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Picture of Nick321
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new to bowhunting and have not got my first kill yet, was wondering what broadheads i should be using. i was told mechanical because they fly like a field point but the more i read it seems fixed may be better. if i practice with field points should i just shoot the fixed at a foam TGT right before the season and adjust the pins for each range it's off at? also my TGT wouldn't take alot of any type of broadhead before it needed to be replaced. what type of TGT's do you guys use.


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Posts: 39 | Registered: 19 January 2010Reply With Quote
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I have had good results with NAP Spitfires (mechanical) and both Steelforce and NAP Thunderheads (fixed) heads. The mechanical heads make a larger exit hole and seem to leave better blood trails. I've never had a Spitfire fail to open or penetrate, even on several sharply angled shots.
If your broadheads group at a significantly different point of impact than your field points, you may want to check the "tuning" of your bow - position of rest, nocking point, etc. Some fixed blade heads will just not shoot well out of some bows or setups. My Steelforce heads (which shot great and grouped to within an inch or so of my field points with my old PSE bow) seem to scatter a bit & not group as well from my new Mathews, even though I've tested the points/inserts for straightness and the bow shoots "bullet holes" when paper tuning.
As far as targets - I shoot at a bag target with field points, and a "Block" layered foam target with broadheads. The Block holds up well, & mine has taken hundreds of shots with both fixed & mechanical heads. I wouldn't recommend using a mechanical head on game after it has been shot into a foam target.
 
Posts: 171 | Location: East Tennessee | Registered: 13 December 2008Reply With Quote
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I got my first deer with my bow (Elite Z28 72lbs) this year. Love bow! I used RAGE 3 blade 100gr heads. One of the blades did not open up. I was not thrilled but the shot was good and I only had to chase 60yrds.

I would not go to RAGE. Check out the tests done on elitearchery forum under equipment. These guys know what they are doing and are not all about Elite stuff.
 
Posts: 969 | Registered: 13 October 2009Reply With Quote
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Picture of Gerhard.Delport
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I have used Slick Trick broad heads for the last 4 years with great results here in South Africa...

Go and have a look here

http://www.broadheadtalk.com/

There is a lot of info on almost all the broad head brands and their performance.


Gerhard
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Posts: 1659 | Location: Dullstroom- Mpumalanga - South Africa | Registered: 14 May 2005Reply With Quote
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I've been using thunderheads for years.



As you can see, my broadheads and fieldpoints shoot purdy much together.

After shooting up several brands of block type targets I conclude McKensie makes the most durable all around targets. Bag type are the most durable shooting field points only.
 
Posts: 3167 | Location: out behind the barn | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Akshooter
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I have for my modern equipment with carbon arrows two blade 100 gr. Rage. I really don't know how they do on game but they are spot on with the field points.

With my trad gear I use a 125 gr. Zawicky Black Diamond Eskimo. I have both the eskamos with the bleeders and without and I much prefer them without.


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Posts: 1562 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 05 February 2006Reply With Quote
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I'm going to have to go with Gerhard on this one. Slick Trick Magnum 100's are all I shoot now.

For decades I was a dedicated Muzzy shooter, but made the switch to Slick Tricks after the aluminum ferrules bent on several of my Muzzies.

Maybe I've been lucky, but I've found that my fixed blades shoot to almost the same point of impact as my field points. The mechanicals might fly better from a bow that isn't tuned properly, but I'd rather see the animal killed cleanly and quickly.

I've tried mechanicals (SpitFire and Rage) and didn't like how they worked. I recovered the animals (whitetail deer) but I didn't like the holes put in the deer. The SpitFire shot animal wouldn't have been recovered without snow to track it! And the Rage shot animal ran, didn't leave a blood trail and I stumbled over it.

I haven't had those problems with either Muzzy or the Slick Tricks. I noticed too that I didn't seem to get the penetration with the mechanicals that I did with fixed blade heads, so it's back to fixed for me!

For target practice, I use a Block target as well and found that it holds up very well.
 
Posts: 816 | Location: Whitlock, TN | Registered: 23 March 2009Reply With Quote
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Picture of oakman
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I have taken game with lots of different heads but I like G5 Tekan,NAP Blood runners and for predators I like spitfires--large holes. I just harvested a very large tom mt lion and the first hit was a spitfire and the next was a tekan and they did the job-fast...Thanks... patriot

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Posts: 241 | Location: Montana USA | Registered: 01 September 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of Hunting For Adventure
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Muzzy three blades!



Tom Addleman
tom@dirtnapgear.com

 
Posts: 1161 | Location: Kansas City, Missouri | Registered: 03 March 2006Reply With Quote
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I have'nt shot much, but a doe antelope and 2 doe mule deer with sonics, and 1 doe antelope with slick tricks. My son shot 2 soe antelope with slick tricks. The slick tircks seem to work faster,as the animals did't go very far. A friend of mine uses grim reapers, for whiterails and says they are the best.
 
