Mauser DGR Revisited

15 January 2002, 08:14

N'gagi

Thanks for everybodies advice on my .458 stock. I'm sticking with walnut.

I have a few questions about odds and ends.

We have the action done, and the Shilen barrel mounted. We are planning to shoot it from a testing vice before we go any further. If everything goes fine, I was planning on ordering:

1) Trigger guard PAB #684-098-100 ($69)
2) Timney Featherweight Deluxe #883-500-298($77)
3) Floor Plate PAB #684-098-100 ($24)
4) Barrel Band for Swivel Tally ($29)

As I mentioned before, I'm looking at a classic type Safari rifle. Any comments on these items before I order them, and any suggestions regarding the express sights?

Finally, a silly question, but what would you all do with the bolt handle?

15 January 2002, 11:29

Bill Soverns

I would call Ted Blackburn for the bottom metal and the trigger. For Mausers his work is, in my opinion, the BEST. I use his triggers exclusively on my rifles.

15 January 2002, 11:49

Customstox

I agree with Bill. The trigger guard and floor plate you listed is aluminum as is the floor plate. The floor plate also has a very cheesy antelope cast into the surface. Not exactly what you want in a classic safari Rifle, nor is the aluminum. The box also is designed for an 06 case. Get a good one and expect to pay something for it. Jim Wisener is as good as Blackburn too, Precise Metalsmithing Enterprises.

The trigger you specified has a safety. What is on your Mauser? Again go with a 2 position on the original bolt shroud or a 3 position.

Chic Worthing

15 January 2002, 11:58

N'gagi

They have no trigger guards or plates in stock, thank goodness. You saved me the trouble of sending it back or re-selling it.

Glad I asked the questions and glad you answered!

15 January 2002, 14:21

DeBee

The Timney trigger has an aluminum housing too. If it is torqued down too much it could break... Do you need a really light trigger pull on a .458?

I'd opt for the military trigger modified to a one stage and slip in a "polished pin" made from a nail throught the trigger spring to control overtravel if you are mechanically inclined. Or, you are calling Blackburn in the morning for his trigger and bottom metal...

You owe it to yourself to go first class on a DGR project you'll avoid pain and disappointment later.

15 January 2002, 17:39

<Mike Dettorre>

With respect to sights...

NECG, Precision Metalsmithing and there are a couple of other three leaf sights.

I could never understand a three leaf sight on a DGR gun which has a scope. If the scope is off, I believ all you need is one leaf set 50 yds. Have POI about 1" high and you will likeley be within 1.25 inches out to 150 yds. I don't think you will be shooting your DGR beyond 150 with iron sights.

------------------
MED

The sole purpose of a rifle is to please its owner

17 January 2002, 12:32

TGetzen

W/ regard to rear sights -- the Dakota island + fixed leaf is pretty cheap (less than $50) and looks nice. NECG will set you back two or three times that amount. Their band front sight is slick though.

You may find that fitting a non-tapered barrel band is a major PIA, so perhaps you should take a look at the London Guns band swivel too... it does require a bit of polishing though.

Todd

17 January 2002, 12:41

Paul H

quote:
Originally posted by DeBee:
The Timney trigger has an aluminum housing too. If it is torqued down too much it could break... Do you need a really light trigger pull on a .458?
I'd opt for the military trigger modified to a one stage and slip in a "polished pin" made from a nail throught the trigger spring to control overtravel if you are mechanically inclined. Or, you are calling Blackburn in the morning for his trigger and bottom metal...
You owe it to yourself to go first class on a DGR project you'll avoid pain and disappointment later.

I re-worked the mil trigger on my 35 whelen ackley, just because I like simple dependable triggers on hunting rifles.

Mine is still a 2-stage, I polished the trigger, sear and pins, put in a lighter trigger return spring, and drilled and tapped the trigger return spring housing so that a 6-32 screw rides in the center of the spring, and provides an adjustable overtravel. Locktight or epoxy in place once adjusted.

Now that I'm putting the whelen in a piece of walnut, I'm also seeing the need for a barrel band swivel, and iron sights. I'm putting an NECG barrel band up front, and a sweat on marbles in the rear, using the patridge front, and square rear. I'd like a ghost ring rear, but can't afford the scope base w/ integral peep, and just don't see carrying a screw on rear sight base, I shoot std irons well enough, and figure the iron sights should be independent of the scope base.

17 January 2002, 18:33

DeBee

I'm working out a similar sight solution on my winter (probably spring too) project- the FN Mauser resurrection...

The Marbles rear sight is available with a 1" radius which will fit the step barrel perfectly- I like the square notch too. I'll probably go with it instead of express sights. It's all steel and about $25...

Is there a scope base with an integral peep being currently manufactured? I know the Warne was discontinued- I really liked those.

And, who makes a patridge front sight for the standard 3/8" dovetail? Am I going to have to start hitting a fat bead sight with the files???