hello all,
I have always used a two blade broadhead when hunting, this year i am thinking of changing to a 3 blade broadhead. My question is, Do the three blades fly as true as the two blades?

Im sure most people would argue that 3 blades fly truer than 2 purely from the point of view of symetry in flight.
I like you shoot big 2 bladed broadheads on game for the better penetration and durability. As far as accuracy goes....well ive shot them out to 60 Meters on the same target as my field points and they group as well. I now shoot Tusker broadheads exclusively with offset fletches. No helicals nessesary.
If your on a good thing stick to it!

I shoot three blades at deer sized game and they fly fine. As long as your arrows are tuned properly you should be able to switch between like weighted heads without any difference in flight. I Alsway carry a couple of two blade arrows just in case something big gives me a chance.

the chef

Will a three blade do the trick on an Elk, shooting with a Bowtech tribute at 78#

Hell yes it will.

quote:

Originally posted by redfern:
Will a three blade do the trick on an Elk, shooting with a Bowtech tribute at 78#

I used a 125gr Slick Trick 4 blade with my Tribute @ 75#



This the hole a 4 blade Slick Trick made in an Impala.



They fly like field points out to 80 yards...

Might be worth your while to have a look at them as well....

Though plenty of critters have been taken with 3 blade heads I'd stay with 2 blades.There are quite a few big name bowhunters doing endorsements for all types of heads but they all go back to trad style two blades when hunting dangerous game.The one you stake your life on is the one you really believe in.Plain'n simple.

I have shot the Montec's and the Hellrazors and both shoot very well. I haven't had the chance to put them through meat yet however.

With your set up either should do the job well, as will the Slick Tricks as Gerhard pointed out.

The only issue I have with the three blade heads is getting them as sharp as the two or four blade removable blade heads. They can get there but it seems to take quite a bit longer to get them there. With the Tricks or Magnus or similar blades it only takes a few minutes to have them scary sharp.

I like Gerhard can highly recommend the Tricks, especially the Razor tricks. They zip through a hog like a hot knife through butter and that isn't the easiest critter to punch a hole through.

Good luck with your choice and your hunt. Pick one that shoots good and go for it.

4 blade=slick tricks, more cutting surface, tough as nails, accurate, and quiet, what more do you need???

quote:

Originally posted by fgulla:
4 blade=slick tricks, more cutting surface, tough as nails, accurate, and quiet, what more do you need???

Penetration!!!Granted for a lot of game 3 and 4 blade heads are fine but there are times when they just don't make it.

quote:

Originally posted by Bernie P.:

quote:

Originally posted by fgulla:
4 blade=slick tricks, more cutting surface, tough as nails, accurate, and quiet, what more do you need???

Penetration!!!Granted for a lot of game 3 and 4 blade heads are fine but there are times when they just don't make it.

The only time I will not look at anything else than a Slick Trick broad head is when hunting pachyderms with the bow.

I have yet to hunt an animal with the bow that a Slick Trick on a 450gr arrow with a 70# bow will not give enough penetration.

The only time I did not get a full pass trough is when I hit the posit shoulder joint and then the broad head also destroy the shoulder joint.

I will not hesitate to take on an elk size animal with the following combo:

125gr Slick Std

total arrow weight 450gr

Shot out of an 70# bow.

The statement that two blade heads always result in more penetration than three blade heads is often true BUT not always true. Both kinds of heads will get stopped cold if heavy enough bone is struck.

Bleeder blades were added to the old Bear Razor Heads for a reason. They improved the blood trail. A wound that is more than just a slit does not stop bleeding very quickly.

How far the arrow travels after it sails through the animal is irrelavent. How much blood you have to follow to retrieve you game is important.

If I know I can shoot through the animal with my gear and a three or four bladed head that's what I use.

The bleeder blades were also designed to break off if they encountered bone giving better penetration. Probably the best of both worlds when you get right down to it. Ole Fred Bear was way ahed of his time.

the chef

Thanks for the advice, it will come in handy in September when I decide what broad head to use.

I base my comments on what I read in Dr.Ashby' broadhead tests on African game.That's going back quite a few years.At that time the 2 blade trad heads results in all categories were far superior to any of the 3,4 blade heads he tested and there were quite a few.Certainly there have been improvements since.I would very much like to see such a comparison done again with the new designs.

I've been shooting a bow for over 30 years and have pretty much shot every type of head-arrow combination. We went from thick shaft, heavy broadhead combos to light short shafts,, overdraws, carbon shafts etc. The modern compund bow has changed a lot of the rules. The quality of the bows, shafts, and broadheads,, most anything works on most North American Animals! Most are fast, accurate, and deadly. I have shot 125 grn, three blade Muzzys in Africa and killed everything I shot at. I have gone back and on my last trip, with eland and giraffe and zebra on my wish list,, and seeing how well the 2 bladed blades worked there with my friends I switched. I shot a 2 blade,, with bleeder, 125 grn Steelforce and blew through everything,, even the 1800 lb eland at 35 yards. One of the guys was shooting the slicktricks and did just as well. Shoot what shoots well in your bow, put it on the boilermaker and you got yourself an animal on the ground. I was shooting a Matthew switchback 70lb,, 350 carbon express shafts,,,
I do like the slight penetration difference with the 2 blade on the really large stuff though,,,probably more mental that fact driven

Because I don't like the look of 2 blades I killed all my african game with RazorCaps, a 3 blade design which is easy to get very sharp. Buffalo, elephant and even giraffe (the thickest hide) were no problem.
That old 2 blade legend has had its day.

All heads fly straight if they are true and mounted straight and on a well tuned arrow. I have shot and seen lots more of all kinds of heads shot into some VERY big and tough animals. I figured some things out,enventually,no one head is best for everything. Penetration may not be the only thing, but without enough of it NOTHING else is going to matter. You can have the biggest meanest, sharpest, most expensive head on the planet, but if it dosn't get in to where it needs to be, its worse than worthless. Any animal on the face of the earth can be killed with a $4 two blade head. A two blade head cuts one long slit, a three blade head, cuts three short slits, none of them cut a hole more than any other. I've shot animals with narrow two blade heads that SHOT huge amounts of blood out and shot animals with three and four blade heads that bled almost nothing externally. I've skinned out animals that were killed with two blade heads that would not have been killed with the identical shot and a three blade head. This is the one most important thing I have learned out selecting which type of broadhead to use, USE THE BIGGEST HEAD THAT YOU CAN BE REASONABLY CERTAIN WILL GO ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE BIGGEST ANIMAL THAT YOU ARE LIKELY TO GET A SHOT AT.