Santa Barbara '98 Mauser

23 September 2007, 10:47

rem721

quote:
Originally posted by Kabluewy:
Just what was the quality of these actions? Compared to the Mark X for example?

Thanks,
KB

It doesn't compare. Quality on these as with most Spanish mausers runs all over the board. Some too soft and some too hard. They made actions for Parker Hale that had to be destroyed due to being too hard. Remember all those PH take off barrels floating around a few years ago.

Too soft can be dealt with, too hard and you're out of luck.

23 September 2007, 11:17

duikerman

quote:
Originally posted by rem721:
Too soft can be dealt with, too hard and you're out of luck.

another BS statement by rem721

23 September 2007, 18:54

rem721

quote:
Originally posted by duikerman:
quote:
Originally posted by rem721:
Too soft can be dealt with, too hard and you're out of luck.

another BS statement by rem721

In your typical manner you've slammed me without offering up one piece of advice or explaining your slam. Why don't you explain yourself if you can so Kabluewy can get some useful info out of this thread. Or do you as usual just intend trade barbs without ever contributing to the discussion?

23 September 2007, 23:43

Kabluewy

rem721,
Thanks for the info. You helped me make a decision.

Duikerman,

I don't like to get in the middle of a squabble or pissing match. However, sometimes I like a good word fight. It's just that right now I'm busy, having to spend my weekend writing motions and oppositions to motions to the court relating to my divorce. I am having plenty of fun with word fights already, with a very worthy opponent, namely my wifeâ€™s attorney.

If youâ€™re so good at word fights, maybe you can redirect some of that energy, and offer me some constructive advice.

Regards,
Kb

23 September 2007, 23:59

Big Bore Boar Hunter

quote:
Originally posted by rem721:
quote:
Originally posted by duikerman:
quote:
Originally posted by rem721:
Too soft can be dealt with, too hard and you're out of luck.

another BS statement by rem721

In your typical manner you've slammed me without offering up one piece of advice or explaining your slam. Why don't you explain yourself if you can so Kabluewy can get some useful info out of this thread. Or do you as usual just intend trade barbs without ever contributing to the discussion?

If the metal is too hard, you can always normalize and re-heat treat. perhaps that was the jist of his jibe....

John

24 September 2007, 00:26

snowcat

I'd temper 721's advice by saying I've had some experience with Spanish Centurians and possibly Santa Barbaras (some debate as to origin due to secondary marketing by PH, Herters, etc.) Mine were nicely finished c ring 98's, good lug contact, nice exterior finish, no problems with setback even with high pressure cartridges. I wouldn't dismiss one out of hand although some due diligence might be in order--a competent smith should be able do a simple rockwell test, any other problems should be evident to the eye. I'm pretty pleased with mine.

24 September 2007, 00:31

Marc_Stokeld

I bought one one time and figured if nothing else, it was worth the cost of the hinged bottom metal. After I recieved it and inspected it, I promptly sold it. Both the action and bottom metal did not impress me.

Mk X's have their own share of issues at times, but the ones I have seen were all substantially better than the SB's

24 September 2007, 01:04

GSP7

I had a complete rifle with a santa barbara action. I sold it also.

It was a C ring and looked nice, maybe rough on the inside, cheap alloy bottom metal almost seemed plastic. Cycling the bolt wasnt too smooth. Dehass book says they have a stiff fireing pin sprg too. I remember JBelk sayed the britle ones had a discolor to the front ring

24 September 2007, 01:16

rem721

quote:
Originally posted by GSP7:
I had a complete rifle with a santa barbara action. I sold it also.

It was a C ring and looked nice, maybe rough on the inside, cheap alloy bottom metal almost seemed plastic. Cycling the bolt wasnt too smooth. Dehass book says they have a stiff fireing pin sprg too. I remember JBelk sayed the britle ones had a discolor to the front ring

Not all the brittle ones had that purple color but a great many did. By the time you add in the time & expense of having them hardness tested you are better off just upgrading to the Zastava (Mark X, Charles Daly, etc) actions.

24 September 2007, 01:24

ramrod340

I've heard the usual issues around the Santa Barbara. I've only been around one it was a Parker Hale(I assumed it was a SB). The Rifle was a 7mmRmag and only had factory ammo shot in it. After less than 200 rds it had setback.

I've used numerous MKX. Most needed smoothing. A few had been over polished and had rounded corners and egg shaped holes. A couple of them I did a lot of testing in the high psi range(numerous blown primers) and never had any issue with them handling the pressure.

