Does anyone have a book or two out showing
the tricks how to do trigger work?

Since our local gunsmith died 2 years ago
we don't have anyone locally that will do
them.

I'm just sitting on my ass most of the days
reading. IF I knew what to do, I'd give it a
try. IF I wreck one could always mail it off
to DPCD. Right Tom? Ha!

Thanks guys,
George

Liability.

Dave

I know of no book that will or can give the idiosyncrasies and finesse required to work on triggers. Nor will I write one; it would take forever and sell two copies.

Triggers come in all different flavors! The old M700 trigger has 3 adjustment screws for adjustment. If you know what you're doing, adjustment is easy; if you don't, it will malfunction. This is an easy trigger. The Winchester M70 trigger is best adjusted by stoning the sear and trigger. This is also fraught with peril, but is a straightforward job for a pro. My advice would be to send the rifle to a professional. Granted it is a PITA, but in the long run it will be cheaper & less frustrating than learning on a trigger that probably has no replacement parts.

Not to discourage your wanting to learn, professionals had to learn somehow, too, but there is a learning curve with triggers. First, the operation of the trigger must be completely understood. Then, the adjustment techniques learned. Triggers are easy to mess up. Consider the replacement cost versus gunsmith labor.

Gunsmith will disagree with me but in my view stoning/tuning triggers is not hard. Trigger work is an enjoyable and satisfying pass time.

Do this, I have done it many times.

Google, DIY "Stoning/tuning... " for the trigger that you will be doing.
There is lots of DIY info on the web on doing trigger work. some of it is good. You can tell. (Some jokers suggest using a dremel tool. I wouldn't!)

-Follow the instructions and go slowly, testing regularly after a little light stoning.
-You can usually get down to a crisp, safe 3-3.5 lb. trigger with just a Fine or Super Fine, Eze-Lap knife sharpening hone/stone. A nice hard trigger stone from Brownells, etc is best. Use a little oil.
I get to a crisp 2.75 lbs with a little patients. I recently did it with a TC Encore and had to reassemble and disassemble the damned thing about 7 times. It took a few days, and some bad language. Perfect covid 19 project!
-Don't change the angles by accident or "rock" the stone.

-Use strong reading glasses or magnifiers. I bought a low priced microscope years ago but I seldom use it now for triggers. You soon develop a bit of a feel for stoning.
- Remember just lightly stone a bit and reassemble and test it. Go slowly.

Incidentally, the only new rifle that I have not had to clean up, "stone", was a new model 70 in 375HH.
After you do one of your rifles you will likely end up touching up the rest of your rifles. It's satisfying.

Apologies to all gunsmiths. ( I have had trigger stoning done on several rifles and pistols in the past by "qualified" gunsmiths, the work was always disappointing. That's how I started doing it myself about 40 years ago long before I got internet DIY help.)
Brian

You might want to telephone Shane Harless at Harless Precision on the south side of Colorado Springs, actually in Fountain, CO. I’ve been very pleased with work quality, price and turn around time. (719)390-1886

Just like handloading for others, it's a potential legal liability. I built one for myself for my Krag Scout as there were no replacement triggers for the Krag (or at least not then). I drilled, tapped + threaded the trigger body after removing any excess weight, ran a screw through + dbl. nutted it w/ locktite just shy of the sear. There is NO overtravel or anything else in the feel of a military trigger. I did this for myself + it works like a charm but I would never do it for someone else. Over the years of loading for others, I had one bad experience (total B.S. the guy just wanted his money back after he shot up damn near all the ammo.) but that was more than enough for me. If I were tried TRULY by a jury of my peers I would have no problem, good luck on finding 12 handloaders on the jury.

George, Sorry, I might have made a mistake. I got it in my head that you were looking to learn how to work on triggers for your own guns and I was trying to help in that context.
I realize that I might have got that wrong.
The other guys are right. I personally, wouldn't do trigger work for other people. Brian

lots more to learn than just the trigger - like knowing how to get to it -things like hi walls , ruger#1 - sharps borchert doubles etc

Don't tell the troops but guns and triggers are just mechanical devices. Screw, lever and the inclined plane.
One can modify/tune them a little bit without risk. Same as hand loading.

Guess I should have told more.
Thought it was clear enough.

Only wanting to do my own.
Either Blackhawks or Snubby Smith
I have one of each that needs worked
on now and plan on buying another BH
soon.

Am at the point of no interest in more
rifles. Way too many not being shot now.
Same with the wheel guns but, at least I
can tinker and shoot them in the shop at
the trap when I desire.

Thanks guys, Brian I might pm you.
Whb: thanks, I'll contact him. Only 30
miles up there.

George

George,

YouTube probably has the info you need, but I really like Patrick Sweeney's books. I also think David Chicoine has a book on "Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West" that went through trigger work and trigger geometry for Single Actions, and had other great info.

I also really like the Jerry Miculek trigger and action job video for S&W's. He pulls the side plate and goes through every component.

Finally, there're Jerry Kuhnhaussen's books on each individual model.

HTH,
Steve

A good set of Ruby stones and a mod. 70 trigger is damn hard to beat, simple as can be, you just need to keep the angles the same and know when to stop..go slow, go careful to start with and in time you learn...same on a s&w or colt pistol..Some guns I would not attempt..and I wont' do trigger jobs for anyone but family. ON Smiths I see no need to work on the cocked trigger, but do like a good double action slick up..I know of no tricks etc. just common since and practice removing a bit of metal, not rocket science..

I too like fiddling with my own.

I started after taking my first pistol to a pro, and what he returned was an un-usable mess. He had done just two things. Firstly he ground off the corner of the single-action sear, with the result that a careful squeeze of the trigger meant that the hammer dropped onto the double-action mechanism, and secondly he had cut so much of the mainspring that most brands of primer required a second hit to go bang...

In this specific regard, for the stoning, I like using Lansky stones (the fine and super-fine), as I can usually set up some sort of a jig using the guide rod to make sure I don't screw up the angle with my wobbly keyboard-warrior hands...

But for the guns you mention, there is a lot more involved in getting a good trigger (and this is especially true of the double-action pull on your Smith snubby) than stoning the sear and bent.

You will get more improvement from judiciously working on the surfaces where the internals rub against each other and the frame, and for this a set of buffing wheels on the abovementioned Dremel tool might be just the ticket, assuming you are careful to not round off any corners that should not be round.

As ever, before you start, make very sure you understand exactly how it works before you start modifying...

I would like to know some good gunsmiths that work on 1911. I need a trigger job and perhaps throat the chamber..

If you go to singleactions.com there are some posts under single actions on how to work on a Ruger Blackhawk trigger.