Can anyone tell me at what serial number range Ruger stopped making the adjustable trigger?

Is there any external sign if a #1 has that trigger?

Thanks in advance,
Herb

Herb; I've been led to believe #1s with the red butt pad have the adjustable trigger, ser. # series I don't know. --- John 303

Oops I replaced the pad about a year ago and don't recall its color.Thanks for the info though.
Herb

Herb,

I can’t remember the year or serial # range they changed the trigger.

It doesn’t take much to find out what your trigger is though. Remove the pad and use a 7/16 socket with a 10” or 12” extension to remove the stock bolt. Tap the stock rearward on the front of the comb with the heel of your hand until it’s loose then just pull it off.

Once the stock is off, this is what the adjustable trigger looks like.



This is what the new triggers look like.

If you want the adjustment, Brownells has a trigger by a company called Moyers, that duplicates the original Ruger trigger. Even better is the Kepplinger set trigger, although it is rather expensive.

The three screw adjustable trigger was used up till 1980 or so, after that you will end up with the two screw non-adjustable trigger. In 1980 Ruger # 1's were in the serial number range of 132-01360-07158, so on average anything much above 132-07158 should have a two screw trigger and anything under 132-01360 should have the three screw trigger.

Of course none of this is carved in stone but it's very close to being on the money.
I got all this Info from the Files section of the Ruger # 1 group site at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/ruger-1 Hope this helps you out.

Thanks to everyone for the helpful info.
Looks like I'll be ordering a Moyers trigger very soon to rid the rifle of its 5 1/2 lb. pull and hopefully shrink its groups at the same time.

The Moyers trigger is casting. One I had gotten was rather rough on the sides and also has a grooved trigger face which I did not care for.

I ordered a new one, and today took a hand grinder(Foredom type)and ground the face smooth until it had no more grooves. I then contured, and rounded off edges so it is all smooth and feels more like a high grade shotgun trigger. I then sanded to a 400 grit finish, blued and installed. I now have a spare for the next Ruger #1 big bore. The finished trigger lookes better than the rough casting ( this was the only one of three that was rough like that and just did not look right). I have Kepplingers on my smaller bores and only have the Moyers on my two tropical models where I feel a set trigger is unnecessary and unwanted.

Don't know exactly when Ruger stopped fitting the No. 1's with the thrtee-screw triggers, but some with red butt pads have the "new type".

I put a Kepplinger set trigger in a Ruger #1 223, and all that is left are the installation photos, as my favorite rifle was stolen.

I recall that I did not need to buy the expensive trigger, as a modified trigger would be easy to make. Looking at the geometry, the leverage from trigger to sear bar is all speed gain and force loss.

My new .223 #1V [twice as accurate as the old one] will get a home made trigger job.

For the first two years of production, Ruger used a trigger that impinged directly on the sear lever. To see what I mean, there's a good drawing of it, in Frank DeHaas single shot book. Then they went to the current toggle link setup. First with three screws, and now, two. I've used the Moyers, which is pretty good. The Kepplinger, while expensive, is my favorite. A top shelf trigger for the No.1.

Jeff

quote:

Originally posted by akjeff:
For the first two years of production, Ruger used a trigger that impinged directly on the sear lever. To see what I mean, there's a good drawing of it, in Frank DeHaas single shot book.
Jeff

Here's a blueprint of it.

That's the Type 1 Trigger, only used in the first year of Production.
ST

Thanks for posting the drawing Mick. If I'm in error, and this trigger was only used in the first year;not the two that I had posted...I stand corrected, and apologize.

Jeff

quote:

Originally posted by akjeff:
Thanks for posting the drawing Mick. If I'm in error, and this trigger was only used in the first year;not the two that I had posted...I stand corrected, and apologize.

Jeff

The Ruger No 1 when through a few changes over the years. I apologize to you if you thought I was challenging you. The development of the No 1 has progressed over the years. It’s not the same rifle that it started out to be. I was only adding a picture for people to look at if they were interested in the subject. Set-Trigger said 1 year, you say 2 years. So what. It’s highly unlikely that any one can buy one of those rifles in a pawn shop today.

