I broke the extractor on my 7.62x54r barrelled Siamese Mauser some time back, picked up a new one ( second hand -thanks Tony), fitted it and put it away. Now, several years later, I'm finally getting around to finishing it off and I find the new extractor has a thinner tip than the old one and there is a gap of about 1/2 a millimetre or so between the extractor hook and the case. It will feed but only extract about half way before letting go of the case, not a problem with the original extractor.
Now the question becomes, can the hook be built up and how ??

Roger

No idea how much a millimetre is but you can TIG weld it and fit it.
Or you can make an entirely new cals and hard solder it on.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
No idea how much a millimetre is but you can TIG weld it and fit it.
Or you can make an entirely new cals and hard solder it on.

Come now Tom as a tank man you will know some of your Abrams M1A1 tanks were equipped with a 120mm smoothbore so 1mm is 120th the diameter of the Abrams barrel. I'm sure you can relate to that

Actually started on 105, M68A1 Cannon, on the M60A1 tank. All M1A1s are 120, and we sold many of them to AUS and my office in TACOM helped with the fielding. Everything in tank gunnery, is in meters, and mils, which is one meter at 1000 meters.
Map reading too.
It's the re thing....

What if you heated your extractor claw to cherry red and bent it inward a half mm or so? Then, quench it and draw it back to straw or blue.

I would remove the extractor and closely examine the collar that it (the extractor) fastens to. If it looked possible, I'd remove a bit at a time until the extractor had the proper relationship with the bolt face. Second thought might be to examine the slot on the back of the extractor and see if it might be extended to proper distance.

quote:

Originally posted by slivers:
I would remove the extractor and closely examine the collar that it (the extractor) fastens to. If it looked possible, I'd remove a bit at a time until the extractor had the proper relationship with the bolt face. Second thought might be to examine the slot on the back of the extractor and see if it might be extended to proper distance.

The collar doesn't control the position of the extractor. The groove in the bolt body just ahead of the locking lugs does that.
So to do that you would probably still have to weld, and then make clearance for the locking lug as well.

quote:

Originally posted by Peter Connan:

quote:

Originally posted by slivers:
I would remove the extractor and closely examine the collar that it (the extractor) fastens to. If it looked possible, I'd remove a bit at a time until the extractor had the proper relationship with the bolt face. Second thought might be to examine the slot on the back of the extractor and see if it might be extended to proper distance.

The collar doesn't control the position of the extractor. The groove in the bolt body just ahead of the locking lugs does that.
So to do that you would probably still have to weld, and then make clearance for the locking lug as well.

You are correct!