As most of you know, I just recently switched to a release for 2 of my bows. (last fall.) I was putting the release on the string. I didn't shoot all summer because of the heat and bugs (WV black flies) and when I took out my bow the string broke on my third shot. I made a new string and switched to a loop.
My normal tuning method will allow the broadheads and field points to hit the same place at all ranges. I can't do it with the loop! I am using 30" 2317 shafts with 125 gr. Snuffers, Lazer Pro's and Thunderheads. Paper tuning gives me a slight right tear that I can not get rid of. I made sure my shaft is on center and no weight change from 70 to 80# will change the right tear. Moving the rest (Trapdoor) in and out does no good either. Different shafts, point weight, or lengths does not get rid of it either.
The funny thing is that at all of the settings and bow weights, my arrows shoot very good, tight groups with the exception of a change of the point of impact. I settled on 78# and I am breaking 2" balloons at 40 yd's, most times touching the arrows together with 2 different broadheads. There is no fishtail to the arrows and I have perfect settings from 10 to 40 yd's.
However, my field points hit low right, group tight, fly straight and I am shooting holes through my vanes. Changing from 100 through 145 gr. field points does not change the point of impact or groups. STRANGEST THING I EVER SEEN!
With the release directly on the string or with my fingers, I can tune to the same point of impact with field points and broadheads. Why is the loop changing this? (I made the loop very small.)
I shot 6 hours the first and second days and 4 hours the 3rd day until I was having trouble pulling the darn thing. (I'm 68 and can't last as long.) I tried everything, even 150 gr. heads. They fishtailed a little but still hit the bullseye. A little tuning would have straightened them out, but I don't want to turn the bow down and I only have three of these heavy heads. Talk about impact!
To practice, I will have to use nothing but broadheads which is impractical.

First make sure your string has stopped stretching (sounds like you've almost worn it out again, so that's probably not an issue!)

Once I get close on the paper tear I start worrying about the groups, not the paper tear. With a string loop you will tend to see every tiniest bit of nock travel or bow torque reflected on the paper. Just don't worry about that last fraction of an inch of paper tear.

I pick a draw weight, broadhead etc. and get matching field tips. Then I shoot a group with the field tips and one with the BH. Then I adjust the rest to bring the BH group onto the field tip group. (The BH group will move very rapidly with very tiny rest adjustments.) Recheck both groups after you start to get close. After you get the groups right on top of each other you change the sights to match the groups.

Don, I decided not to mess with it any more and to just shoot broadheads. I went out today and found I could only pull it enough for 2 shots. Thought I would pull myself out of my shoes. I didn't rest my muscles after 3 days of shooting.
I had a 2" balloon at 20 and a 3" balloon at 40 yd's. I broke both with Snuffers. I will shoot field points out of my other bows. This one shoots too good as is. My bows are all Brownings with 65% let off. No trouble holding but drawing is a different story. At my age, I need a week to recover. On top of that, I used my Bowflex on my back, shoulders and chest.
When I was 13, I was shooting a 55# Bear Kodiak. In my early years, I could hold two 55# bows in my hand and draw both strings to full draw. NOW! Let me tell you, old age is hell but I feel good about still being able to shoot 80# bows. Just have to recover longer until the muscles heal. Not shooting all year takes a toll. Being from Ohio and now living by Harpers Ferry WV, I can't take the heat and humidity all summer. I need to buy a Block and shoot in the basement.

Don, I do almost the same thing as you, but I use the bow weight to bring the broadhead to the field point. Once I am on center with my arrow I don't like to move the rest any more towards the bow. My fletch is already close to touching the window and funny things happen when in past center.
Strange thing about the loop was that as I adjusted the weight to move the broadhead, the field points also moved. This never happens with fingers or when I put the release on the string.

Hey, use what works for you!

It's been my experience, though, that when tuning the BHs into the FTs by moving the rest, that only a TINY adjustment is usually needed to move the arrow strike by 6" at 20 yards.

