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As a follow-up to the Sight Poll, I've noticed the various Sights from all the manufacturers have a wide range of Mounting Bracket Length. I understand having the Sight Pins farther away from the Peep helps Accuracy(Longer Sight Radius). And at the same time, I'd think you do not want the Sight extending ahead of the Bow, which would make it more prone to accidental Bumps. I'm tough enough on stuff as it is. Are there additional reasons for the variance in the Bracket Length that I've just not thought of? And which do you prefer, the Longer or Shorter Mounting Brackets? ----- I've also noticed some Sights have "Micrometer Style"(easily changed) adjustability. I can see where that would be nice if a person is trying lots of different Arrow Combinations(Shafts, Broad Heads, Wraps or not, Illuminated Nocks, different Vanes, etc.). But that Style might be a bit more fragile than the kind where the adjustments - Screw-Down. What do you all think is the better Style to have, Micrometer Style or Screw-Down? I can also see where having a Micrometer Style to use when Fine Tuning everything would be good and then switch to a more Rugged Style for Hunting. And in the overall scheme of things, they are really not too expensive. | ||
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Well, I have both types--a Carolina Archery Products 3-pin on my Hoyt which is primary right now, and an Apex 5-pin on my Matthews, which is backup. I think the simple sight is better for me, and it is quieter, or at least that bow is quieter. Here's the simple sight: Here's the one with micro adjustments except mine has the long bracket, which fits into a dovetailed base on the riser: An old pilot, not a bold pilot, aka "the pig murdering fool" | |||
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I had never really given it much thought, but there is indeed quite a range of adjustment "forward & back" with most sights. My guess would be that it is needed to accommodate the many different types of risers/brace heights on the various bow makes. My Mathews, for example, has a good bit of "deflex" in the riser - low brace height & a need for the sight to be moved well forward just to be even with the limb bolts & the "front edge" of the bow. My older PSE had very little deflex & a high brace height - sight was back more in the mounting bracket, & still even with the "front edge" of the bow. As far as Micrometer asdjustments, I would go with solid & quiet over precision adjustable. Once the bow is tuned & set up, you will likely never mess with the sights. The exception would be if your desired broadhead did not have the same impact point as your practice points. It might be useful to switch back & forth. I just keep tuning (maybe switching broadheads) until field points & hunting heads have virtually the same POI. | |||
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What your going to find is when looking through your peep, you will see one of three things, 1) the outside of the sight ring is obscured 2) the outside of the sight ring is filling the edges of your peep so it is easily centered 3) the outside of the sight ring appears smaller than your sight ring which makes it hard to keep centered while keeping your pins on target. What most like to see when at full draw and looking through their peep, is the outer edges of the sight ring aligning with the inner diameter of the peep which keeps things aligned so you only then need to concentrate on which pin, needs to be where, on the target. Least thats the way most of the folks I know like it. The extra length or adjustment allows you to use either a larger or smaller peep, while being able to move the sight closer or further so it appears bigger or smaller. Hope this makes since. Mike / Tx | |||
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Much obliged for your alls input. | |||
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Mke/Tx--you sound like my primary marksmanship instructor-- An old pilot, not a bold pilot, aka "the pig murdering fool" | |||
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