Inletting advice

04 June 2013, 09:36

loiblb

Inletting advice

I just received a very fine stock I ordered from a stock maker. The walnut is tight grained and heavily figured aaa grade he called it. The action is 90% inletted for a fine little 1910 Mexican mauser I had rebarrled in 7x57. I need a little advice on inletting this stock. I have done one once before just by luck it worked out

04 June 2013, 09:44

Dennis Earl Smith

Purchase Dave Wesbrook's book Professional Stockmaking. This book not only has descriptions of how to inlet a stock, but exactingly explicit pictures of the descriptions. It is so much faster than typing and lasts longer too.

04 June 2013, 17:25

Jim Kobe

Good advice Dennis!!

04 June 2013, 17:42

D Humbarger

Just always remember that you can ALWAYS take out a bit more wood but you can't put any back.
Go slow & be patient. Inlet the trigger guard first & use action inletting screws to keep the barreled action & the trigger guard in alignment.

04 June 2013, 19:11

matt salm

File a draft on metal parts to be inletted like the triggerguard. The deeper you go, the tigher it all gets and it's easier to get a clean inlet...that's what an uncle taught me and I've found it to work very well.

04 June 2013, 21:10

dpcd

Inletting black and very sharp chisels, made for fine work, not the ones from your local hardware store. And as stated, go slowly; you will get a feel for it. Watch the grain and always control your chisels; never push one that you do not have control of when it stops.

04 June 2013, 22:36

slivers

quote:
Originally posted by Dennis Earl Smith:
Purchase Dave Wesbrook's book Professional Stockmaking. This book not only has descriptions of how to inlet a stock, but exactingly explicit pictures of the descriptions. It is so much faster than typing and lasts longer too.

And the best part is, it's back in print. Amazon.....

05 June 2013, 00:27

larrys

As Chic Worthing once told me..."If you don't have the patience to look at dust, scrape one shaving at a time and check for fit 100 times before it is right, just call someone." That has worked for the few I have done for myself.

05 June 2013, 01:05

jÃ¸rgen

quote:
Originally posted by D Humbarger:
Just always remember that you can ALWAYS take out a bit more wood but you can't put any back.
Go slow & be patient. Inlet the trigger guard first & use action inletting screws to keep the barreled action & the trigger guard in alignment.

Why inlet the triggerguard first.
For the first few hundred riflestocks i did by hand, from blanks, i always sawed the silhuetshape by a bandsaw. Then Draw the centerline, inletted the barreled action. Drilled holes for the screws, and used 2 guidepins for guiding the triggerguard.
After inletting, i mesured drop, cast off and toe out. Installed the recoilpad.
Then i only had to shape the outercontours between the action and the recoilpad. Growing lazy, i alvays used the bandsaw to remowe as mutch Wood as possible.
For the final contouring i used mostly "surform" tools, and Sharp cutting "carbody" or alu files. They cut, without compressing the Wood.

Sanding was roughed with inflatable rotating cylindrical dewices. Finish sanding was done with high rev sandingmashines (first an elictrical Rockwell. Later with a pneumatic Nito Kochi Free sander FS100c)
Checkering was done by hand for the guidelines, and by a mmc for the filling out.

Avarage productiontime for a standard riflestock, was 6-10 hrs, for better quality 10-16hrs.

Later i grew more lazy, and invested in copying routers, and cnc for inletting, then the productiontime was reduced to 1½ hrs pr stock. Sawn, inletted, contoured sanded checkered and oiled

05 June 2013, 03:20

ramrod340

quote:
For the first few hundred riflestocks i did by hand, from blanks, i always sawed the silhuetshape by a bandsaw. Then Draw the centerline, inletted the barreled action. Drilled holes for the screws, and used 2 guidepins for guiding the triggerguard.

For me there is a large difference in inletting a blank from scratch and inletting a 90% inletted blank. the 90% gives very little room for error. So like they said go SLOW you can always take off more.

06 June 2013, 20:08

Mike Ray

just inletted a curly maple stock a little different than usual. an old timer told me that he liked to inlet the receiver before it was barreled. I tried it just because! worked a little easier seems to me.

07 June 2013, 03:52

custombolt

quote:
Originally posted by jÃ¸rgen:
quote:
Originally posted by D Humbarger:
Just always remember that you can ALWAYS take out a bit more wood but you can't put any back.
Go slow & be patient. Inlet the trigger guard first & use action inletting screws to keep the barreled action & the trigger guard in alignment.

Why inlet the triggerguard first.
For the first few hundred riflestocks i did by hand, from blanks, i always sawed the silhuetshape by a bandsaw. Then Draw the centerline, inletted the barreled action. Drilled holes for the screws, and used 2 guidepins for guiding the triggerguard.
After inletting, i mesured drop, cast off and toe out. Installed the recoilpad.
Then i only had to shape the outercontours between the action and the recoilpad. Growing lazy, i alvays used the bandsaw to remowe as mutch Wood as possible.
For the final contouring i used mostly "surform" tools, and Sharp cutting "carbody" or alu files. They cut, without compressing the Wood.

Sanding was roughed with inflatable rotating cylindrical dewices. Finish sanding was done with high rev sandingmashines (first an elictrical Rockwell. Later with a pneumatic Nito Kochi Free sander FS100c)
Checkering was done by hand for the guidelines, and by a mmc for the filling out.

Avarage productiontime for a standard riflestock, was 6-10 hrs, for better quality 10-16hrs.

Later i grew more lazy, and invested in copying routers, and cnc for inletting, then the productiontime was reduced to 1½ hrs pr stock. Sawn, inletted, contoured sanded checkered and oiled

90 minutes to completion? I can't imagine that. Sorry. A picture is worth a thousand words.

07 June 2013, 18:01

Jim Kobe

quote:
Originally posted by custombolt:
quote:
Originally posted by jÃ¸rgen:
quote:
Originally posted by D Humbarger:
Just always remember that you can ALWAYS take out a bit more wood but you can't put any back.
Go slow & be patient. Inlet the trigger guard first & use action inletting screws to keep the barreled action & the trigger guard in alignment.

Why inlet the triggerguard first.
For the first few hundred riflestocks i did by hand, from blanks, i always sawed the silhuetshape by a bandsaw. Then Draw the centerline, inletted the barreled action. Drilled holes for the screws, and used 2 guidepins for guiding the triggerguard.
After inletting, i mesured drop, cast off and toe out. Installed the recoilpad.
Then i only had to shape the outercontours between the action and the recoilpad. Growing lazy, i alvays used the bandsaw to remowe as mutch Wood as possible.
For the final contouring i used mostly "surform" tools, and Sharp cutting "carbody" or alu files. They cut, without compressing the Wood.

Sanding was roughed with inflatable rotating cylindrical dewices. Finish sanding was done with high rev sandingmashines (first an elictrical Rockwell. Later with a pneumatic Nito Kochi Free sander FS100c)
Checkering was done by hand for the guidelines, and by a mmc for the filling out.

Avarage productiontime for a standard riflestock, was 6-10 hrs, for better quality 10-16hrs.

Later i grew more lazy, and invested in copying routers, and cnc for inletting, then the productiontime was reduced to 1½ hrs pr stock. Sawn, inletted, contoured sanded checkered and oiled
90 minutes to completion? I can't imagine that. Sorry. A picture is worth a thousand words.

Ayyuup! Kinda hard to imagine! I guess that would put the price of a custom stock, less the wood, at about $110???