How difficult is 45 auto trigger job?

26 October 2003, 13:10

I have a Colt 1991A1 that has had perhaps 1500 rounds through it. In hopes of improving the trigger pull, I paid a guy to install a McCormick trigger and hammer and do a trigger job. Well, he installed the parts and didn't change any springs or smooth any surfaces. Now I have a very clean breaking 7 lb trigger. I want to reduce the pull now. How hard is it to disassemble and smooth up the engagement surfaces a bit - and install a lighter spring while I'm at it, perhaps a sear. I have never taken a government model pistol apart. I have successfully installed new springs and smoothed the actions in a few rifles and a TC Encore, but am intimidated by the .45 auto. How hard is it? Also, what would you recommend in order to improve the trigger pull, and accurize the gun on a budget? Thanks in advance

26 October 2003, 13:54

Some years ago ('93 or so) I put together a Commander sized 45 from parts and used Chip's hammer and sear combo. I did no work to either, the contact surfaces were beautifully finished. I installed them and used the old pencil trick to adjust the firing pin spring spring by trimming it in length slowly. I used a new unsharpened wooden pencil and cut and ground the spring until the pencil would just hit my 8' high ceiling while I was sitting at my kitchen table holding the gun about waist height. Then I tweaked the trigger pull leaf such that I obtained a 3 3/4 # pull. Ever since it has been a very fine, reliable and SAFE trigger after many, many rounds.

26 October 2003, 16:28

mete

There are books and videos available for those who have never worked on a 1911. Make sure you know what you are doing before you attemt to take it apart and work on it.

26 October 2003, 17:23

<G.Malmborg>

Ferdinand,

Mete is absolutely correct. Semi-auto triggers are something that you need to approach with caution. There is a lot happening as the slide slams back and forth with the hammer bouncing off the sear and if it's not done right, then there is sure to be trouble.

Do a lot of reading and/or viewing before tackling this job and proceed slowly. Make sure your source describes in detail the methods of testing for hammer follow, the disconnect, safety engagement and testing for sear bounce.

Good luck,

Malm

27 October 2003, 09:29

<Crow>

If you paid a guy to do a trigger job and he didn't do it, why not ask him about that? Don't know about other areas, but I charge $65 for a 1911 trigger job, plus parts. If it's a Para SA, you gotta buy a new hammer, but for most others, factory parts will usually suffice. A new sear spring is normally not required, and for most work, I leave the mainspring as is.

To do a proper job, you neeed jigs and stones, period. You can probably improve it some yourself by just polishing the hammer hooks and the sear nose a bit with a Dremel and jeweler's rouge, but no grinding!!

Colt sears are quite hard, which is desireable, but if you get another, use a C&S or EGW.

How accurate do you want it? Are you shooting Bullseye or IPSC?

Lots of good info on the net, do a search and you can get quite a bit of material. If you're unsure, have someone that knows do it for you.

Rich

27 October 2003, 01:05

Hot Core

quote:
Originally posted by Ferdinand:
How hard is it? Also, what would you recommend in order to improve the trigger pull, and accurize the gun on a budget? Thanks in advance

Hey Ferdinand, I don't think they are hard to work on at all, but I've messed with 45ACPs since about 1960. One pretty good book on them is "The Custom Governmant Model Pistol" by Layne Simpson. And there are plenty of other ones around as well.

One of the very best attributes of this pistol, is the availability of excellent inexpensive Sears, Triggers and Springs. No need at all to "learn" on the McCormick parts. Practice on some off-the-shelf stuff so you learn not to change the "angles" as you polish them with stones.

If you are in a rush to complete the task, let a qualified Gunsmith do it to the McCormick stuff. You can still get the cheap stuff and learn how to do it as time allows.

...

After any alterations or adjustments to the Trigger Assembly, ALWAYS load only one cartridge in the pistol and fire it. If the hammer remains back - good. Fire a few more one at a time and then go to two cartridges in the magazine.

If the hammer follows the single shot down - bad. Here you would have gone Full Auto and without expecting it, you could loose control of the pistol.

It has been awhile since I've bought anything from these folks, but they used to have excellent prices and a Parts Catalog which would make you a good Tear-Down Reference Guide:

Accur-Tune
529 S. Main St.
P.O.B. 190
Belton, SC 29627
(803) 338-5695
(800) 588-7541 Orders Only

Best of luck to you.

27 October 2003, 03:02

Ferdinand

Thanks for the responses. I'll be heading off to the book store today to see if I can find a good bok on the subject. As to the gunsmith that changed the parts - I had it done and then moved to my current residence in another state without ever firing the gun and realizing the deficiencies of the work.
I'd like to be able to shoot 3 inch groups consistently at 25 yards, so that's the kind of accuracy I'm after.

27 October 2003, 03:45

Mark

Another good book is the one by Jerry Kuhnhausen.

If you cannot find books at a local bookstore, try your local library. If they do not have any they can get them through inter library loan. A great and often overlooked resource!

27 October 2003, 23:27

BAShooter

Ferdinand.

If you are going to re-work Mc Cormick parts,you may find a good explanation in "45Auto Custom Touches" by R.D.Nye at $12,95 in Brownells.
It is also indicated how to built a jig for checking hammer and sear adjustment .
It could be necessary to adjust Thumb Safety , it is also explained in this book.
It is necessary to be carefull because you will not use the specific jig for stoning the hammer hook and the sear cooresponding surface.

Good luck, hope this helps

BA Shooter