Most of you are likely aware that empty, used, many-times fired .303 Savage Brass now costs about $1 per cartridge case on eBay...sometimes more. None has been made in North America on any large scale since Canadian Industries Limited (C.I.L.) dropped it in about 1973.



Both Ken Howell (in Designing and Forming Custom Cartridges), and the late John J. Donnelly (in the Handloader's Manual of Cartridge Conversions) recommend making brass, if you have to make any, from .220 Swift brass.



I have done that, and don't much like the result. The case rims on .220 Swift brass are only about .473" diameter. Savage rims are normally about .501"-.505" diameter, and that is what the bolt faces/extractors of Savage Model 99's are usually set up to fit. As a result of the .028"-.032" smaller rims, only about half or less of the .303 Sav cases I have made from .220 Swift brass will extract reliably from my rifle after firing.



After looking at the question of what to use as raw material for making better .303 Savage brass, I decided to try the current .30/40 Winchester cases. The hard part is to find a case with a head immediately in front of the rim which is small enough to practically reduce to .303 Sav diameter, without starting with a case which is so small to begin with that on firing it bulges inconsistently, or thins out too much to be safe, when fired. That bulging and thinning is why .30/30 family brass is not a choice I care for either.



Donnelly lists the head diameter (immediately in front of the rim) of the .303 Sav as .442", as does Howell, while Cartridges of the World shows it as .439". One option considered was .303 British brass for base stock. Donnelly shows the .303 British head diameter as .455", while Howell prints it as .460", and Cartidges of the World makes it out as .458" diameter. The difference amounts to the .303 being somewhere between .013" and .021" oversized at the case head, depending on which figures you compare.



Enter the current Winchester .30/40 Krag case. Its rim measures .501" according to my "mic". It's head diameter in the lot I have is .450". Further, the actual chamber of my Model 99 Savage has a head diameter of .445", so the difference in head diameter is only .005", if the re-formed case completely fills the chamber.



So, I decided to try the .30/40 cases as base stock for making some new .303 Savage cases. Here's the steps in how I did it:



1. Shorten the .30/40 Krag cases from 2.31" long to 2.00 inches overall, and push the shoulder back to the proper place on each case. For this, I used an RCBS 1.5"x.308 file-trim die. The case was lubed on the outside of the neck with a very light coat of Imperial Sizing Die Wax, the die adjusted in my RCBS A-3 press, and the case run all the way into the die. A 32 t.p.i. hacksaw was used to roughly cut off the .031" excess neck sticking out of the die, and a medium-fine machinist's file was applied to the end of the neck to smooth it off to the end of the die. (They're made to take that...that's why they're called a file-trim die.) The case was then strongly chamfered inside and out. This creates cases which look like empty .303 Sav hulls, but they will not chamber in a rifle for that cartridge.



2. Next, the cases were lubed full length with a generous amount of Imperial die wax and run completely into an el cheapo (but very satisfactory) Lee full-length .303 Savage sizing die. The die was as deep into the press as it could be put and still push the operating handle all the way down. I could definitely feel the shell holder contact the bottom of the die and the handle bump "over center" as the stroke was completed.



Now the cases looked like .303 Savage brass with a small "belt" directly in front of the case rims. This belt was .450" in diameter, and as long as the top of my shell holder, which prevents the cases from going entirely into the full-length sizing die clear up to the rim. With the belt there, the cases still will not enter a .303 Sav chamber.



3. To remove the "belt", the cases were put one-at-a-time in a Jacob's Rubberflex collet mounted on my lathe, and spun at about 120 RPM. A lathe is not necessary for this step, though. Any rotating tool with a flexible (or soft) collet big enough to hold a cartridge case, whether a mill, a drill press, an electric screw driver, variable speed die grinder, or whatever can be rigged up to work with some thought and care. If one does not have a flexible chuck, each case can be wrapped with a strong, thin, plastic sheeting, sheet rubber, or probably even cork to protect it from the collet or chuck.



4. Now a 1/4-3/8"wide flat mill file was held against the belt, to reduce it's diameter to that of the case head proper...that is, .445". Remember, reducing the case head to .445" diameter only requires removing .0025" from each side of the case. Keep your digital caliper or "mic" close at hand and use it often in the process. The brass is much easier to remove than to put back on. Now, the cases will chamber in my Model 99 if I squeeze the lever hard. BUT, they are very difficult to extract.



