[This message has been edited by scot (edited 02-13-2002).]
OOOO steel wool
Automotive rubbing compound
Birchwood Casey Stock Conditioner(developed for Tru-Oil finish)
Both are very good modern finishes. the secret is to let the first heavy coat set up for a month or so then follow the instructions on the bottle, if you want the finish to truly be water proof...An old Pete Grisel trick, and he is never wrong....
for that high shine, use the put on wipe off method after the stock has filled, that beats the lint problem..then polish down with 600 to 800 to 1500 grit combined with finish mixed with mineral spirits..
I use a mix of 1/3 Tru-Oil, 1/3 Mineral Spirits,1/3 Watco for wet sanding and finishing, many times the first two coats will be tru-oil clear filler, then a good soaking with the above mix until the wood will take no more and is shiney when dry, then I set it away for about 45 days or more...then wet sand to 360 grit then knock off the shine with 3m scotch pad (maroon or white) and the above mix with rotten stone, let dry 48 hrs. and then light rub Pilkington Red oil on 4 or 5 time over a week or two then rub down one more time with the mix and stone...let sit for a couple of weeks, then checker..I like a flat finish on hunting rifles and a egg shell luster on show guns...but the high gloss is the most water resistant finish by far, its just reflective and butt ugly...
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Ray Atkinson
quote:
Originally posted by Atkinson:
I use a mix of 1/3 Tru-Oil, 1/3 Mineral Spirits,1/3 Watco for wet sanding and
I saw the Watco product at the local hardware store, but it was in different "colors", no clear, so I didn't get any. Do you use it "pre colored" or clear?
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Ray Atkinson