for tuning - they said it was spot on (which isn't surprising, since they did it 6 months ago). But, the shop was also quite packed, and I think there wasn't really the focus there could have been. Might take it in again...

Otherwise, just gonna order some mechanicals and see.

not knowing your shop or their expertise i wont call them out on anything. but if your bh's shoot like that, it looks like a tuning issue to me.

if you like fixed blades, you might look at either the Atom broadhead, or Ramcats. i shoot the atom and love them. ramcats are supposed to fly extremely well for a fixed blade due to their design. though i do not have personal experience with them, a good friend of mine does and loves them. he is an excellent archer.

if you want to test how well your bow is tuned... take one of your arrows and designate it a tuning arrow. strip off the fletchings. weigh them and put an equal weight of tape on the rear of the shaft to keep the FOC and weight of the shaft identical to the rest of your arrows.

put a field point on there and shoot the bare shaft. do it first at 10 yards, then 20, then 30 if you can. a perfectly tuned bow will shoot it with the rest of your fletched arrows. if it does not, your bow is not tuned, OR your form is bad and you need a little coaching.

if you want to know more about bare shaft tuning just ask, its my favorite way of tuning a bow.

Definitely a tuning issue. And DON'T switch to expandables just to cover up a tuning issue. That is like turning up the radio so you don't hear your car clanking.

I'm partial (and admit it openly) but I'd try the Dirt Nap DRT's. www.dirtnapgear.com

Spend some time paper tuning your bow...something isn't right. Have you tried several arrows....maybe an insert is misaligned.

Can you tell us how many pounds is your draw weight, what arrow you are shooting(length, brand and spine), and what broadhead your shooting?

What is your draw length. I think you might be over spined.

I shoot a Heli-M at 70lbs. ACC Pro 390s 28" DL

I still have to tune each and every Muzzy 100GR 3 blade to a shaft. Spin each arrow with the broadhead on - any wobble needs to be adjusted. Heat the insert enough to turn it until the wobble is gone. Sometimes I have to lightly sand an insert.. Some just wont tune.. Once tuned I shoot each one and mark each broadhead to each arrow based on how well it shoots..

I also shoot Wasp Jak Hammer mechanicals - they fly perfect every time!

I would think if it was a torgue issue you would torque your field points just as much..

I would bet on arrow to broadhead alignment...

http://www.bowhuntingmag.com/2...cs_broadhead_flight/

http://www.eastonarchery.com/i...are/tuning_guide.pdf

What shof said above, take the bow to a bow shop and get help tuning it.
I did and my field points and fixed blade heads hit in the same hole.

Sounds to me like something is out of sink. Are you using a fall away rest, trigger release? I have used 125 grain 3 blade Muzzy broad heads for years with great results, yes its a little big for deer but I think the added weight helps stabilize or offset any speed issues and no problems shooting out to 70 yards. I always mark my arrows 1-3 using only # 1 for hunting! HAVE YOU PAPER TUNED YOUR BROAD HEADS AT THE BOW SHOP you will find out very quickly if your bow is tuned or not. Don't give up and keep me posted!

Made a quick switch to Muzzy's for a weekend in the woods... and scored @ 47yds on this big guy!

Ovar, ya u did! Way to go man, love the character of the split brow tine. There's just something special about using a bow... for me its the up close and personal aspect that I love. No long range led throwing there!

Congrats!!!!