I've the rifle metal prepped with 320 grit and today will attempt first pass of solution. the water is nothing more than fresh mountain snow melted down. Question is after boiling, drying and cardin can I still use the same water from the 1st boiling? almost seems like I should change it but the instructions have no mention of changing every boiling process.

While I'm not ever close to a professional, I have done a little bit of rust bluing.

I re-used the water until it looked funky (2-3 cycles) with good results. My problem was finding "good water" so I held onto what I had.

If the water is "good" in the first place, and it sounds like yours is, no need to change after every boil. I usually change it after 4 or 5 cycles.

appreciate the help........I'll do process up to 4x's and change
thankyou

I usually change it after 3 cycles.
Or if it looks like it needs it before that..

I am curious. What makes the water that you are using go from good to bad?

I don't know for sure if the water actually goes "bad". But, it does turn rusty brown looking and a brown sediment accumulates.

Do you think you could filter the water and keep using it?

quote:

Originally posted by impala#03:
Do you think you could filter the water and keep using it?

Probably would work just fine.

maybe a guy might get by with a coffee filter?

After all the hard work put into prepping the metal the last thing you want to do is take a short cut with the water. You should be able to buy enough certified distilled water to do the job for $20 or so. I go through 20 litres for a complete rifle.
One thing that is not mentioned in any rust blueing instructions that I have read ( R.H Angier/Pilkington/Gun Goddess) is when to change the water out, but after doing it for ten years now I ditch it after 2 cycles.

Metal

It would be fun to see some good photos of your work.

One of my issues when I reuse water over and over is a gradual build up of acidity. After 4-5 cycles you have transfered enough blueing agent (which use acids to accelerate rusting) to the water that a week or 10 days after you finish, you risk a rust bloom from the residual acid on the metal from humidity. Even after oiling. I either use new water for the last boil or in some cases I have added a little blueprint ammonia to the water to neutralize the acids. Tried baking soda one time with regret. Wasted more water trying to get the last powder residue off the metal than a new boil would have taken.

I usually go one of the water pruifing kiosks around town and buy RO water for 25 cents a gallon.

There are a few ways you can prevent after rusting.1.rest parts in a warm, weak alkaline bath to neutralise.2.Leave them sit for 12 hours or so after the last boil/card then re-boil every thing in fresh clean water, dry then oil when still hot.I do the latter.
Silvertip, I'll try to post some pics if I can figure out how.

quote:

Originally posted by metal:
There are a few ways you can prevent after rusting.1.rest parts in a warm, weak alkaline bath to neutralise.2.Leave them sit for 12 hours or so after the last boil/card then re-boil every thing in fresh clean water, dry then oil when still hot.I do the latter.
Silvertip, I'll try to post some pics if I can figure out how.

You need a place to host your photos first. If you don't already have one try Photobucket.

good bit of info.....appreciate the knowledge here.

The best way to avoid after-rust is to use a formula that does not contain hydrochloric acid. If you do, then soak the part in a cold 10% solution of lye(drain cleaner) and distilled water overnight. Steaming is the way to go with rust blueing. It eliminates water quality problems. Steam is naturally pure.

I use Gun Goddess or Laurel Mtn Forge. Have never had a problem with after rust. I do boil again after the final card, then another light card and then oil.

I've completed the rust bluing and apologize for no pics but Pilkington RB impresses me on the final finish. I used my water 3/s and changed. Now onto the Gun Goddess and make a box etc...have a 35' Chilean 7mm in stock form to practice on....thanks fellas.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe:
I'd bet a Big Mac it's the water. Use "steam distilled" It must say steam distilled. There is a "pressure distilled" and is pure enough to injet into your veins, but not good enough for rust bluing

When I followed the above advice from Duane Wiebe in this thread. All of my rust bluing struggles/problems disappeared after that point in time.

I too have used the Pilkingtons and Gun Goddess with very good results and Brownell's has their Classic rust blue solution that works quite well and is half the price of the other 2.

Steam the parts with any kind of water and you will eliminate water problems. That's what armories did in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Live steam is the answer. Quit fussing about water quality. I rust blue guns at home with a PVC pipe on top of a $10 SS pot using steam and get fabulous results with tap water.