stuck rings and bases

13 November 2001, 09:51

Fritz Kraut

A well assorted iron mongerï¿½s shop sells a fluid, which you apply in the allen heads. Of course it can be used for usual screws to. Itï¿½s the same manufacturer as usual Loc-tite, but I canï¿½t remember the name of it now. However, I think the iron monger will help you if ask for it.

If the scope is still there, you should avoid any use of heat, as heat would destroy the stuff used for making the scope tight.

Fritz

[This message has been edited by Fritz Kraut (edited 11-13-2001).]

13 November 2001, 11:40

D Humbarger

"CAREFULLY" drill the the heads of the allen screws out. Use a drill bit a wee bit smaller diameter than the of the allen heads.
set your drill stop on the drill press for the thickeness of the allen head. You will drill the head off & the studs left behind are easy to unscrew. Then repllace them with Torx head screws. Works every time.

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[This message has been edited by Bear Claw (edited 11-13-2001).]

13 November 2001, 13:11

Atkinson

I usually grind a screw driver to fit and leave the edges sharp and square all the way around and drive it into the allen head with a hammer and then turn them out...toss the screw, replace them with tork screws and give the owner a stern lecture on the evils of the allen head screw....and sometimes I have to drill the sobs out...

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

13 November 2001, 14:54

<ol crip>

Jayloar, I have had good luck using a little lapping compound like 400 or 500 grit. Use a T handle allen wrench and dip it in compound. Also works well on stuck phillips head screws. Once you get them out, trash them and do like Ray said. replace w/torqs heads.

KEEP YOUR POWDER DRY...OL CRIP

14 November 2001, 04:10

<jayloar>

Where do you get torx head screws?

14 November 2001, 05:28

DavidReed

Try www.brownells.com . If you have to drill the screws out it would be an opportune time to replace them with the larger, stronger 8-40 screws. Any qualified smith could do this for you.

14 November 2001, 18:31

Bill Leeper

On allen head screws that are rounded out I have always taken the appropriate sized Robertson bit and driven it into the reluctant screw. It has seldom failed me. The screws are, of course junk afterward if they weren't before. Regards, Bill

20 February 2002, 13:56

mrfudd

What's the solution for stuck torx bits? I bent the splines on a craftsman 10 driver while trying to remove a set of burris mounts from a 700. Looks like someone may have used loctite when they installed the bases.

20 February 2002, 14:11

wildcat junkie

quote:
Originally posted by jayloar:
Any tricks for removing uncooperative rings and bases where the allen screws are starting to get a little stripped?

If you have an assortment of "easyouts" one size will lock into the stripped "allen" socket. If need be you can deepen the hole with a drill bit, the allen socket will act as a center. Make sure the drill bit is large enough so as to not lock into the allen socket, but small enough to allow enough "meat" around the hole for the easyout to grip.

A soldering iron is an excellent way to heat a screw without damaging the surrounding area with heat. After applying heat, a drop of penetrating oil can be aplied. The heat will tend to "suck in" the penetrating oil. Repeat this step a few times and the offending screw should back right out with little effort.

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Life is more exitin' when yer stickin' suppositories inta a wildcats behind!

21 February 2002, 02:48

Jay, Idaho

quote:
Originally posted by jayloar:
Any tricks for removing uncooperative rings and bases where the allen screws are starting to get a little stripped?

The Chapman kit is very good. I use metric adapters, driven into the inch socket to improve the grip on damaged sockets. 2.5mm is a few thou larger than 3/32, etc. You can tap on the end of the adapter while applying torque with the ratchet box wrench in the Chapman kit. Works for me.

21 February 2002, 03:19

TGetzen

Mr Fudd

You have two options for releasing the loctite:
1) hold Torx driver in place in the screw head and apply a soldering iron near the tip -- the heat will be conducted to the shank of the screw where the loctite is and soften it.

2) heat the driver with a torch, then stick in the screw head -- keep repeating until screw is hot enough to melt loctite.

I would not apply heat directly to the screw / receiver, unless you have a small soldering tip to hold against it. Give a sharp whack with a hammer on the driver handle to break it free before you try unscrewing.

Good luck,
Todd

[This message has been edited by Todd Getzen (edited 02-20-2002).]

21 February 2002, 09:42

<ol crip>

quote:
Originally posted by jayloar:
Any tricks for removing uncooperative rings and bases where the allen screws are starting to get a little stripped?

Jayloar, did you get your screws out yet?

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KEEP YOUR POWDER DRY...OL CRIP
NUCLEAR GRADE UBC RETIRED

[This message has been edited by ol crip (edited 02-21-2002).]

21 February 2002, 18:34

Atkinson

I have a small pistol like propane touch that is used in kitchens for carmalizing surger and I put the very small flame on the screw until the glass bubbles and I keep torq on the screw while heating it..its a snap...that stuff liquifys at low heat, so no worry about damage to the action.

that little propane pistol is a job saver, and you can even solder with it...I like it because it can localize the heat to like a screw head and threads...you can hold the mount bases in your hand when done....

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

22 February 2002, 09:08

<fishnfool>

When you go to replace the screws, make sure you get the set of screws that uses a T15 bit. The ones I bought from Brownells use the T10 bit and I go through bits like crazy, must have broken around 10 or so bits so far.

23 February 2002, 14:48

mrfudd

Thanks,

Will try the soldering iron tomorrow after I get a new torx bit. Upgrading from Burris Fullfield/Burris rings to Zeiss Conquest/Talleys.

25 February 2002, 11:36

Atkinson

fishnfool,
Anybody can break both, the torx gives a lot of holding power compared to other screws, you just don't have to bare down so hard as to break them, You ain't working on an off shore drilling rig ya know

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

25 February 2002, 12:50

mrfudd

I got them loose. Just took another t10 driver. Thank goodness for Craftsman-broke another bit in the process. Now for the next question-what is the preferred method for installing talley rings/bases.

mrfudd