If you drop back 10% from max loads you can at least double the numbers.
Don
Cleaning methods are important; you want to get your barrel clean without damage. The methods differ greatly; IMHO, you should NEVER put a metal bristled brush down a fine bore. Some folks will disagree, I'm sure. I clean as follows: 1 patch, literally dripping with Hoppe's #9, straight out the muzzle. Remove the patch--this will sweep the loose fouling from the bore. Remove rod, and wipe down. Next, a tight patch with Sweet's, one minute working through the bore, last pass out of the muzzle. Remove and wipe. Dry patch to remove the Sweet's, check and clean chamber and lug recesses, too. Then finally, use one oil saturated patch, through the bore 3-4 times, followed by two dry patches. Done deal.
Make sure to use a bore guide, too. Remember--YOU CAN RUIN YOUR RIFLE WITH THE FIRST CLEANING IF YOU DON'T USE A BORE GUIDE. Get a good one, too-don't scrimp.
As for reloading, it is my understanding that ball-type powder burns cooler, and cleaner than extruded. Extruded powders in hot loadings blast away at the all important leade, or throat, causing erosion. More importantly, regardless of what powder you use, stay away from the full throttle loads. My .220 Swift, for example, is easily capable of breaking 4100 fps. Why bother? I do not load faster than 3600-3700.
Firing technique is perhaps the most important. You can have the best cleaning technique, and use the finest components, but it won't be worth a tinker's damn if you machine gun rounds through your bore. 3-5 minutes betweens rounds, during break-in, and then no more than 3 round groups, 2 minutes between rounds, 10 minutes between groups. Want to rapid fire? Buy an AR-15 with a chrome barrel. They're built for it.
Take your time, and good luck! Your barrels will last a lifetime if they are well cared for.
------------------
Happiness is a 200 yard bughole.
The numbers I gave were estimates based on NRA long range practice. These guys load as hot as they can stand, as velocity works out to less windage. I looked at all that and decided I could use a 308 Win and suffer the wind!
Also, different rifles act differently with long throats (the throats erode out, the rest of the barrel is good for several thousand rounds.) You can usually re-polish the rough throat once and restore pretty good performance. If the chamber is perfectly concentric you can keep MOA average for maybe 1500 rounds on the 6.5-06.
Your mileage may vary - a lot!
I still want to build a 6.5-06 someday.
Don
------------------
Safety & Ethics,Accuracy, Velocity, Energy
Joe M
Very slow powders can have a 'shot blasting' effect on the throat and hotter burning powders (read double base) can have a detrimental effect. Likewise heavier and hence longer bullets with more bearing surface produce more friction and heat.
I see I disagree with Powderman re ball powders vs extruded and effect on throat erosion. My understanding is ball = double base = more heat = bad.
Whatever the theory, I know of a reputable custom gun smith in the UK who swears customers using Varget etc halve the lives of their barrels. In one case a .308 went from 5000 rounds barrel life (at match rifle loads) with N150 (single base) to 1,500 rounds barrel life with N550 (double base.
Wihtavuori swear they have tested exhaustively and found no clear difference.
Nothings ever cut and dried in this life. Enjoy your 6.5 for what you bought it for and if it wears out too soon rebarrel it for another of the excellent 6.5s that last a bit longer.If you didn't buy it for ultimate velocity and are merely using it as .270 alternative then if you don't load it to the brim with the slowest powders I don't see why you shouldn't get .270 type barrel life - I don't hear many complaints about them.
[This message has been edited by 1894 (edited 05-11-2001).]