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Work Sharp A+

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16 March 2017, 22:33
Work Sharp A+
Well the wonderful wife gave me an original Work Sharp Sharpener for Christmas.

Just did a touch up on the kitchen knives. I'm very happy with the results. Give me a nice sharp edge.

Be warned the belts that came with it won't last long. The 2 coarse belts are way to much for a knife. The mediums are 220 I think and leave a rough edge. Great for the first bevel but in my opinion too coarse for touch up. With the 220 the 6000 has to work extra hard.

I switched to 600 for a touch up and will probably go 800 next time. I get about 6-8 knife touch ups with a belt. I bought some after market 1/2x12" belts on ebay and I think they work fine and about 60% of the cost.

Just ordered a leather belt and compound will see if it lasts longer than the 6000 belt.

As usual just my $.02
Paul K
17 March 2017, 21:43
I found one at an auction and really like it. As you say, the belts don't last long, but I can buy them in bulk from Ebay or Northern Tool so I just stock them. The 600s are fine for a final sharp.


"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson
19 March 2017, 09:57
Are the work sharp tool worth the money?



"He Who Farts in Church, Must Sit in Own Pew".
19 March 2017, 19:02
Yes, I believe they are worth the money. I got one for Christmas in 2015. They work very well in my view. The coarse belts are extremely aggressive and you have to be careful or they will actually alter the profile of the blade. The medium and fine belts work fine for 95% of the sharpening anyone will do. I can sharpen a stack of kitchen knives in 10 minutes. For hunting knives and folders, you can get them very, very sharp. I have not really tried to use it on anything other than knives . . . for machetes, axes and the like I use a Speedy Sharp which works very well.

19 March 2017, 21:42
Yes, I believe they are worth the money

tu2 +1. I have the original. Does everything I need. Have never tried the Ken Onion version. I think someone had both and made some comments.

As usual just my $.02
Paul K
20 March 2017, 16:25
Well hell. I'm gonna order one today. I have a really nice set of kitchen knifes that I can't sharpen for the life of me. I swear they are make from something from another planet, meteorite, or diamond. Hard as hell. We'll give this a try.



"He Who Farts in Church, Must Sit in Own Pew".
21 March 2017, 00:02
They also work on scissors very well. Just don't stop pulling them through or, as someone noted above, you will change the contour of the blade. I wonder how I know that??? jumping


"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson
21 March 2017, 01:28
I looked at their website and they make the drill doctor. I got to thinking, we sell the drill doctor and I have one on the shelf. Logged in to our supplier, and low and behold, they stock them and I got one on its way.

Will report back on how it handles the kitchen knifes from another planet.


"He Who Farts in Church, Must Sit in Own Pew".
21 March 2017, 19:02
Best money I ever spent!

DRSS(We Band of Bubba's Div.)
N.R.A (Life)
T.S.R.A (Life)
22 March 2017, 22:55
I guess (know) I'm old fashioned but I like using stones, diamonds, etc on my knife sharpening.

A friend got a Work Sharp given to him and he loves it. I've sampled his edges and was not impressed. But I suppose the speed makes up for it. If I go play with his awhile, I might change my mind.

I literally own dozens of stones, from natural, to Norton's, to waterstones, to diamond impreganated but I do most of my sharpening on a Spyderco Sharpmaker, because it is so easy. I don't have to buy belts, don't have to have an electric outlet, and don't have to worry about over grinding the edge and I can watch TV or whatever while sharpening without having to watch the edge every second. Plus, unless you really work at it, a Sharpmaker will not leave scratches all over your blade. However, if I've really got a dull knife (I can't imagine how many times I've told my wife to let me sharpen her kitchen knives BEFORE they can't cut butter) or one with a thick edge, then I typically use a combo India Stone. All the rest of them are primarily for play.

None of this is meant to knock the Work Sharp, it's just not my cup of tea.

When considering US based operations of guides/outfitters, check and see if they are NRA members. If not, why support someone who doesn't support us? Consider spending your money elsewhere.


