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Engine Turning Advice

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09 February 2006, 04:51
mousegun
Engine Turning Advice
I like the way it looks so I decided to try it on a Turk Mauser. I started with the follower and it turned out pretty good, but I filed it off and started over. Apparently engine turning dosent cover up scratches and minor pitting like I thought it would.

Anyhow, as soon as the follower is done I plan to do the bolt. I am using the brushes from brownells and a drill press with a cross-feed vice. (I found that a pencil eraser works too). Is it possible to do the bolt on my set-up, or do I need an indexing bolt jig, (like what Brownells sells)?

Also, is there a better brush or device that will do the same thing faster or better? I am now filing, sanding, and polishing the metal parts, hoping the swirls will look better. The swirls on the follower didnt "stand out" very well using the brush or eraser, (actually I thought the eraser worked better than the brush). I think polishing first will help.

Any advice appreciated.


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Originally posted by BART185

I've had another member on this board post an aireal photograph of my neighborhood,post my wifes name,dig up old ads on GunsAmerica,call me out on everything that I posted. Hell,obmuteR told me to FIST MYSELF. But you are the biggest jackass that I've seen yet, on this board!
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-Ratboy
09 February 2006, 22:05
Rusty Marlin
CRATEX makes a 1/4" dia. rod that works well. Its available in 4 differnet grits. That's what we pleayed with at work when we looked at doing it.
No messy clover paste to clean up.

You will need some way of rotatingthe bolt in a controlled manner to do it right. A tape flag and a protrator would make a handy poor man's index device.


Rusty's Action Works
Montross VA.
Action work for Cowboy Shooters &
Manufacturer of Stylized Rigby rifle sights. http://i61.photobucket.com/alb.../th_isofrontleft.jpg
09 February 2006, 22:23
Scrollcutter
I have the Brownell's fixture. Frankly, for the cost of it I'm not that impressed with it. It does a pretty accurate jog of indexing in the rotary axis.

Since you already have the linear axis covered you might try a spin indexer for the rotary plane. I just bought one for 30 bucks. You would also need a tailstock and the right 5C collet.


Roger Kehr
Kehr Engraving Company
(360)456-0831
09 February 2006, 22:59
malm
I use the little stainless brushes and 2 "O" rings to keep the brush from spreading open when I apply downward pressure. I coat the piece I'm jeweling with Clover's 320 (1-A) grit valve lapping compound and set my spindle speed on high. I set the spindle travel stop that will give the best overall pattern. Success depends on the technique you employ and uniformity. When I bring the brush into contact with the piece, I will count to 6 or 10, depending on how well defined I want the swirls, and maintain that rhythm throughout the job. You might want to practice a bit so you know how far to advance the piece with each swirl pattern. If you screw it up, becareful how much material you file and sand away. It's easier to take it off than put it back. Good luck!
10 February 2006, 01:10
MKane160
I have Brownell's fixture, too, and I'm not impressed either. It needs a small rod through the upper ends to stiffen it. The ends are too flexible....but then it's made of rather thin aluminum. I use a tube made from a .17 HMR casing over my brush to stiffen it. It just leaves the very end of the brush exposed...

MKane160


You can always make more money, you can never make more time...........LLYWD. Have you signed your donor card yet?
10 February 2006, 01:45
Scrollcutter
MKkane160,

I haven't tried that fixture. I was referring to their indexing fixture.

I use the little wire brushes with 500 grit Clover compound. I grind the brush down so the wires are about 1/8" long. That way they don't flare out and make a bigger swirl.


Roger Kehr
Kehr Engraving Company
(360)456-0831