Just wondering what you all think:

It's getting close to hunting season, and I wonder if I need to parkerize my Mauser sporter before the teflon epoxy finish goes on, or put one of the tougher cold blues on it, or just put epoxy over bare metal?

What do you guys do?

Thanks,
Todd

I haven't ever used gunkote, so I would just read the instructions and do what they said to do.

If I couldn't find them I think I'd use a primer or just go over the bare metal.

Todd,

I have gunkoted a few pump shotguns , I bead blasted them to remove rust or old finish, plus it gives the paint something to stick to. Then degreased with lacquer thinner or a commercial auto painting degreaser. Then sprayed it on and baked it in the oven. It really holds up.
FN

I'ld glass bead or sand to clean bare metal, degrease with thinner or acetone, tack, paint and bake.
I would be real hesitant to use any primer under a bake-on finish.
Also, be careful not to touch the bare metal with your bare hands between degreasing and painting and be double sure there isn't any wax or silicone products anywhere near the surface your painting.
Using a rag with traces of Armour-All or wax on it has ruined more paint jobs than you or I'll ever see.

It is not sufficient merely to bead blast the substrate. You must sand blast it. KG recommends aluminum oxide grit or sand (not sure how course it must be). Bead blasting alone will not sufficiently etch the surface to provide good adhesion. Also, for a really bullet proof finish, consider phosphating or parkerizing the metal (after sand blasting, but before applying the KG). The KG bonds very well to the phosphated/parkerized surface and the combination of the two gives enhanced protection over the KG alone. There is a guy who advertizes in the Gun List and sells a phosphating solution that works very well for the home hobbyist. Can't think of his name, but look under Gunsmithing Supplies in the Gun List.

Regards,

Jordan

I and a buddy have used Gun Kote something over 20 times, and I've never done anything but bead blast the surface.

Only cautions I'd offer are:

Use THIN coats - two to three coats as thin as you can get them seem to be more resistant to flaking than a single thicker coat.

Also, both the spray on and bake temperature should be closely regulated and very close to the temp listed in the directions.

Naturally, degrease completely before heating and applying the finish or it'll flake off.

Gun Kote, when applied properly, can be pretty darn resistant to wear, but hard surfaces repeatedly abrading it can wear it.

It's also VERY rust resistant, and comes in several colors. I like flat black and the dark olive best, but that's just a personal thing.