Mick & Jeff,
I agree, it's not a big deal when the Type 1 trigger was used unless you are a collector and you want everything original, actually I believe it was only used in about the first 3 months of the first year and they are very hard to just about impossible to find, But from a shooting or using standpoint it should not make a difference. The Type 2 Trigger has it's problems but is a very good trigger and very adjustable, it's the Type 3 Trigger that is just about useless.
ST

Mick/ST,

No challenge assumed at all. On the contrary, I welcome the info! I agree, the current trigger isn't the greatest. I'm very partial to the Kepplinger. It's very expensive, but it's a great trigger. Now that I have a small mill, I'd to try to make a trigger, similar to the original...one of these days!

Jeff

I learned something from this thread.
When I looked at the Ruger trigger, I thought that Bill Ruger had intentionally left an opportunity for someone to easily improve the trigger. The Kepplinger is so much better than the stock trigger even when not using the "set" feature, because it pushes up on the sear bar further back for more leverage.
It did not occur to me that it had originally been better.


The stock trigger right view


The stock trigger left view



The Kepplinger trigger


My plans to modify my #1 I made back when I was installing the Kepplinger.

quote:

Originally posted by akjeff:
Mick/ST,

Now that I have a small mill, I'd to try to make a trigger, similar to the original...one of these days!

Jeff

Jeff, interesting project. When you get around to making a type 1 trigger you’ll need to post some pictures.

quote:

The Type 2 Trigger has it's problems but is a very good trigger and very adjustable, it's the Type 3 Trigger that is just about useless.

Very true ST.

I put up with the type 3 triggers for years until I bought a 7mm Rem No 1 B (third one I owned in that caliber and model) that was so bad I just couldn’t stand it any more so I replaced it with a Moyers. That Moyers made me wonder why I ever put up with such junk (Type 3 trigger). Currently I own 5 no 1s four have Moyer triggers and one has a Kepplinger. I plan on getting another 1V this year and the first thing, even before it gets a scope, it gets a trigger job.

Tnekkcc,

The first picture I posted is a Moyer’s copy (stainless steel) of the Type 2 or “3 screw” Ruger trigger. It might be confusing to some readers when I throw around the name Moyer’s trigger without saying that it’s just a copy of what use to be in the gun.

Nice pictures tnekkcc, thanks for sharing them. I don’t have any pictures of the Type 3 trigger installed.

quote:

Originally posted by MickinColo:

quote:

Originally posted by akjeff:
Mick/ST,

Now that I have a small mill, I'd to try to make a trigger, similar to the original...one of these days!

Jeff

Jeff, interesting project. When you get around to making a type 1 trigger you’ll need to post some pictures.

Mick,

I will do that. More than likely, I will go with a geometry similar to the Kepplinger, rather than the factory "Type 1" trigger. Should be fairly simple, and I find the unset Kepplinger, to be a great single stage trigger.

Jeff

Jeff,
I think a trigger set up as a single stage similar to the Kepp trigger without the set feature would be a much better trigger that the Ruger Type 1 or 2, and of course better than the Moyers.

To the best of my knowledge the Kepp is the only trigger made for the # 1 that is linkless, and a linkless trigger that has a direct contact on the sear would be the way to go. If you make more than one would it be possible to buy one or more from you ?.
ST

S-T,

It's going to take me a while to get around to it, as I'm just getting into metalworking, and getting tooling, and have much to learn! But I will surely keep you in mind, when I make them.

Jeff

While you lads are mucking about, I have these questions for you. Would it be possible to modifly the safety so that "when on" the block is locked in place? Finding the gun open because I've hooked the lever on something is a problem, in fact I now just carry the round in my hand till needed - no surprise that way. I've been led to believe that the "first" model had this feature? --- John303.

Well, the horrible Ruger Trigger will be history as the #1 is at the smith's to get the Moyers installed. Can't wait to get it back (should be two weeks or so) so I can experiment with loads for the .338 Edge.

All that talk about the Kepplinger makes me drool. On my next #1 I'll have to try one unless I can talk the wife into putting one on her 25-06. Now I'll have to see if she has an early or late trigger.

Anyway, thanks for the great info.

Herb