I have a barrelled mauser action wih a shot out barrel and I want to play.

Are there any tricks to removing the barrel? I have the tools but can't get the barrell to break loose (barrel slips and yes I have a barrell vice and a reciever wrench).

Do any of you have any hints?

I don't think I should heat the receiver because I'm afraid of ruining the hardness of the reciever. Is this likely?

do I clamp the barrell down as tight as I can (to the point of compressing the barrell)and keep using bigger and bigger cheater bars on the receiver wrench until either the reciever twists or the barrell comes off??

all help is appreciated

If using the wood blocks that come with the vice from Midway.....give up and save your frustration...if using the steel blocks and a proper bushing from Brownell's...maybe buy a bag of rosin to sticky things up...Worked for me!! Ask me how I know the wood won't work!! I learn most things the hard way

Mike

P.S. your local sporting goods store should have pitchers rosin bags pretty cheap.

------------------
Victory Through Superior Firepower!

[This message has been edited by ready_on_the_right (edited 05-22-2002).]

I second the comment on Mid Way's vise.

No tricks to barrel removal, just use the correct equipment. I will email a photo to you of a vise and wrench system that works. I made it over 30 years ago, never had a barrel slip, even those tight Enfields. And I can remove and install a blued or bead blasted barrel with out marking the finish.

I made this post to see if my password still worked. What luck!

------------------
Currently in Exile on the Beautiful Olympic Peninsula of Washington State.

Email Address is rifles@earthlink.net

Web site http://home.earthlink.net/~rifles/

[This message has been edited by John Ricks (edited 05-22-2002).]

rockhead

I had a very difficult barrel a while back. And as mentined above, the wood inserts of the Midway vise just don't cut it. Here's how I got around it.

Cut the old barrel off leaving about a 2" stub. Grind a flat on the side of the stub about 3/16" deep. remove the bottom wood insert. Clamp the stub in the vise so the flat is in the bottom of the vise against the steel of the vicse and the top wood insert is pushing it down. Apply the action wrench in the usual way. The flat gave me enough bite to break the barrel loose. Besides this, submerse the threaded area in kroil for a couple days before trying.

rockhead--

If you aren't going to save the old barrel--

Attach the action wrench and lay the whole works on the floor. Now engage a pipe wrench an the barrel with the handle suspended several inches off the floor. Stand on the action wrench handle and stomp on the pipe wrench handle. There's never been one in my shop in 35 years that didn't break loose on the first try.

If you want to save the barrel but don't mind some scuffing-----

Dust both barrel vice jaws with powdered rosin then lay a strip of 180 aluminum oxide polishing cloth in the jaws with the grit towards the barrel. Tighten everything down tight (barrel vice, not action wrench), don't worry about collapsing the barrel....(I use a 12 ton hydraulic jack with a 3 foot handle as a barrel vice tightner.) and HIT the action wrench handle with something big and hard. Shock will loosen quicker than a long handle.

If properly fitted, using the front of the receiver ring and the inner ring equally, a M98 barrel doesn't have to be NEARLY as tight as most militarys are.

Hey thanks for all the hints you guys

I'll get that bugger off this weekend and it will be away to the races.....

Rochhead: I had one on a M48 that would not give up. used vise blocks action wrenches two types. what worked to remove this barrel was to cut a relief cut where the secondary torque sholder and the receiver come togeather, about 1/16" deep with a hack saw maybe a little deeper.with the action clamped in a vise and anchored to a bench, lightly heated the front receiver ring. with a 18" pipe wrench and a 4' cheater bar. pour cold water on the barrel and apply pressure with the wrench. when it starts to move do not stop until the barrel is out,
Dave

Hey there,
THought I would offer a little bit of info on this. Like said in previous posts it depends on whether your keeping or tossing the barrel. If you are keeping it, go the Brownell, bushing, blocks etc. way. If you tossing it, I have a quick fix.

I use a heavy pipe wrench on the barrel and a home made action wrench. I made if for less then 2 bucks. Tighten the wrench on the action using some heavy leather as protection layer and lay it on the ground. Use the pipe wrench to remove the barrel. Here is a pic of my wrench.

Just the way I do it.

JAG

These are awfully "Strong arm" ways to skin the cat. For sure get some rosin. If the wood blocks fit the barrel they work great. Use spotting compound to get good contact between the blocks and the barrel. If it really, really spins, rosin and all, epozy the blocks to the barrel. Remove the epoxy by heating the barrel after. If you have one that absolutely refuses to budge......

1. lean on the wrench and wack with a hammer. This is how an impact wrench works and will usually break it loose.

2. Remove the shoulder of the barrel in a lathe. I will come of super easy, won't even need a wrench in most cases. There is nothing left to make it tight. : )

I personally get real nervious about pipe wrenches, grinding flats, cheater bars etc. You are risking damaging your receiver. You should not need to force anything. Use your head and not your muscles. It is a good axiom for life in general.

You know what they say about skinning cats...

JAG

If the barrel is to be thrown away use a 24" pipe wrench on it. the barrel will not slip.

------------------
Doug Humbarger
NRA Life member

scot---

The topic Mauser barrels .

Mauser military barrels dont bear on the front of the receiver ring, only the inner. They can be a bear.

P.S. I had some very much appreciated help via E-mail from Mr. Ricks!! I'm glad he is a patient man

Mike

------------------
Victory Through Superior Firepower!