Posts: 32 | Location: Cody, WY. | Registered: 15 April 2009Reply With Quote
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About the last 6 years or so I've been shooting 100-125 grain NAP Thunderheads. Worked good for me so I stuck with em. This year I've been thinking about trying the Hell Razor. I used 1 expandable broadhead on one deer at 20 yards the arrow was showing on both sides of the buck. He wa getting wobbly but I stuck him with a thunderhead just to be on the safe side. Pass thru. The thunderheads shoot where my target points shoot but its always a good idea to check anyways. As for targets I shoot at the Block with field points and broadheads, had it for years and ears but I think its time for a new one.
 
Posts: 513 | Location: S.E. Oregon | Registered: 27 January 2009Reply With Quote
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I'll tell you what I've done.

I ordered some slick tricks and they shot good. A few times practicing I shot slicks and thunderheads together and noticed a thunderhead shot clean thru a slick trick, destroying the slick trick while the thunderhead was still good to go.

Later I happened to shoot a slick trick into a thunderhead and had the same result, ie, undamaged thunderhead and destroyed slick trick.

Given they both shoot about the same from my bows, I put the rest of the slicks in my tackle box and always hunt with thunderheads.

I doan care for mech heads.
 
Posts: 3167 | Location: out behind the barn | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of blackbearhunter
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Thunderdead 125 3-blade= Favorite#1choice
snuffer 125 3-blade=Favorite#1choice
Rocky mountain 3- blade=Favorite#2choice
Muzzy 4-blade=Favorite#2choice
These have allways given me great accuracy & game getting results...
 
Posts: 3608 | Location: USA | Registered: 08 September 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of ghostbird
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Another vote for 125 gr Thunderheads !!!
I've used a lot of differnt broadheads over the years and always keep coming back to the Thunderheads... tough to beat !
I do want to try the Hellrazors though...
Andy


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Posts: 561 | Location: North Alabama, USA | Registered: 14 February 2009Reply With Quote
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Hey Nick, welcome to the site. Hope you find it worthy of sticking around.

Your questions is one that is asked by many, including seasoned archers. The results however will be somewhat akin to asking who makes the best truck.

Do yourself a favor, make sure you bow is correctly tuned in first, then worry about which broadhead is to your liking. A well tuned bow will allow you to shoot just about any broad head with little if any changes to your sights. While on the other hand, a poorly tuned bow will throw even the best broad heads for a loop.

There are also other factors such as the poundage of your bow, what your hunting, fletching, and arrow spine that will also impact which will work best for you.

The longer the heads, generally the more they are influenced by tuning, over the shorter heads. THe main thing is that your happy with YOUR choice and CONFIDENT in your ability with them. There really aren't too many bad choices, it's somewhat like fishing lures however as there seems to be a lot of designs made for the archers rather than for the game, if you know what I mean. If you research ten manufacturers sights, they will all be THE BEST thing since sliced bread.

I jumped into archery two years ago, and had a LOT of help from a couple of seasoned archers. The number one thing they emphasized was tuning, and practice. I started looking at several different types of heads which carried the thickest blades, as most of my hunting involves feral hogs of various sizes. I figured that no matter what the type or brand, if it worked on them a deer didn't have a chance.

I settled on the Slick Trick - Razor Trick, simply because of price and availability both locally and where I hunt, which makes it nice if I need replacement blades or heads. I generally keep an extra set of each, but sometimes things happen.

I have had no issues with these heads doing their job even on full shoulder shots on hogs. I haven't hit a deer with them as of yet, but it isn't the fault of the head, I have simply not hit the ones I have shot at. LOL

Good luck with your decision, and like I said get that bow tuned up properly first and it will make things a LOT easier for you.


Mike / Tx

 
Posts: 444 | Registered: 19 June 2005Reply With Quote
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Just about any broadhead will kill when it goes into the right place. To me, a matter of serious consideration is how tough the head is.

Here's some of the animals that I've taken with Slick Trick Magnum 100 broadheads.



This boar was shot and died within 25 yards. The broadhead was buried into the off shoulder so deep that I had to use my knife and chip out bone before I could pull the head with a pliers. But I pulled the broadhead, resharpened it (although it didn't need it) and used it to kill a buffalo.



One Shot Kill


This one took two shots to down...But the Slick Tricks did a great job. The resharpened ST was the arrow that put it on the ground.



This is my biggest animal to date with a bow or a rifle. One shot and it was down. The broadhead clipped the top of the heart, took out both lungs and broke a rib on the off side. 137 yards later, I had the first bow-killed Asian Water Buffalo in Michigan's UP...
 
Posts: 816 | Location: Whitlock, TN | Registered: 23 March 2009Reply With Quote
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I use both screw and glue on Magnus heads.
 
