It seems to me that I have yet to find a stock (particularily synthetic) that wants to hang on to the sling swivel studs. Not that they fall or pull out, they just don't stay tight. How do you secure them so they hold without permanently installing them? Or is permanent the way to go?

Chuck

I know what you mean, I have the problem with the screw in sling swivels on my wood stocks. I gotta say, I really hate it when they move. I recommend locking them in there seriously, maybe some epoxy. Or if you can find the old sling swivels which screwed into the stock, but the swivel itself moved independantly, so it never backed the threads out. Brownells has some by NECG that would probably work good in the forend, they go through the wood and have a nut that threads on the other end. I like the ones like dakota has that take two screws and therefor can never turn on you. Look good too.

look at items 692-925-002, 661-000-032, 593-101-100, 359-111-001, 874-002-202

hope that helps.

Red

Epoxy. I use locktite on the forend swivel if it goes into a metal nut, but that is only because I have a couple bottles laying around, otherwise I'd epoxy them too. On a plastic-type synthetic stock if you want it to seriously stay put dip a toothpick in some PVC plastic pipe primer and rub that in the hole first.

No, no plastic. These are for fiberglass stocks. The only drawback to epoxy that I can see is not being able to remove them during repainting. Is there any other reason you would want to remove them in the future?

Chuck

You might want to remove them later on if you were going to refinish the gun.

I would at least try to blue locktite to see if that would work, before I put the epoxy to it. Before you apply the locktite make sure the threads on the stud and the nut are oil free.

It's ok to use the epoxy. A little heat and the epoxy will let go should they need to come out.. I degrease and glue them in all the time.. Be certain that the screw has been in the hole and tightened before gluing it down... A hint, After drilling a clearance hole for the screw(s) for the sling stud take the screw and grind a single flat on the tip. This flat should extend from the tip to where the threads are full diameter and should remove the threads from one side of the screws tip. This will allow the screw to 'cut' the threads into the wood, not swage them in. Swaging causes the wood to disintegrate when the screw is removed.. If you wish to remove the stud, a nail the size of the through hole is bent so it will hang in the hole and a torch is used to heat it until the epoxy is softened...