5. To ease chambering and extraction, the next step is to increase the speed of the lathe or other rotary machine you are using to about 200-220 RPM. Use thin strips of first 240, then 320 or 400 grit emery cloth to remove another .0005" of brass from the case heads, making them an even .444" diameter. This step will also blend the belt area in with the rest of the case, and will remove any file marks. The cases now chamber and extract easily from my rifle.



PLEASE NOTE, I am am talking about MY .303 Sav rifle, MY .30/40 Krag cases, and MY tools. The description of this experiment IS FOR INFORMATION ONLY and you should NOT try it. It will probably be dangerous in your rifle. If you DO try it, you are completely on your own. I don't even want to know about it.



The proof of the pudding in my rifle is, of course, in the firing.



Yesterday I took a batch of cases made this way to the range and fired them. They were loaded with WLR primers, 29.0 grs. of AA-2495, and 190 gr. .311 diameter C.I.L. SP-RN bullets originally made for the .303 Savage cartridge. (Current SAAMI specs also call for a .311" diameter bullet, despite whatever you hear elsewhere.) The cases were briskly crimped into the crimping cannelure on the bullets.



On firing, none of the cases appeared at all expanded or stretched at the case head. That is no doubt because they were fully supported at the head by the chamber walls of my rifle.



The necks of these cases before loading or firing were .015" thick, and .332" overall diameter. Some factory Savage cases in my possession also measure .015" neck wall thickness, and they are .334" outside diameter.



On firing, the case necks of my .303 Sav-from-30/40 Krag cases expanded nicely to release the bullets, as they should have.



None of the fired cases showed any signs of distress or signs of any excess pressures, and all chambered and extracted easily.



Until someone like Graf's (I hope), brings back a run of widely available modern American or Lapua made .303 Savage cases at a reasonable price, I'll continue to make my .303 Sav brass from current Winchester .30/40 Krag stock.



Best wishes all, and thanks for your patience with this loooong post.



AC

AB Canuck:

Lloyd that was some interesting info. I have always had an interest in the 303 Savage, I guess because of it being a bird or a different color.

The next time I am going to be up in Roseburg, mind if I give you a call and if you have some time, I would like to see the steps involved in that. I have been on the look out for a 303 Savage after passing two up over in Gold Beach a few years ago. They were asking $400.00 a piece for them and I thought that was too much at the time.

I also checked out Old Western Scrounger and they have loaded 303 ammo, but not listing any brass for it. About $40.00 per box of 20. ( spendy to me).

cheers and good shooting seafire

To eliminate the lathe step, could you use a piece of hard, flat steel on top of the press ram and force the case enough further into the sizing die to eliminate the belt, then use a flat-end punch to drive the case back out of the die after sizing? Just a thought. I too have always had an interest in the .303 Savage. Maybe Graf's or Starline could be persuaded to make some cases.

El D



Yes, one could probably do what you suggest and reasonably expect success.



Now that I know the .30/40 Krag brass will work as basic stock, I'm gonna fire up the lathe and make a "shorty" case-head die and try that. The only potential problem is that it may also "sqoosh" the diameter of the primer pocket slightly. If it does, then I'll have the choice of going back to filing off the belt, or of reaming the primer pockets back out to proper size in the finished cases.



Reaming would probably be the easier, quicker, and more mechanically sound practice of the two...



Thanks for the suggestion.



AC

Seafire -

You're always welcome here. Would be my pleasure to walk you through the process of you making a couple of cases while you're here.

I'm gonna be in and out through this coming Thursday, but any time after that will be fine....

BTW, I paid $300 locally for my .303 Savage take-down, but it has been refinished to the point that it bears little resemblance to "originial". Mechanically, however, it is excellent, including the bore. Too bad it is too early a model to be drilled and tapped for a scope. A local friend (Roger Fielding) gave me a tang sight for it, though, so guess I'd better get around to putting that on.

Best wishes,

AC

BTW, a bit of a description of my idea for a shorty "case-head sizing die" may be in order...



The die is made only about 1" long. It is threaded 7/8-14 on the TOP 3/4" of the die, and is screwed in from the bottom side (ram side) of the press.



A hole of the proper diameter (in this instance .444" or .4445") is bored all the way through the die. Then a larger drill-hole, such as 1/2" or 9/16", is countersunk about 3/4 of the way through the die from the top (down to about the bottom of the threads).



