I have just started shooting my bow again, and whilst I am tempted to trade it in for one of the newer, lighter (faster too?) bows I saw in a shop a while back, I would like to see how I can get to shooting with this one first.

I would like to get some feedback on what you can do to tune your arrows for straight flight.

When I moved back to 40yards, I could actually see some pretty bad fishtailing going on in flight.

I shoot Easton XX75 2317's and have some XX78's that I planned to save as hunting arrows, while I use the XX75's for practise until I need to replace them.

The rest is a no-name affair with a two flat metal fingers, one supports the arrow from underneath, the other on the side. These can be adjusted to some extent.

I shoot with a release aid and there are several rubber beads on the string which were supposed to act as vibration dampeners.

What are the first steps toward true arrow flight?

http://www.fastestbows.com/articles/phillips/paper_tune.htm

Here are some other good articles:

http://www.fastestbows.com/articles/articles_tech.htm

I'm going to copy and paste a post I made at bowsite about the way I tune. It may grit some archers and to those it does, I extend an invitation to shoot a session.

>>>-------------------->

ncboman's tune notes.

If you even question the spine, you ain't shootin stiff enough arrows.

Paper tuning is useless as 90% of bows properly tuned, show untuned thru paper.

Bare shaft tuning is a waste of shafts and can be dangerous (IMO).

I line the arrow by eye and nockpoint by bowsquare and then shoot at 20yds with fieldpoints and then broadheads and tune the two to hit together or very close. I adjust my rest rather than nock point, but am precision tuning nockpoint at this point. Then I back up to 60yds and do it again, concentrating on any horizontal(left/right) differences more than vertical differences.

I use the 20yd tune more for nock point setting and the 60yd tune more for left/right setting.

From there I may sweet tune a little but generally if bhs and fps are holding the same vertical plane at 60yds and the same horizontal plane at 20yds, the bow will shoot very well and be quiet about it too.

You can feeeeel the energy going into the arrow from a welltuned bow.

Flimsy or borderline flimsy arrows are the root of all sorts of problems that are easily done away with by shooting stiff arrows to begin with.

ncboman,
Good inforation

Off topic: Did you take those pictures?
WONDEFUL old Minuteman shots!

Hi Amos,

thanks, God has really blessed me in the bowshooting department.

Actually the pics are of Titan II missiles. I once was fortunate enough to have served on a launch crew for these big bores of the missile world so they have a certain attraction to me.

Funny, when I was on crew duty we were not allowed to take pics of the inside of a missile silo but now the pics are everywhere.

Impressive pics but in real life the missile silos convey an erie but awesome state of mind. I miss em in a way.

express, if you E-mail me I will send you the proper tuning method for perfect flight with both broadheads and field points. I worked it out years ago and NAP uses a version because I sent a friend there the info. jameswbrm@aol.com
Anyone else is also welcome to get it.
NAP couldn't use the full version because I copyrighted it.

I have only one response for my bow tuning method which is free. Come one guys! Mark White knows what I am talking about and can put in a word about it. I am not asking for anything.