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Re: Carbon shafts from Bass Pro Shops
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Eterry-

Don't take this the wrong way, but switching to carbon arrows is not a replacement for practice. Remember that lower weight arrows are faster at the price of increased vibration, which equals increased bow noise. As posted above, countless deer have (and continue to be) taken with aluminum and even wood shafts. Practicing in real conditions (such as out of a tree stand) at practical distances on a regular basis improves muscle memory, accuracy and confidence.

That being said, I have no input on BPS. I shoot Carbon Express arrows, which work great for me. If you switch to carbon, you will find the arrows much more bend/break resistant than aluminum. Avoid the camo shafts if you are worried about losing them - I like the black shafts - never noticed game looking at me because they saw the shafts.

Depending on the shaft, you may end up with lighter arrows than your aluminums. Lighter arrows will gain speed, but remember that by switching shafts you will need to re-tune your bow.

Unless you are confident in re-tuning your bow, etc., I might recommend purchasing half a dozen from your local bow shop, and get the bow re-tuned right there and then. You can then leave the place confident that the bow/arrow combination is correct and tuned, so mistakes cannot be blamed on the equipment.

If you are confident in doing things yourself, don't be afraid to check on eBay for arrow/shaft prices.

Good luck!
 
Posts: 706 | Location: near Albany, NY | Registered: 06 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Eteery
I bought a dozen of the carbons from Bass Pro about 4 or 5 years ago and have been shooting the holy heck out of them and they just won't break. I have re-fletched them at least 3 times and was shooting them last night with broadheads into sand bunkers. I have had the $120/doz. ACC and will tell you these cheep arrows shoot well and hold up well too. I have been impressed with these arrows. I guess you just don't get what you pay for anymore. Meaning you can't judge a product by the price.

Also, Boss, you always aim LOW not high, always. If it is up-hill or down hill aim slightly low, never high. Example, if the target is 40 yards uphill or 40 yards down hill via your straight line or range finder measurement, but say the LEVEL distance to the target is only 35 yards you would shoot as if the target is 35 yards not 40, meaning you aim low. It is not the distance the arrow travels to the target that affects trajectory it is the distance gravity is pushing down on it or the level distance to the plane of the target. An extreme example is the target is 100 yards straight up or straight down, does not matter, the aim point is point blank or zero yards.
 
Posts: 45 | Location: Wisconsin, USA | Registered: 26 December 2003Reply With Quote
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