A flat-topped "shell-holder" is also made on the lathe, to fit in the press ram. (I have already made & have this, for other purposes.)



To use, a case is placed atop the "shell holder" and pressed up into the case-head die clear to the case rim.



A round Lee large primer removal rod (such as is sold to remove crimped WW-II GI '06 primers) is then used to remove the case...just put it down through the neck of the case, clear to the inside base, with the pin through the empty flash-hole of the case. Then tap with a plastic hammer. If the case is well-lubed before sizing, it should pop right out.



AC

Alberta, I think your original method is probably the best method. The small remaining belt is probably opposite the case web and trying to squeeze it down will probably be difficult. I'd section one of the sized cases to see if it is actually sized all the way down to the web and that you are not removing any brass from the case wall and only from the web area.

I was also trying to figure out a way to turn belts off easily, and thought I would make a short bushing with an internal taper the same as the case and an internal diameter so the case would stick out about 1/2" to 3/4". Then I would hold pressure against the case with a live center and turn off the belt with the compound set at the correct angle.

Your suggestion to section a case is a very good one...don't know why that never occured to me, though it should have. Guess it's because I am basically cheap at heart. <G>

I actually started out turning the belts off, but found it very difficult to keep them in the soft collet unless I cranked it tight enough that it also damaged the outside of the case. I also didn't feel like sharpening a tool correctly to cut brass so it came out smooth. With my HS steel cutters I ground for barrel work they are apparently too sharp and leave a plethora of fine tool marks over the cut area. Something a bit more rounded or "spoon" shaped would probably leave a lot nicer finish on the brass case, but I gues I have TWO major weaknesses...I'm cheap and I'm lazy! <G, & G again>

I will get off my butt and section a case, though. I also would like to be certain I am not excessively reducing any case wall area.

So far, all my shooting has been with both sights on the barrel. Haven't done any bench testing so far, but seems to shoot very well for offhand at 220 yards. As soon as I run off a batch of about 40 cases and get them fire-formed, I'll start working with loads to find something I feel is about the best for this rifle. Because it has a Buckhorn rear and Bead front, and I have almost 70-year-old eyes, don't expect any "stunner hummers" though.

Best wishes all,

AC

If you tire of making your own, Buffalo Arms offers reformed brass for the .303 Sav.



The 6.5x53R (the .256 Mannlicher) is pretty close. Sadly, it seems only Bertram is making it right now, so it's pricey stuff at about $1.50 per case, and their reputation is not the best. You'd likely still have to sand off a few thousands, and the rim may be a trifle thick as well. Max for the base is only 0.452" according to Howell's book. The Krag base dimension you give is below SAAMI min., so you might want to buy a few ahead in case the next batch from Win. is w/in spec.

Interesting comment about the 6.5x53-R. I have two rifles in that chambering...one a very nice Ruger No. 1 with a pencil weight 28" Hart barrel fitted by my old friend and one-time elk-hunting partner, the late Paul Marquart.

As you might guess, I also have a set of RCBS form dies to make the 6.5 cases from either .303 Brit or .30/40 Krag. I had thought about using the RCBS form dies to form to an intermediate step, as part of the making of the .303 Savage brass. Decided after thinking it through that it would only add steps to the process and perhaps needlessly work-harden the brass, so didn't go that route.

I do also have a fair supply of original 6.5 Mannlicher ammo by Kynoch, DWM, and the German military. (The military cases are berdan-primed, copper-washed steel.) Don't think I'll try any of them either. They are likely worth more as is, than newly-bought loaded ammo from Old Western Scrounger would be.

Guess I'll just have to buy another 500 rounds of this Winchester 30/40 brass, to be on the safe side.

Thanks,

AC

How much does your No.1 with a pencil barrel weigh? My 1-S is too hefty for my tastes, and it's either a new barrel or a new owner for it. Any accuracy problems? The benchrest guys would probably gasp at your pencil barrel, but I suspect with a load "tuned" to its vibrations, one would do fine. I'm thinking about a thin 28" tube for another action I have.

Never done quite this one, but the easy way to chuck cases in a lathe is make a spud that is an easy slide into the neck. Chuck can't mash the neck with the spud in. A bit of drill rod primer pocket size will serve as a center. Brass calls for 0 rake on the tool and you should get no chatter. Take a .003 cut going away and lubing with kerosene and you oughta be able to do a case a minute.