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After reading the thread about the buggered screw and Loctite, I need more education. I have almost always used a small drop of blue Loctite on my scope mounting screws. They have always broken free with minimal pressure so far. Are the negative comments saying to forget using loctite period? Or exactly what is the time to use Loctite? Hard times create strong men. Strong men create good times. Good times create weak men. And, weak men create hard times. | ||
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Often people use wrong color As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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I have always used blue Loctite, too, and I have never had a problem removing screws either. What are the alternatives? | |||
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I have never used loctite. Here is a piece of info for you...wanna know what Talley recommends...oil. Clean and de-grease your screws and screw holes. Put a tiny drop of gun oil on your finger tips. Roll the screw on your slightly oiled finger tip and tighten into hole. Mike  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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Yup, an  guy taught me that back when I was not an guy. | |||
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Almost no place on a firearm of any type should have Loctite, but if you need it, use purple, 222MS (Miniature Screw) only; no blue, no red, no green. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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Gents, I seem to recall an old article, in Precision Shooting magazine, that "explained" the use of oil-only on firearm screw threads. I remember the oil's lubrication while tightening......but flowing away from high pressure thread contact, hence "locking" the screw in place. Upon loosening, you'll notice the typical screw "pop". Anyone remember the article?? BTW....I'll admit liking to use clear fingernail polish to fix trigger screw adjustments. Years ago, my wife was wondering where all the polish went!! Hope this helps. Kevin | |||
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Never had any problems using medium or low strength thread lockers. For really small threads I use low strength, not medium. And of course, I use torque screwdriver with properly set torque. Jiri | |||
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A tried and true method is to tighten up the screw, then with the blade in the slot, whack the handle with a hammer..you'll be able to take up another 1/8-1/4 turn. You may have to give light repeated blows while applying torque to later loosen it. Never had one come loose even on 500 Jeffery | |||
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Ive used red locktite, but mostly Brownells glass on screw under serious circumstances such as on Safari or elk camp...and on heavy recoiling rifles, its not a problem, I have a kitchen butane gun with a tiny flame..just touch the tiny flame to the screw and you will quickly see a seeping of melt, keep a little pressure on the screwdriver and the screw will move and you can just screw it out..takes about half a second. If you don't have a torch then heat a screw driver red hot and hold it in the screw slots with a little pressure until the screw moves then twist it out...At home just do the same, clean the screw holes with a tap and use a new screw or one of brownells over size same size screw designed for that problem. If there is anything glass or a bigger hammer can't fix I have yet to find it!!  A small screw should be tapped with a hammer as it tightens, but careful as its not to hard to twist one of those little puppys in half, when that happens its a damn shame!  Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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Because I without fail use two tube epoxy glue (Araldite in our neck of the woods) to mount bases I also apply this to the screw threads and a dab in the screw hole. The bases and screws never ever come loose and there is no opportunity for water to seep under the bases and cause rusting to rifle, steel bases or screws. I have never found the need for another method of scope base mounting and any slight discrepancy in contour between base and receiver is taken care of by the epoxy glue. To remove bases heat the base and screw heads with a small pencil flame and the epoxy softens. You will never have a rusted or stuck screw. To remove the epoxy from the receiver heat with flame and brush off with soft bronze brush, doesn't affect bluing. As to the buggered screw in the other post I would have punch the head to restore the slot, pencil flame heated the head, and then removed. Any loctite will soften with flame heat. BTW blue loctite is made for screws that may need removing without heat. Always best to tap screw drivers when loosening tight screws as the torque is applied to hold the blade in the slot, same as a dedicated impact driver does. | |||
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I turn away customer scope replacements or installs if they used red loctite. Pain in arse to get undone. I have yet to see a screw come loose on any mounting system where the oil method of locking the screw didn't hold. I take that back i did see one weaver base and rings come loose on a 300 RUM the guy shot exclusively from a led sled against all advice to the contrary. | |||
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The use of loctite has become increasingly popular as the quality of fasteners provided with rings and bases has decreased. I always recommend my customers use quality fasteners. That rules out 95% of the screws readily available on the market. A friend brought me a rifle recently he had shot 3 different base/ring sets loose. Each were the cheap POS sets available for $20-$30. The one that was on the rifle, I disassembled and showed him how the screws had elongated. There is plenty of literature on oiled threads and the benefits for tightening. A good fastener, torqued to the proper spec, will "tighten up" and stop turning. The garbage available with most will just mush... However keep in mind, most torque specs are WITHOUT oil... Nathaniel Myers Myers Arms LLC nathaniel@myersarms.com www.myersarms.com Follow us on Instagram and YouTube I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools. | |||
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