Gents:
I have a minty 1950 Ithaca Model 37 in 16 gauge that unfortunately has a large wedge chipped off the top of the butt where the wrist joins the receiver. It is a clean break that should mend well. But I could use some advice on which adhesive to use and how to clean up the glueline so it is nearly invisible. I have the usual "crazy glue" adhesives on hand, along with epoxies. (I am out of Accraglass.) Once I apply the adhesive and hold or clamp, is there any sort of solvent I can use to clean the glueline that won't harm the stock finish?
Appreciate all advice.

I've used a lot of different types of glues. For what you describe I think I'd use Titebond wood glue, it's waterroof and very strong when cured. Apply it, hold/clamp as usual. Clean excess with plain ol' water, no damage to finish.

I will only add that in matters where shock or torque are going to be applied to a repair on a stock , perhaps an epoxy is better suited for absolute holding power .

Craigster ; Gave sound advise and Is correct .
Titebond is an excellent adhesive and they make different types .

When cleaning any excess adhesive it's best to wipe with a clean dry rag first , then follow with appropriate solvent if necessary !! . Epoxy can be cleaned with WAX on a rag while wet !. So as not to damage the stocks finish .

Ideally applying what ever adhesive to both sides or pieces to be joined , allow to " Soak " for a few minutes note any dry areas then re apply if necessary to wet the surfaces .

A slower curing epoxy is sometimes better suited to these types of repairs , rather than 5 minute stuff !.

Now join surgical tube or clamp . Wipe excess adhesive away , allow full cure time .

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

Bill,
I would also use an epoxy and a slow cure one like Dr K. suggested. If you are concerned about the finish, I would carefully apply a coat of paste wax along the surface of the stock right up to the break. Make sure that you do not get any in the wood in the break area. Test the fit of the piece to see if it is going to be an invisibile fit. Sometimes fibers can be dislodged that do not allow the pieces to match up together. Then glue and make sure the surface of at least one is coated well and wrap with surgical tubing. You do not need a lot of epoxy to make the joint work and excess will just create more cleanup but you do need it in the total surface. You will not be able to clean under the tubing after the epoxy oozes out but it will come off the wax coat easily with light pressure from a thumb nail.

Sometimes with a chip as you described, it will want to move away from the original location under the pressure from the tubing. It may be better to glue it up with the stock in place and use the receiver as a stop for movement. Use wax as a bond release on the receiver for errant epoxy. The receive will provide a forward anchoring place and also allow you to change the direction of the tubing and line it up at 90 degrees to the top of the part, if this is necessary.

Customstox's wax guard/release agent is good.

Vinegar (mild acetic acid) will dissolve and clean up any stray epoxy while it is still soft, before hardening.

I don't think that will harm any finish on the stock. You can even drink the stuff or put it on your turnip greens for eatin'.

When I get epoxy on my hands, I splash a little table vinegar on my hands over the sink and rinse it off with soap and water. Or wet a paper towel with vinegar and wipe it off.

Straight out of chapter one of Bubbasmithing 101:

"Smear that chip with 5-minute epoxy, slap it in place, wipe it down with vinegar and hold it in place with your epoxy free hands until it sets. Refinish later only if customer is not satisfied with the quick fix."

All excellent advice . I normally wear Nitrile gloves or latex even vinyl gloves work for epoxy .

I'm glad Customstox remembered about using wax as a release as I had forgot to mention that aspect of repairing .

Doing them and remembering what to tell someone else about doing them are two different things .

Now if the Heat wave let's up , I want to get in a little range time before it really starts heating up !. it was 109 at my place today !!.

I do feel for our troops over in the sand box , full gear 114-122 , they're GROSSLY UNDERPAID !.

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

quote:

Originally posted by Dr.K:
Now if the Heat wave let's up , I want to get in a little range time before it really starts heating up !. it was 109 at my place today !!.

I do feel for our troops over in the sand box , full gear 114-122 , they're GROSSLY UNDERPAID !.

It was 113 here at War Eagle yesterday - supposed to be 108 today. Luckily we are not in up armor here in the base right now. Another month we will be pushing 130 on a regular basis.

i'd use regular accraglas (not the gel) and when you're done and clamped wipe off the excess with a rag wet with vinegar. no glue line to clean up that way

Properly applied Elmers is much stronger than most believe..