I'm 53 and I know what you mean about taking it easy between sessions. I shoot all year 'round off my back deck after dark, using flood lights in the yard. I've been shooting 65# for years and just got an 80# Allegiance. I can shoot it just a few dozen times every other day.

I also have a 100# Mathews Safari. I cannot even begin to draw it at max.

bfr: I use a block in the basement year round. One thing you need to do however. Make sure you put a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood or belting backed by plywood behind the block. I put the backboard about a foot behind the block. If you group well, the second arrow will go right through the block at basement ranges.

I had the exact same problem you are having. I switched to a loop and always get a slight right tear in the paper. I tried changing the poundage on the bow, stiffer arrows, changing point weight etc.. to no avail. I came to the same conclusion you did. I switched to broaheads and shoot them exclusively for the last week or two before the season.

JD and Elkhunter, thanks. I knew I wasn't crazy yet, maybe too much ridge ripple but not crazy!
Good idea backing up a Block.

If I were you, and my broadheads were shooting a tight group at 40 yards (and at 30 and 20), I wouldn't worry about anything.

You said that your field points shoot a tight group also, but not at the same point of impact. You can practice most of the time with them, just live with the fact that they will not be "bullseyes", but as long as they are grouped there is no need to worry. As the season approached, simply shoot the broadheads a few more times to ensure that you are still in the bullseye.

Not sure if this came into your calculations, but adding a string loop may have shortened the length you pull the string back. This could cause many changes in your bows performance if the string is not being fully drawn.

Good luck.

Erict, I draw to the stop all the time. The loop only added 1/2" to the draw and it was easy to just move my anchor a little. I notice that the loop always swings to the left on the string. I wonder if that is what makes the right tear in paper.
The broadheads fly perfect. I can live with it.

One little fact about a string loop on a hunting bow, they are more trouble than they are worth most of the time!

Another point, a 1/2-inch in draw may not sound like much but it's something you can't adjust out by changing Anchor Point, it takes equipment change. The draw length needs to be changed on the Bow, or the release must be changed to a shorter nocking neck. Overdrawing the bow for a right hander will always give you right zingers because your wrist, forearm and elbow are no longer inline with the string and Arrow from nock to tip. This causes string torque with high letoff bows. Everyone only has one proper draw length for a given Bow, and it's determined by his or her physical profile.

I did try a shorter draw setting on the bow and it did not change the right tear. I did not like the feel of the bow. I also could not group as well. That half inch was the same as going from side of mouth to an under chin target anchor. All will agree the under chin anchor is better alignment then the side of mouth hold. I am very comfortable at full draw with a straight back release and the bow goes straight foreward.
I know it doesn't make sense adding 1/2" to my anchor instead of shortening the draw, but there is a completely different feel to it.

quote:

I know it doesn't make sense adding 1/2" to my anchor instead of shortening the draw, but there is a completely different feel to it.

I can understand that. I uses to use the under chin target anchor also, but fast ran out of sight window when using it on a hunting bow and a fast setup. Most New Bows have a much larger sight window now days and this problem is not as bad as it use to be.

The main point I was getting at was, there is only one optimal draw length for a given bow for each archer. I know I'm going to have some disagree with me here on this, but a person's physical features should determine proper draw length and anchor point. Here's a good test to determine if you have selected the proper draw length.

Have someone lay an Arrow parallel from the tip of the elbow and along the forearm to the bowstring while you are at full draw. If the nocked arrow, wrist, forearm, and elbow is not parallel and in the same plane from elbow tip to nocked arrow tip then adjust your anchor point till it is just one strait line. If your draw is to long then the elbow will tend to swing behind the line (which is most common) and if to short will swing in front of you. Another words you would have a curve in the line. Once you learn exactly what your anchor length is then you adjust the bow for that draw length. Not many of us are Shooting Machines and the more forgiving you have your setup the better you will shoot when the heat is on and your shooting form goes to hell in a hand basket.