24 September 2007, 01:32

Rick R

I've got two, both have been checked for hardness and both are fine. One was a kit gun from CVA in .30-06, since rebarrelled and restocked into my 9,3x62. The other is a Parker Hale .458 Win Mag which I had reamed to .458 Lott.

Both have had more than a few rounds thru them and both are still working just fine.

Of course your mileage may vary with anything made by man.

24 September 2007, 02:19

olcrip

I've had two SBs and both are great shooters. One is a 30-06 that started out as a kit gun from Herter's and was stamped Santa Barbara, Spain. The seven Mag is also a Santa Barbara but only stamped on the barrel. I just bought another seven mag barreled action and it will be a 458 lott or if my thinking gets squared away it will be a 458 AR. It's been shot quite a bit with no set back. I'm foraging ahead with my project and the newly acquired Santa Barbara.

24 September 2007, 02:55

dopeydave

Ive got a centurion in 7x57 that came in a fajen stock I put it into a B&C carbelite and its easily the most accurate 7x57 Ive had. The action is not as smooth as my FN's the alloy bottom metal is pretty hokey but its still a nice rifle.

24 September 2007, 04:28

tom ga hunter

I have a 7 rem mag that came from the texas distributor.. The action is fine but none of the after market triggers would fit it & the original trigger stinks.. This was a demo rifle & has a very accurate shilen barrel. I paid less for it than the stock blank on it would cost.

25 September 2007, 21:10

Dan H

I have a Century Arms one in .257 Roberts. I've had to replace the bottom metal and trigger, and it has never fed very well. I'm not sure if I'll dump more money into the beast...it was a gift, so I'll be keeping it.

Dan

25 September 2007, 21:32

rem721

quote:
Originally posted by Kabluewy:
rem721,
Thanks for the info. You helped me make a decision.

Regards,
Kb

I think you made the right decision. Starting with a better action saves you lots of stress, worry, and grief down the line. And, they are pennies more, sometimes less.

What you planning on building?

26 September 2007, 01:36

Kabluewy

Thanks guys. I passed on the purchase. I have plenty of other good Mauser actions to choose from anyway.

I think my next rifle will be 8x57. I don't know why I waited this long to have one, seems like such a good idea now.

Also on my list is 6.5x55, 7x57, 9.3x57, and maybe another 9.3x62.

I've already started putting together the stuff for a 323 Hollis, and have the reamer already, and plenty of 308 Norma brass. I have three actions that will work - a Ruger SS Mk II, a Charles Daly, and an FN. I haven't made a decision yet which one to use. I just ordered the dies from Redding, and that is about 16 weeks until delivery.

KB

02 October 2007, 09:41

z1r

Good choice to pass. I just had a Santa Barbara receiver and bolt tested today and they both came in at 58 where normally they would read about 36 for the receiver and low to mid 40's on the bolt.

Like you say, there are plenty of other good mauser actions out there. Hell, I just picked up a minty 1952 FN rifle complete for little more than $200.

I like your cartridge choices. The 9.3x57 has become one of my personal favorites.

02 October 2007, 10:06

tnekkcc

I got some of the highly polished Santa Barbara commercial action from Century a couple years ago. They have welded bolts, no thumb cut, and the inner C ring is cut in half.
These are more like FN actions.

I got some 1950's military Santa Barbara actions and they have a thumb cut, but complete inner C rings.
These are more like VZ24 actions.

03 October 2007, 22:24

Atkinson

Having a Mauser taken down to soft, and brought back up to specs is a cheap enough solution...The last one I had done was about $50 or $75.

04 October 2007, 10:40

rem721

Ray, you are right to a point. However, the primary reason given here and elsewhere for opting for a commercial mauser action is to avoid the costs associated with transforming a Military action. So then why would you want to take away from this savings by utilizing an action that NEEDS to be corrected? The cost of heat treating is higher these days as is postage to and from. Figure a minimum of $100 for that lone action. Now, is it really such a deal?

My thoughts are to use a good quality action if your intent is to use a commercial action. To do otherwise is simply false economy. Especially when you can still pick up these gems, with better bottom metal, for a song:

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81691242

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81797662

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81632449

04 October 2007, 20:49

olcrip

quote:
Originally posted by rem721:
Ray, you are right to a point. However, the primary reason given here and elsewhere for opting for a commercial mauser action is to avoid the costs associated with transforming a Military action. So then why would you want to take away from this savings by utilizing an action that NEEDS to be corrected? The cost of heat treating is higher these days as is postage to and from. Figure a minimum of $100 for that lone action. Now, is it really such a deal?

