28 gauge Hornady 366 and old time fiber/cork wadding
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I am going to buy a 28 Ga. I have been loading 12,16 and 20 for years. Presently use MEC 9000 series units. I am considering a Hornady 366 for the 28. I have a couple of questions for anyone using the 366:

1. How well does the 366 handle the non plastic fiber/cork wadding? I will primarily be using this type of wadding?

2. The spent shell ejection appears that it could create a pile up with the 366. Is that a valid concern? I would prefer not to cut holes for funnels and drop tubes as my bench has shelving and doors underneath.

I could just purchase another MEC. However they seem to be about $150 or so more expensive than the 366. I would rather put that amount into components etc if the above concerns prove to be moot.

Any other observations regarding the 366 that you might think useful to me would be appreeciated.

Posts: 32 | Registered: 30 May 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of Chris Lozano
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I have all four gauges in a 366.
The 28 works like a dream.

Never had a problem with the shells hitting the table. After about 100 i just stop and box them up.

Cant help with the fiber wads. I only use Claybuster wads.
Posts: 704 | Location: Michigan USA | Registered: 27 September 2008Reply With Quote
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Thanks chris. I just bought the gun so now I need to locate a reloader. I think I would like to give the 366 a try. I use plastic and fiber wadding in my 20 and 16 loads. I am assuming I might want to do the same in the 28. Possibly even mostly fiber. It is difficult to find anyone that uses fiber these days. IF I do they might use a 366 or not. It is good to know finished shells do not log jam.
Posts: 32 | Registered: 30 May 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of buffybr
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I also have 366 loaders for all 4 skeet gauges.

I modified all of my loaders so the finished shell don't drop. I cut the steel ring that keeps the hulls from falling off the shell index plate. I cut it just before the shot drop station, then rotated the cut off ring to the left a little more than the width of the shell, and drilled holes through the ring to re-attach it to the base.

This gives me an opening at the shot drop station, should I need to correct a shell where the wad didn't go in right, and the rotated ring blocks the finished shell drop hole. I also made quick removable plugs to block the open ring space at the shot drop station, but they are usually not needed.

Even when I was reloading 10k shells per year, I've always boxed my shells, so I don't use the finished shell drop.

I've also always used the one piece wads, like Claybuster. They are so much easier than fiber wads! With the auto indexing of the 366 loaders, It would be awkward to seat multiple wads like a fiber over powder wad, then a shot cup.

Since I quit competing in registered Trap and Skeet, I've been mostly shooting 3/4 ounce 12 gauge loads, so my 20 and 28 gauge loaders don't get as much use as they used to.

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Posts: 1496 | Location: Bozangeles, MT | Registered: 14 February 2006Reply With Quote
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I also note the point re plastic wads. But many places here in UK..for bird hunting...require fibre wads only.
Posts: 6761 | Location: United Kingdom | Registered: 18 November 2007Reply With Quote
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If you have never loaded on any other press, then you may like the 366. I bought one in 20 ga after using a Ponsness Warren and never could get a feel for it. It felt like junk to me and I sold it to a guy that liked them. It is all relative to what you are used to. Personally, I like Spolar.
Posts: 261 | Location: Clyde Park, MT | Registered: 29 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of richj
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Haven't used my 12ga press in years. Dad had it mounted to a workbench , the shells fell thru a hole in the bench top into a shotgun ammo case box (when a case was 20 boxes)

Posts: 5154 | Location: NY, NY | Registered: 28 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Thanks to all for the replies.
Posts: 32 | Registered: 30 May 2008Reply With Quote
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