I have come to understand that in hunting, the goal is not the goal but the process.
24 March 2017, 07:54
matt salm
For quick and easy I have a knife maker belt grinder that I use for barrel polishing along with a bunch of quite dull 320 grit belts. Very light pass on both sides followed by a buffing wheel and I have an edge that shaves hair in 30 seconds without removing squat for blade material. It's either that or 10 minutes on diamond followed by an surgical grade hard Arkansas.

Shoot straight, shoot often.
24 March 2017, 07:59
Spyderco Sharpmake

I have one and that is what I used before. I just got lazy. Wink

As usual just my $.02
Paul K
11 April 2017, 21:02
I love mine. I use it for my hunting knives and my old Henckels kitchen knives. I do use the coarse belt for axes, etc.

My current kitchen knives are Japanese so I only use stones on them and diamond only on the stones to square them.

13 April 2017, 02:57
Idaho Ron
I have the Ken Onion WS.
It takes a while to get the right edge. A lot of guys will stop[ as soon as the knife is "sharp" and it is not the true edge yet.
After changing the edge I take mine to wood and dull it. Then I sharpen it again. It seems that after a couple times of that the edge is unbelievable. I build knives, and get my blanks from Jantz. I used one blade on two deer gutting and skinning and when I was done it was still sharp enough to shave hair. The edge the WS puts on them is an awesome edge but you can't touch it up with a steel. A good razor strop with do a good job of touching up it you need to. The Work Sharp Ken Onion is WELL worth the extra money.

25 December 2017, 19:32
I am a dinosaur, I know. I sharpen knives using two stones, a soft Washita and a hard Arkansas. These are Buck products mounted to wooden block with a wooded cover, cedar is my guess. They are about 3" x 6" max. I can sharpen a knife but am not the best. I tend to leave dull spots along the blade mainly.

I saw an infomercial about an electric sharpener which uses 3 grit belts. It had attachments for different angles. Has anyone used these type things and are they good at sharpening blades? I do not like electric sharpeners in general as I believe they eat a lot of steel. My Buck 112 and most of my kitchen knives probably have 99.9% of the blade from new, and we are talking some 40 plus years old.

Opinions and make model suggestions please.

PA Bear Hunter, NRA Benefactor
25 December 2017, 20:16
Years ago I traveled a lot. some times out of town for several months. I'd get home and have to sharpen all the kitchen knives. Bought a Chefs Choice so my wife could sharpen knives. It used vibrating diamond stones, 3 stations and magnetic guides to guide the knife blade. Easy to use and works good. She never used it, I still had to sharpen the knives. My hunting knives I still use stones.

10 January 2018, 05:06
I have a work sharp and this thread reminded me I needed to order some new belts.

Anyhow, I ordered some from an EBay seller in Texas, and everything was good. The seller dispatched promptly, and sent me a tracking link. However it gets depressing from there. I can only guess that the USPS is not the most efficient organisation out there? Anyhow, at this rate, I dont know how long the trip to Australia will take.

11 January 2018, 23:10
I didn't even know they existed, but I live a sheltered life.
I've GOT to get one if for nothing more than kitchen,butchering knives.

Is it the one for about $130-150?

12 January 2018, 05:28
I wouldn't be without one, it spoiled me, especially for stock making and keep chisels sharp...and my pocket knife, hunting knives and kitchen knives...On some knives I finish by hand for a shaving edge..The worlds your oyster for maintaining your knife..A working knife need not be razor sharp, quit the contrary as a matter of fact..You can angle the edge at any angle depending on what you intend to cut..

Contrary to most I don't need real hard steel that will skin and butcher several deer and two elk and that's BS anyway, elk, deer hair, and bone will dull the best of custom knives in a hurry..I would much rather have soft knife that I can sharpen quickly in the field as opposed to a hard steel that you may not be able to sharpen in the field or it will take a couple of hours to restore the edge...

I like the work sharp for anything that needs its edge restored..

Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328