Posts: 369 | Location: Adirondacks | Registered: 08 February 2009Reply With Quote
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Picture of Slider
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I use 100gr Siver Flames. I've taken numerous Elk,Mule Deer,Kudu,Gemsbok,Black Widebeest,Zebra and Impala.They don't fall far from the tree!!!


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Posts: 2208 | Location: East Wenatchee | Registered: 18 August 2008Reply With Quote
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If your bow is reasonably tuned - it should shoot field points and broad heads almost the same out to 35 / 40 yards. Once you get beyond this distance you will quickly see a huge difference if your bow is not well tuned.

Most mechanicals will hit the same spot as your field points - even from a "not so well tuned" bows - the old guys will whine at the thought of mechanicals - let me assure there is not a lot wrong with the modern ones - The Grim Reapers I currently shoot take a hell of a lot of beating.

Then you get onto the question of two blade versus multi blade - again if your bow is properly tuned the choice should be easy - I experimented (yes it is costly) but found that my X Bow loved some broad heads more than others - Silver flames from German Kinetics are the best performing especially when attached to a grizzly stick arrow - the 750 grain package is hard to beat on anything found in North America.

Most bow hunter’s I have met or hunted with out here don’t even know what a silver flame is – let alone hunt with them. Cabelas don’t stock them – so that seems to be the problem I guess.

So the answer is – tune your bow – try different style broad heads, Your bow will like some and spit others – practice and practice – shoot out to 40 yards and beyond if you want to see what your equipment does when you get there.


..--..
 
Posts: 217 | Location: BC - Canada | Registered: 08 January 2010Reply With Quote
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100 gr G5's....sweet and they fly true.

Gary
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Posts: 1964 | Location: NE Georgia, USA | Registered: 21 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I have killed over 50 whitetails with archery equipment. Have used everything possible and now have settled on Muzzy 100 gr. three blades.

Am trying Rage in 2010 just to see how they perform.
 
Posts: 3110 | Location: NJ, MN, MT | Registered: 30 December 2009Reply With Quote
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Shof: Congrats on "the first bow-killed Asian Water Buffalo in Michigan's UP."

How cool is that?!?

btw... RAGE mechanicals seem to be working on my Whitetails just fine.

-Had Venison Tacos last night. Wink

archer
 
Posts: 450 | Registered: 20 August 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Hawkeye Mountaineer:
Shof: Congrats on "the first bow-killed Asian Water Buffalo in Michigan's UP."

How cool is that?!?

btw... RAGE mechanicals seem to be working on my Whitetails just fine.

-Had Venison Tacos last night. Wink

archer


Thanks on the congrats! Let me tell you, it was pretty spooky standing on the edge of the woods, crotch deep in snow, thinking about inflicting bodily harm on something that could stomp me into fuzzy jello. It helped knowing the guide was standing there with my .45/70 loaded with 540 grain Hammerheads, but still, once I let that arrow go, my knees started knocking together like castanets!

There's a number of good broadheads on the market, but based on how quickly I've killed deer, boar, sheep and two different kinds of buffalo, I'll stay with my Slick Tricks for now....
 
Posts: 816 | Location: Whitlock, TN | Registered: 23 March 2009Reply With Quote
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I really like the results I have had with Muzzy 100gr. I just bought a Matthews Monster. I may have to take it to SA next year.

Rich
 
Posts: 23062 | Location: SW Idaho | Registered: 19 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of garretttodd
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i have been using the shutle t 100gr for the past few years and have yet to find anything that it wont get a good pass through on. I'm using a DXT at 70lbs


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Posts: 64 | Location: Fort worth, Texas | Registered: 10 May 2008Reply With Quote
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I've had great luck with 100 grain Thunderheads on stuff up to the size of moose. Great elk broadhead in my opinion.

The key to penetration, no matter the broadhead (including mechanicals), is to have a very well tuned bow that gives you very clean arrow flight. An arrow that is flying very true will penetrate deeply, even with a lesser quality broadhead.

The key to killing cleanly is to make sure those blades are as sharp as possible, no matter the brand or style of head.
 
Posts: 3534 | Location: California | Registered: 01 January 2009Reply With Quote
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Slick Tricks 100gr mags
 
Posts: 498 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 22 May 2004Reply With Quote
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I used to shoot Muzzy 100 gr 3 blade broadheads exclusively but have switched to 100 gr 3 blade rage. Never had a problem with the muzzy they are a great broadhead but have been getting much quicker recoveries with the rage. I have not had a whitetail go more than 60-70 yds after the shot. But if I was hunting something bigger than whitetail deer I would definitely switch back to fixed blade. For a target I shoot at a glendel full rut with broadheads and they are a little hard on it.

Jason
 
Posts: 144 | Location: sw Michigan | Registered: 19 February 2009Reply With Quote
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