My thoughts are to use a good quality action if your intent is to use a commercial action. To do otherwise is simply false economy. Especially when you can still pick up these gems, with better bottom metal, for a song.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81691242

[color:RED]THIS ONE ALSO NEEDS MIL. STYE FLOOR PLATE CONVERTED AT WHAT COST?

<A HREF="http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81797662" TARGET=_blank>http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81797662
This one needs to convert Military style bottom metal. How much cost is entailed?

[URL=http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81632449]http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81632449</A>

THIS INTERARMS MARK X IF IT SELLS FOR THE BUY IT NOW PRICE WOULD BE A DECENT BUY.

There are hidden costs with about anything you buy nowadays. If you are doing the work yourself that would be fine. If you are buying all the work to be done and paying a qualified smith to perform such work then you would be better advised to just purchase a CZ 550 and sell the pipe and furniture to recoup some of your costs in the action. Your starting out with a modern up to date action that would need a minimum of work and not have to be heat treated.

04 October 2007, 21:28

rem721

quote:
Originally posted by olcrip:
quote:
Originally posted by rem721:
Ray, you are right to a point. However, the primary reason given here and elsewhere for opting for a commercial mauser action is to avoid the costs associated with transforming a Military action. So then why would you want to take away from this savings by utilizing an action that NEEDS to be corrected? The cost of heat treating is higher these days as is postage to and from. Figure a minimum of $100 for that lone action. Now, is it really such a deal?

My thoughts are to use a good quality action if your intent is to use a commercial action. To do otherwise is simply false economy. Especially when you can still pick up these gems, with better bottom metal, for a song.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81691242

[color:RED]THIS ONE ALSO NEEDS MIL. STYE FLOOR PLATE CONVERTED AT WHAT COST?

NEEDS? Remember, this has the contoured bow and the '06 length box. The only thing lacking is a hinge but I'd pick this style over those cheesey SB hinged units any day.

<A HREF="http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81797662" TARGET=_blank>http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81797662
This one needs to convert Military style bottom metal. How much cost is entailed?

[URL=http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81632449]http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=81632449</A>
THIS INTERARMS MARK X IF IT SELLS FOR THE BUY IT NOW PRICE WOULD BE A DECENT BUY.

There are hidden costs with about anything you buy nowadays. If you are doing the work yourself that would be fine. If you are buying all the work to be done and paying a qualified smith to perform such work then you would be better advised to just purchase a CZ 550 and sell the pipe and furniture to recoup some of your costs in the action. Your starting out with a modern up to date action that would need a minimum of work and not have to be heat treated.

05 October 2007, 05:11

olcrip

Rem721, I apologize if I returned the response to your quotes the wrong way. I'm not exactly sure what the protocol is. But I didn't intend to mess with your post, just wanted to respond to the links. Please accept my apology.

05 October 2007, 06:01

rem721

quote:
Originally posted by olcrip:
Rem721, I apologize if I returned the response to your quotes the wrong way. I'm not exactly sure what the protocol is. But I didn't intend to mess with your post, just wanted to respond to the links. Please accept my apology.

No problems!

I knew what you were doing.

I was just pointing out that not everyone NEEDS to replace the bottom metal and that these units, though not hinged, are a far cry from military units.

Granted, a cz550 would be the far less expensive choice and while they are a fine action (I have many) they are no where near as sexy as a Mauser.

05 October 2007, 06:11

smithrjd

How can one identify a Santa Barbara action? I have what I "think" is a Santa Barbara mauser but have never really kown for sure. Stamped made in Spain under the action by the trigger. No other markings, no import etc. 243W only mark on the barrel Serial Number starts with the letter Z- Only proof mark is a CP with the C intersecting the P. Fit and finish are very good bolt not rough it is a commecial action.

Ron

05 October 2007, 06:54

tnekkcc

This is a Santa Barbra action that I sent off to Century in 2006 and got one for $129.87 free shipping.

My 1950's Spanish military 98s are La Coruna, and not what I posted above. Sorry.

05 October 2007, 07:25

olcrip

quote:
Originally posted by rem721:
quote:
Originally posted by olcrip:
Rem721, I apologize if I returned the response to your quotes the wrong way. I'm not exactly sure what the protocol is. But I didn't intend to mess with your post, just wanted to respond to the links. Please accept my apology.

No problems! I knew what you were doing.

I was just pointing out that not everyone NEEDS to replace the bottom metal and that these units, though not hinged, are a far cry from military units.

Granted, a cz550 would be the far less expensive choice and while they are a fine action (I have many) they are no where near as sexy as a Mauser.

Mausers have an aura and a mystic about them with so much history. Yeah, the word just might be "Sexy." My gun locker is slowly pushing out the Rems being overtaken by Mausers.