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Casting bullets using solder 63/37 Tin Lead
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Happened across the large supply of free used solder. I'm going to start doing some bullet casting and I was curious if anybody has used solder before and roughly how does it rate hardness wise and weight Wise compared to a normal bullet alloy? I also have the idea to maybe melt some copper into it to possibly make it harder as anybody done that as well also? Thanks in advance for any advice. I did cast a couple sample slugs and I thought before I did this that they would probably be like a soft swadged hollow-based water cutters but they look and feel like a typical hardcast lead bullet that I would buy.
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Posts: 24 | Location: Arkansas | Registered: 25 February 2004Reply With Quote
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The only solder that I ever use is 50/50 bar solder. I use Frank Marshalls recipe of 19.5 Lbs. of wheel weights and .5 Lbs. of 50/50 bar solder.


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Posts: 1283 | Registered: 15 December 2008Reply With Quote
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Yes bar solder, new or used, would have way too much tin in it and cast bullets would weigh light. Bullet alloy only needs a small amount of tin to help fluidity of the lead mix which helps fill out the mould.

Lyman #2 mix which is a good all-round casting mix is 90% pure lead, 5% antimony and 5% tin. The antimony along with trace arsenic does the hardening of the mix.

Usually if using clip on wheel weights to make up a #2 alloy (9lb of wheel weights) you use just 1lb of 50/50 bar solder to make up 10lb casting alloy.
Wheel weights on their own are already a mix of lead, antimony and tin, just needing a bit more tin from 50/50 bar solder to make up to 5%.
 
Posts: 3821 | Location: Nelson, New Zealand | Registered: 03 August 2009Reply With Quote
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tin is only twice as hard as storebought bullets so I'd imagine it was some hard.

look, man.
don't fall for the I need my bullets harder than wood pecker lips to work thing.

you truly really only need an alloy of 1% tin and 2-3% antimony to do anything those ''hard cast'' bullets will do.

here's a tip.
the alloy I quoted above is about 12 BHN.
the 'hardcast' bullets they are trying to sell you are 15 BHN.
the 5-5 alloy mentioned above is also 15 BHN.

so what is 3 BHN gonna get you?
yeah,, less money in your pocket.
 
Posts: 4954 | Location: soda springs,id | Registered: 02 April 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of NormanConquest
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Eagle, you are correct on the Lyman # 2 recipe, 9 lbs. W W to 1 lb. of 50/50. I also use lead solder + have in my business for the last 40 years + I will tell you that if you want an accurate weight, go with roll solder; the bar is never exactly 1 lb., usually a bit over, sometimes under. Moot point though as it gets you close + I keep quite a bit of linotype to add if needed. I have a Saeco hardness tester + it tells me when I'm right on the Brinell hardness mark that I want to be.


Never mistake motion for action.
 
Posts: 17357 | Location: Austin, Texas | Registered: 11 March 2013Reply With Quote
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bstogsdill--Over 55 years ago when I wanted to start reloading and casting, I read the Lyman Manual. It gave exact amounts to add to wheelweights. You"re going to use an unknown for 90% of your mixture and 10% exact and come out with an exact??? I didn't buy that. I have used wheel weights and if I needed something harder--I didn't know it as I don't have a hardness tester. It aint rocket science--no need to try and make it that way._
 
Posts: 3795 | Location: san angelo tx | Registered: 18 November 2009Reply With Quote
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99.9% of the bullets I cast are used for close range pistol practice.

I throw what ever is handy into then pot mostly wheel weights.

That works well for the intended purpose.
 
Posts: 19290 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Because of the tin content that solder is way too precious to use as is. I would look for some scrap lead (good luck) and cut it to about a 1:20 lead/tin mix.
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 1088 | Registered: 25 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Hey Randy: tell 'em about the cost of solder.

Best and cheapest, less hassle is pick pellets from the range berms and just reuse that.

The last shooters went thru all the hassles of making the mixture hard. Why fight that same battle everytime???

IF it can't be marked with a thumb nail, that's good enough for pistol bullets. Any that is fairly easy just goes into the 'soft lead" crate for M/L shooting.

George


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LM: NRA, DAV,

George L. Dwight
 
Posts: 5934 | Location: Pueblo, CO | Registered: 31 January 2006Reply With Quote
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George, I don't know the current price as I usually buy it by the case + have not needed to reorder in the last 2 years. (says something about the economy,right?) I will say that 10 years ago I was paying approx. $5.00 a lb. + 2 years ago it was approx. $15.00 a lb. But then ANYTHING metal related these days are going for a premium, if you can get it at all.


Never mistake motion for action.
 
Posts: 17357 | Location: Austin, Texas | Registered: 11 March 2013Reply With Quote
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You didn’t say what you were shooting these bullets in. Unless you are going for top velocity in rifles of 30 caliber or less you don’t really need really hard bullets. And… really high velocity and accuracy with cast bullets is difficult to achieve.
For pistol and medium caliber and larger rifles softer bullets work better.
The tin you have there is valuable, and is necessary only in small quantities, so conserve it.
 
Posts: 3 | Location: NW Florida  | Registered: 06 January 2022Reply With Quote
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